Block heat dead...
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Joined: Nov 2006
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Block heat dead...
Had the block heater calve on me at some point over the past couple of days. It has been hovering around minus 30 and the 2000 7.3 won't even consider starting right now. What is the best replacement plug-in heater. I was told that the magnetic heater would be enough and I tried that. That was a waste of time. I just didn't want to be laying in the snow at minus 30 trying to change a block heater. Now that it is a little warmer, I can consider it. I am wondering though about the in-line hose heaters as an alternative to the block heater. If the block heater is the way to go, can someone save me some time in the cold to explain a how-to? The only other block heat I've changed was on a 1970 GTO about 25 years ago.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,292
Likes: 6
From: Ardenvoir, Washington
I ran across a " pan heater" you might be interested in.. Sounds easy to install.. check out: http://www.intellidog.com/dieselmann/catalog.htm Also, before replacing the heater, i would check out your plug. Cut the plug off and strip the wires and check for resistance with a ohm meter. If it is open, it is N/G
Last edited by clintbonnie; Nov 30, 2006 at 04:05 PM.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 376
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From: South Dakota
Have you double checked the cord. Very common problem with the heater. I haven't had to replace the heating element just the cord, however it screws in just above the oil filter. I think you will lose some antifreeze, so I would quickly pull the old one out and put in the good one. Ford sells the the bock heater kit for around $40. I had to buy the kit to get the cord because they did not have the cord in stock at the time. The part number on the box is 3500043, the Navistar p/n I have for the element is 18144323c1 and Ford p/n is F7TZ-6A051-AA and the cord F81Z-6B018-AA.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,438
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From: New Hampshire
Ditto on the cord....had to replace my cord because it went open at the block heater connection. The rubberized orange coating is supposed to prevent the
cord from a fatigue failure due to the shaking from the motor. An ohmmeter check should show 15 ohms across the two heating element prongs.
Nut
cord from a fatigue failure due to the shaking from the motor. An ohmmeter check should show 15 ohms across the two heating element prongs.
Nut
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,767
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I did a quick search on http://www.powerstrokeshop.com/of the part numbers provided by nodakford:
Part Number: 1C3Z6B018AA List Price Core Price Your Price
WIR ASY ENG BLK HTR $64.57 $0.00 $47.65
Part Number: F7TZ6A051AA List Price Core Price Your Price
HTR ASY-ENG BLOCK $35.73 $0.00 $26.37
Part Number: 1C3Z6B018AA List Price Core Price Your Price
WIR ASY ENG BLK HTR $64.57 $0.00 $47.65
Part Number: F7TZ6A051AA List Price Core Price Your Price
HTR ASY-ENG BLOCK $35.73 $0.00 $26.37
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