2001 F250 V10, approx 50K miles - one right side manifold nut broke off causing a small (but noisey) leak. Part of threads still there but looks too small to put another bolt on and tighten.

Dealer quote over $300 to fix (with stainless steel hardware) if the manifold is not warped, over $700 if it is.

Does this seem right? A bit pricey for one small nut isn't it?

 

YES...pricey that is for sure! But...it does take lots of work to get at it...and I am willing to bet that the manifold will be warped. Not by much, but will probably need to be planed.

Good luck...

biz

 

I would have them change all the studs/nuts. The $300 is mostly labor. I had both manifolds done. One side cost about $600-700 and the other side was about $1000 ( that side had a warped header.) The factory studs aren't the greatest. I had extra labor on the warped side because more than one of the studs had broken off. The mechanic said they had seen this before with superdutys. They were also familar with the failing balljoints

 

Would dealerships plane or simply replace? I ask because one I deal with is famous for finding ways to jack repair work to their advantage. Wondering if I should consider a non-dealership type shop. Thanks

 

At the dealership I work at we send the manifolds to a machine shop for planing as long as it's not too bad.

 

Stainless headers on ebay look pretty cheap. Anyone ever ditch the old manifolds for those and run dual exhaust? Would that require a new tune? (I have Harleys and they generally need retuning when exhausts are changed)

 

harleys didn't have o2 sensers. 1 each side before and 1or 2 after the cat or cats.. we do remove on a car or truck and it won't run right. the sensers most be in place. also the stock cats don't hurt performance on dyno runs. i have found they help.

and to add a new FI'd harley is the same. major chageing to the emission system and fuel injection when the pipes are opened up. and the 08 you won't be able to tamper with them at all due to the motor needing a cat converter to met the laws.

 

Very interesting turn of events.

Ford Dealer #1 - price range best case scenario a little over $300. Worst case just over $700.

Ford Dealer #2, no best case scenario price (tells me it's "very" labor intensive), worst case scenario (including a printed parts list) over $2000.

Independant shop, recommended by many, best case about $250, worst case about $350 - $400. Said the local Ford dealers often bring them in their manifold leakers.

Anyone wonder Admin note: see our guidelines about language I am going to take my vehicle to?

 

Been there and just did the job last month. Had everything possible happen along the way. I had around $150 in the job by the time I was done, tools and all. I only did one side and the other will be less now that I have the tools and know how. I don't recommend doing this unless you got time and patience and you don't want to replace just one, for if your going to pull the manifold you might as well replace them all. I have the same , '01 F250, though I didn't get alot of noise until four of mine broke. If you have someone do it be sure of who you pick because I did my homework on this, asked alot of questions, and saw some shoddy work. I usually noticed it was the rear studs that broke the most and some sloppy drilling/tapping by garages just to quiet it down and send people on their way. It's because of that I chose to do it myself. As for the warped head I wouldn't be to concerned. I laid mine on a piece of glass and checked it with a feeler gauge and although it wasn't perfect it was definitly tolerable. I recommend going with the after market manifold gasket vs. Ford's. Not only for the price(less than 1/2) but I also read the aftermarket is made to accept more imperfection than the Ford OEM which is installed with newly machined manifolds and heads. If you do decide to do it feel free to ask questions because this is what got me through it. I had it all from broken easy outs and drill bits to bloody knuckles and if you do it I'll put it like another guy said "I feel your pain man"

 

Job completed by the independent shop. All studs replaced with stainless and upgrades the gaskets and nuts. Out the door for $300. Not bad, considering.

Thanks for the help rcevans and all!

 

Mine is in the shop as i am typing this to get both sides done. So far my parts alone are about $375 plus labour. This shop had a guy come in and weld with some fancy rod onto the studs and then they grip that bead of weld and work the stud right out. i had 4 that were broken right off inside and the got them out as well. I will update when i get it back. BTW i had to ge this done as i just picked up the truck and needed to get the saftey done for it.

 

I agree, OEM studs, nuts, gaskets alone are over $200 not to mention what you'll go through in shop tools if there rusted badly or broke recessed. Check around on your parts prices for things will vary from dealer to dealer. I chose to use stainless bolts/washers with anti sieze compound, pretty much like you'd mount a header. 75 cents for a bolt/washer sure beats $8 for a stud/nut combo.

 

Well all done not the cheapest method but by far seems the best and easiest. I had 4 that were broke off into the head and 4 others that brok just over flush when the shop was removing the manifold. All told the repair was about $1100 can. but i beilive it was they way to go. When i get a cance i will post some pics of the studs with the ***** of weld stuck to the end of them.