When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Only problem I can see is that at least up here in the northern climate, the plastic coating tends to crack and they start to rust, actually had the ones on my 91 ranger rust through and break.
It's not just a northern problem, I had both break on my 83 Ranger(a southern truck) with myself and my Uncle on the tailgate lifting a 350# toolbox. That took some fancy footwork to keep us and the box off of the floor.
Jeff
My FIL broke one on his truck when he overloaded the tailgate with bags of concrete mix, but to paraphrase, I don't expect classics like ours to be used to haul concrete on the tailgate either. They were designed to be easily disconnected to drop the tailgate for heavy loading.
Thanks guys, I know the type you are talking about. If I remember right my 83 F-150 had cable tailgate straps.
I had a neat idea but it wouldn't work on my truck. It would work better on the 51 and up trucks with the square stake pockets, and especially the later years where the tailgate actually covered the stake pocket when closed. You could design a cable and pulley set-up that was hidden within the stake pocket itself. When the tailgate was closed the cable would retract into the pocket leaving a nice clean exterior.
Nice Job on the tailgate Bobby. I think you tailgate is from a 51 to 52 truck as your origonal brackets are below the top roll and not inside of it. I like the idea of the top latches you are making. Are you going to incorporate them into the top roll? That would look great as there would not be any thing looking out of place. We have straightened several tailgates in the same condition as what yours was in. I used a piece of 3/4" round rod and got it through the roll and supported it on some blocks on the work bench and then just worked the metal out with a body hammer. The dents just disappear. Then work on the dents in the tailgate, in a few hrs it will look like new again.
I have added a few pictures of what I am starting with for My Merc Tailgate. I will take some pictures as we work on it this week.
Don
I never gave it a second thought but you're right, my latches were mounted under the roll so it had to have come from a later truck and it does look like the color is a bit different (hard to tell under all the layers) Yeah, the latches will press into the top roll for a nice clean look.
I'll have to try your method on my bedsides. I have a few dents in them. Do you use heat? or just beat the tar out of it? I can't wait to see your progress on your tailgate. If its half as good as the rest of your work it will still be gorgeous.
Don't use heat unless you want to shrink out a stretch! Are you trying to get out dents in the flat panels or in the top roll? If it's the top roll, grind the rod end to a nice smooth bullet shape before driving it thru the roll.
Don, is the "Mercury" plate a separate piece? Spot welded in?
Ax, Yes The mercury stamped plate is seperate, but they are real hard to find I found this one on U-Pay and got it for the buy it now price. The pics he had were a bit better than what the tailgate is like. It seems to be a bit rougher than in the picture he had on U-pay. But it can be fixed.
I have Merc tailgate for a 51 to 52 also, the MERCURY is stamped into the center panel on that one though. It was in about the same shape as this one is but it looks like new now.
Don
I should have looked at the pics again before I posted my last comment. Once again my mouth (or fingers on keyboard) started working before my brain.
After going back and looking at Don's pics I see what you mean AX. Thats a clever way to make the Mercury gates without having to completey retool everything
The Plate in the center of the tailgate that says MERCURY looks like it is a separate piece that was attached thru a cutout in the panel? I was wondering if they used the FORD tailgate stamping and cut out the FORD and installed the MERCURY plate.
The dents in the flat panels will be the more difficult repair. It's likely they are stretched dents from things sliding around in the bed. If so you will need to heat shrink them to reduce the surface area of the panel before doing much hammering. Are you familiar with the difference between "on dolly" and "off dolly" work and when to use each? If the dents are shallow and numerous, and you have or can borrow a 7" or larger angle grinder, a shrinking disk would be a worthwhile investment.
Bobby, a suggestion: rather than filling all those relief cuts in the angle, I would cut off all the tabs flush and cut 1 curved piece of sheet stock same thickness as angle stock to match the radius and weld it in place of the tabs. Much easier to make 1 weld at each end and along the edge than fitting and welding in all those little triangles and grinding them flat. Make a cardstock pattern with a kid's school compass. Same method can be used to form a tight curve in channel or square tubing, some carefull fitting and grinding will make everyone wonder how you bent it like that.
My thoughts exactly. You obviously have the fab/welding skills to do it, and it will keep the metal distortion down too.
Mark me down as impressed Bobby. It looks great. Do you do leading too by any chance?
You could design a cable and pulley set-up that was hidden within the stake pocket itself. When the tailgate was closed the cable would retract into the pocket leaving a nice clean exterior.
Thanks again
Bobby
Bobby, have you been reading my mind? I was walking around my 53 the other day and that thought exactly struck me when trying to figure out a way to get rid of the chains. A long lightweight spring attached to the end of the cable in the stake pocket would help things along as well.
Jeff
On an early version of my tailgate, I made a hidden cable that retracted into the post socket to restrain it. It turned out that the post socket was too narrow to get even a 1/16" cable to do a turn in it, however, I was able to get rope to do it. I used a small pulley and a heavy fishing weight to pull it down (retract) into the post socket. It worked fine and looked cool, but was too light duty to carry any real weight on the gate, so I went to 1/8" plastic-covered cables, like more modern ones.
Maybe one of you guys can design a better mouse trap.
That's slick. The tailgate looks great, and I think your latches are awesome. Don't forget to spray a little white lithium in 'em before they're sealed up for good, and they'll never die.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.