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Hey guys. I'm finally to the stage where I need to make a decision on power window kits. Does anyone have a good company to suggest. I've seen so many with varying prices. I want quality and switches that don't look generic, but I want a good price as well.
Also... I take it that installing power windows will replace the old crank mechanism? What did someone do with the hole left?
Very important. Do I wait to measure for new glass after I install the kit and anti-rattle stuff?
I appreciate any and all suggestions. The more the merrier.:-X12
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 08-May-02 AT 02:45 AM (EST)]James,
I am working on a "trick" switch, which utilizes the orginal window cranks, it involves a cam welded on to the shaft from the orginal assembly, and by using micro switchs, if you rotate the crank, 1/4 turn clockwise, the window goes up, and if you go 1/4 turn counter-clockwise the window goes down... I will be posting an article complete with pics, when I have perfected it... If your interested
Sorry about that. It's going in a 59 f-250/100 (conversion) custom cab. $250 is a little steep for me. Any other ideas on kits a bit less? (I know you get what you pay for). Someone gave me the suggestion to install the switches overhead in the headliner. That kinda sounds sweet.
So... What about the hole and measurements for glass?
If you are unwilling to spend $250 I suggest you adapt some OEM salvage yard PWs to your truck. You will not get a decent kit with quality switches for that price. If you buy a cheap kit, you will get junk motors you won't be happy with. I have never seen a truly bolt in kit for old Ford trucks. You have to fab brackets no matter what route you choose.
Check out LSHORT's gallery. He has some good pics of the project. I just finished doing it on my 53. $20 worth of boneyard parts and a few hours and mine are in and running.
I didn't mean anything by the $250 post. I've seen kits in mags for around $150-$170. That's kinda what I was asking in regards to their quality.
And if that is the case as for as getting the stuff from a local yard, what are some good donor prospect makes and models?
Those are the first bolt ins I have seen. It looks like roughly $300 with switches. If the motors are strong and the switches decent, that is a good price. I like my Electraglide II kit from Haywire for motor strength and general quality, but bolt in they are not! I did not mean my $250 comment as a slam, I hope you did not take it that way. I just removed a cheap kit with weak motors installed by previous owner and don't want to see you do the same. A buddy of mine adapted late 70s Impala/Caprice PW motors to his 54 Chevy Panel. His dog better not have his head out the window when he hits the UP switch.
I bought the Specialty Power Windows kit for my '59 F-100 Flushside. My glass guy gave me a HUGE tip regarding the install: (obviously with the door panel removed...) take a straight, rigid piece of carpenter's tape (the skinny aluminum stuff with lots of holes in it) and fasten it to the inside of the door. Attach the window regulator (the big piece that raises and lowers the glass) to it. Hook up the power. run the regulator all the way up as high as it will go and all the way down as low as it will go. Mark the spot on the door where the regulator needs to be installed so: (1) it goes all the way up to the top of the door when raised; and (2) it lowers all the way down below the sill so when the window is "down" it's not sticking up and your arm is resting on the top of the window instead of on the door!
He also gave me advice for removing/replacing the division bar: remove all screws, obviously, as well as the felt bars and especially the clips. Open the door. Stand straddling the door with your right arm/hand inside the door and your left arm/hand on the outside of the door. Grab the division bar at the top with both hands. Pull at a 45 degree angle down and back towards you (as though you were pulling the top of the division bar down towards your stomach, if that helps!). Twist the division bar 60-90 degrees until it comes out. Repeat backwards to install new one!
Hope this helps... DS
almost forgot: No, you don't need the old window "cranks" (aka "regulators"), but you will need a new anti-rattle kit if yours needs replacing (and if you're putting in new glass and power windows you owe it to this part of the project to get the kit) and new vent window rubbers. DS
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