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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

carb probs?

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Old Nov 22, 2006 | 06:46 PM
  #1  
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blue97flare
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carb probs?

Ok guys, I have a 84 ranger with a 2.8 that I just got had to rebuild the carb just the other day and now its running really rich on idle the air screws on the front of the carb are 3 turns out from all the way in... heres the other thing I think they kinda did the duraspark to this thing hits it has nothing in it other the a ignition mod on the drivers fender that says WELLS on it but back to my prob after it gets warmed up its hard to start and it idles really rough any ideas ?
 
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Old Nov 23, 2006 | 11:21 AM
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Well it's been awhile sice I've had to think "carbs"!!!!! lol
Have you checked/set the float drop & float level?????

There is a tang on the float, thats close to the hinge piviot point, that bears on the float valve, thats adjustable, to make these two settings.

The drop setting, governs the point that the float needle valve opens, to let the float bowel begin to refill. This prevents the fuel level geting too low & the jets sucking air & causing the mixture to go lean, or it running dry during high demand, or in off level or high "G" maneuvering, ect.

The float level setting, if not correct, will allow the bowl to over fill & spill down the carb throat through the vents & cause the mixture to go rich.

I'd maybe suspect this, or maybe a piece of trash, from the opened lines during change out, has lodged in the float valve seat, such that it can't seal, to shut off fuel flow from the pump, causing the float bowl to overfill & the mixture to go rich.

Seems to me, the needle valves were typically set to approx 1.5 turns open, then tweaked from there. Your new carbs instructions should give you these preset instructions.

Just some oldy moldy memories!!!!!
 
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Old Nov 23, 2006 | 02:12 PM
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well after I lil more work lastnight I figured out what the deal was the main thing was the powervalve was leaking fuel into the vac. side and also when it would set for over 10 mins or so it would leak fuel into the vac. line into the intake and someone flood the thing so also in the mist of all this I figured out I have a diff carb then what was on the truck and last it had a lil vac. leak on the back side where the vac. tree it at now other the valve being a lil loud it runs great !!
 
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Old Nov 23, 2006 | 03:53 PM
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OK, sounds like you have a good grip on your problem now.

Last carb vehicle I've had to fool with, is my 78 3.3L Merc, which is still puttering along.

Thank goodness for computer controlled FI, they start & run MUCH better imo.

BUT the oldy moldys, were more fun to turn a wench on!!!!

On the old 78 Merc 3.3L, I can raise the hood & change the oil & filter from the divers side, WITHOUT having to get under, or raise the vehicle!!!!

Heck I can even sit on the fender, put my feet in the engine bay, to work on it if I have too.

Pull the hood & I can actually see the engine!!!!! Imagine all that!!!!

BUT carbs sure can be finicky at times.

Run good gas in it & maybe a good detergent, like Techron Concentrate Plus, through it every now & then, to keep it happy!!!!
 
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