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grinding from 2nd -3rd

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Old Nov 22, 2006 | 02:45 PM
  #1  
bocephus_3349's Avatar
bocephus_3349
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From: riverton u.s
Question grinding from 2nd -3rd

I have a 93 F-150 4x4 5spd (mazda trans). The only problem I have with the trans is when shifting from 2nd to 3rd i have a slight grind. I have bleed the slave twice thinking I might have a little air in the system, but that didn't help any. The slave was replaced about 8-10 months ago. The mater cyl is the orginal. Can the master be bad and so no outwards sign's of leaking? I think I am going to replace it anyways just to make sure. But has anyone else had any of the same problems with thier tranny?
 
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Old Nov 22, 2006 | 03:37 PM
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jim henderson
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Not a tranny expert, but here are a few ideas.

Could be a synchro getting sloppy. Or a clutch not properly adjusted or worn.

The master may need bleeding too. Not sure if there are internal problems with masters.

With the age of your truck I would bet synchros.

Good Luck,

Jim Henderson
 
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Old Nov 22, 2006 | 04:26 PM
  #3  
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Clubwagon
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Can't bleed the master separately but it could be leaking past the internal seal. But it that were the case it would most likely grind in more than one gear and try to creep at stoplights while holding the pedal down in 1st gear.

There is no adjustment on the clutch in a M5OD.

With what you have told us so far my bet is a worn 3rd gear synchro or shift fork.

Steve
'95 Clubwagon XLT
 
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Old Nov 23, 2006 | 07:09 AM
  #4  
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bocephus_3349
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From: riverton u.s
Well thank for your responces. I just stated the 2nd to 3rd because it is the most likely place it grinds, but it does do it some time through all the gears. Some times it does lurch like when im slowing down to park and have the clutch engaged and in 1st gear it acks like the tranny wants to move the truck and will have to kick it out of gear. So maybe I could be needing some clutch/mc rather than tranny work done ????
 
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Old Nov 23, 2006 | 08:32 AM
  #5  
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Clubwagon
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Well then..... that's different. I am now sure its the clutch hydraulics. Classic. Either there is still air in the system and it needs to be blead (these are notoriously hard to bleed) or the master is leaking past the internal seal.

If one of the two has gone bad and been replaced, then its very likely that the other was in about the same condition and failed shortly after.

Replace the master and that should fix the problem.

Steve
'95 Clubwagon XLT
 
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Old Nov 23, 2006 | 08:54 AM
  #6  
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From: riverton u.s
Thank you for your feed back being Turkey day and all. I will replace the master friday and post my findings. Thanks again.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2006 | 08:56 AM
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From: Saint Augustine, FL
Good Luck and Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family

Steve
 
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Old Nov 23, 2006 | 11:16 AM
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
Also, for what it's worth:

To bleed the clutch:

-With the bleeder valve closed, depress the clutch pedal to the floor.
-Slip your foot off the pedal and let it fly back to the top (DON'T be gentle).
-Repeat several times (5 is a good number)
-Depress the pedal to the floor, hold it there, and have a helper open the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder.
-Allow the fluid to run out.
-When the fluid stops flowing from the valve, shut the valve and release the pedal. Repeat as needed.
-Be sure to keep the reservoir full, a third person to watch the reservoir is a very good asset to have.
 
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