cam break in
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 229
Likes: 1
From: Fargo, ND
cam break in
Hi,
I just purchased a comp cams 256 XE cam kit, which came with dual coil valve springs. I was reading the break in instructions and they said that to properly break in the cam, you must remove the inner springs and install just the outers for break in. After the cam is broke in, it then says to disassemble and install the inners. What I am wondering, is if this is really necessary. I have a 1978 F150 with a 400ci and the truck had ac so it has the big box sticking out of the firewall which makes it impossible to remove the passenger side valve cover ( I have aftermarket valve covers that are a little taller than stock) without lowering the motor. I hate to have to go through all this work if it is not necessary. I will have the motor out to install the cam so I would like to have it all together and be done with it.
I just purchased a comp cams 256 XE cam kit, which came with dual coil valve springs. I was reading the break in instructions and they said that to properly break in the cam, you must remove the inner springs and install just the outers for break in. After the cam is broke in, it then says to disassemble and install the inners. What I am wondering, is if this is really necessary. I have a 1978 F150 with a 400ci and the truck had ac so it has the big box sticking out of the firewall which makes it impossible to remove the passenger side valve cover ( I have aftermarket valve covers that are a little taller than stock) without lowering the motor. I hate to have to go through all this work if it is not necessary. I will have the motor out to install the cam so I would like to have it all together and be done with it.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,561
Likes: 1
From: Earth
I've never heard of not breaking in an engine with dual valve springs. My 400 in my '53 has Lunati dual valve springs and a Ford SVO cam. I broke in my engine with the dual springs. It still runs fine. I would assume they are concerned with the increase in spring pressure on cam break-in. Hopefully someone can chime in here with a little more info, like Torque1st, Danlee or TMI. You might contact Comp Cams just for the heck of it.
One bit of advice, if you haven't heard already, be sure to use a good oil on the break in. Use Shell Rotella-T or Chevron Dello 400....these are diesel grade oils that are approved for gas engines as well. However, they have higher levels of zinc in them that the newer gas engine oils don't have. This topic has been of much discussion in the Oil forum. Seems like there have been increasing claims that the newer oils are causing excessive wear on flat tappet cams and the cam lobes are getting wiped out. Just thought I would give you a heads up.
Good Luck!
One bit of advice, if you haven't heard already, be sure to use a good oil on the break in. Use Shell Rotella-T or Chevron Dello 400....these are diesel grade oils that are approved for gas engines as well. However, they have higher levels of zinc in them that the newer gas engine oils don't have. This topic has been of much discussion in the Oil forum. Seems like there have been increasing claims that the newer oils are causing excessive wear on flat tappet cams and the cam lobes are getting wiped out. Just thought I would give you a heads up.
Good Luck!
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 30,255
Likes: 37
I would follow the manual. Spring pressure == friction & wear. It is not hard to unbolt the motor mount and roll the engine a little.
Ditto the diesel oil for break in. Comp Cams also sells an additive for break in. Call them and ask about it. From what I have heard we may need to use diesel oil in any flat tappet engine. I have also heard rumors that the diesel oil may change also...
Use rubber gaskets on the valve covers, not the cork jobs. Glue the rubber gasket to the valve cover with yellow snot (3M weatherstrip adhesive). Weight the valve cover down on a flat surface until the glue dries. I sometimes bolt it to a piece of wood. Watch to make sure the holes line up. Smear some grease or silicone dielectric compound on the face of the gasket after the glue has set. The rubber gaskets can be reused many times this way.
Ditto the diesel oil for break in. Comp Cams also sells an additive for break in. Call them and ask about it. From what I have heard we may need to use diesel oil in any flat tappet engine. I have also heard rumors that the diesel oil may change also...
Use rubber gaskets on the valve covers, not the cork jobs. Glue the rubber gasket to the valve cover with yellow snot (3M weatherstrip adhesive). Weight the valve cover down on a flat surface until the glue dries. I sometimes bolt it to a piece of wood. Watch to make sure the holes line up. Smear some grease or silicone dielectric compound on the face of the gasket after the glue has set. The rubber gaskets can be reused many times this way.
Last edited by Torque1st; Nov 22, 2006 at 01:57 PM.
New User
Joined: Apr 2006
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Oil
I did some research and found that Texaco Oil has a high level of zinc. I also emailed them to verify this and they confirmed it. I plan to use this oil after my break in with Rotella-T. Texaco oil is not as high as Rotella or Delo but pretty close.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 14
From: Island Southeast Alaska
My 390 built to 427 broke the first two hi lift cams near the back. When I acquired the engine I did the one spring thing with a smaller RV type cam. Never had a problem since. Maybe it helps to follow the directions. IMHO
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,561
Likes: 1
From: Earth
Originally Posted by arctic y block
My 390 built to 427 broke the first two hi lift cams near the back. When I acquired the engine I did the one spring thing with a smaller RV type cam. Never had a problem since. Maybe it helps to follow the directions. IMHO
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
break that dual spring flat tappet hi lift in with Redline 10w30 Racing oil
http://www.redlineoil.com/products_motoroil.asp?productID=14&subCategoryID=2 &categoryID=2
has 3 times the zddp organic zinc phosphate levels of retail motor oil for EP and AW levels required by a high dual spring pressure flat tappet cam and lifters
liberally coat the cam lobes and lifters with the enclosed special cam lube
add a bottle of the Comp Cams lube to the oil
start and run engine at 2k rpm for 30 minutes (no load no driving) to break in cam....do NOT shut off engine for first 30 minutes
bypass cat. converter until cam broke in totally 1000 miles then you can change to a regular retail motor oil
i would still add a bottle of Valvoline Syn. Engine Oil Treatment, G.M. Engine Oil Supp, or CD-2 Street Legal High Performance Oil Boost, NO substitutes to each oil change for the extra AW and EP requirements that a flat tappet cam has.
http://www.redlineoil.com/products_motoroil.asp?productID=14&subCategoryID=2 &categoryID=2
has 3 times the zddp organic zinc phosphate levels of retail motor oil for EP and AW levels required by a high dual spring pressure flat tappet cam and lifters
liberally coat the cam lobes and lifters with the enclosed special cam lube
add a bottle of the Comp Cams lube to the oil
start and run engine at 2k rpm for 30 minutes (no load no driving) to break in cam....do NOT shut off engine for first 30 minutes
bypass cat. converter until cam broke in totally 1000 miles then you can change to a regular retail motor oil
i would still add a bottle of Valvoline Syn. Engine Oil Treatment, G.M. Engine Oil Supp, or CD-2 Street Legal High Performance Oil Boost, NO substitutes to each oil change for the extra AW and EP requirements that a flat tappet cam has.
Last edited by 96_4wdr; Nov 22, 2006 at 09:57 PM.
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Elder User
Joined: May 2006
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what weight are you guys using as a break-in straight 30? or the 15w40? i would think sae 30 correct?
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Senior User
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The rumor about the diesel oil changing also, is true. I went to buy some Rotella 15w-40 at Wal-Mart the other day, and there it was on the shelf. They had the SL rated oil on one shelf, with the newer SM oil right underneath it. I grabbed several gallons of the older stuff, to get me through for a while. The new label is a little fancier looking, that is the one I would stay away from. Cheap insurance, in my opinion.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 14
From: Island Southeast Alaska
Originally Posted by kilog55
what weight are you guys using as a break-in straight 30? or the 15w40? i would think sae 30 correct?
running 5w30 in the 93 V6 and 84 ranger 4 cyl. But running 10w40 in the Dodge 1990 360. Any thing lighter in the 360 makes the top end rattle. Dodge said to run 10w40 year round. Done this sense new. At this out side temp what is recommended for this fleet, as it is all I run in the winter.
