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ABS light

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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 06:51 AM
  #1  
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ABS light

My ABS light on my 99 Expedition comes on after 15-20 minutes of driving.
It always resets when the vehicle is turned off.

Any thoughts? I was guessing maybe a wheel sensor?
Best method of diagnosis?

Thanks,

Scottek
 
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by scottek
Best method of diagnosis?
Get the codes read. Without them, you're left with guessing.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 07:32 AM
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"Get the codes read..."

Is that an Autozone read (like the ECM) or is that a Ford only read?
Thanks for the reply.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 07:48 AM
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Depends.

RABS is DIY.

4WABS is special scanner - dealer or good independent shop.

Neither are auto parts stores jobs.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 07:54 AM
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Thanks for the heads-ups...


It is 4 wheel abs, thus it looks like I am going to Ford.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 02:02 PM
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Some shops have these other than the dealer. I have one that is made by OTC that does ABS and airbags. So call around to some other shops and see what they might have.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 03:40 PM
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Spend the $23 and change the rear sensor.

My .02

Clint
 
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by ohioclint
Spend the $23 and change the rear sensor.

My .02

Clint
I agree. I did this on my Exyp and it was very easy. 1 screw and 1 plug. The dealer wanted $126 to fix mine. I did it for about $23.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 08:14 AM
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Before spending 2 cents, pull the sensor and ohm it. A good one usually reads between 1000 and 1500 ohms. Bad ones are usually open. Same for the front ones.

However, he does not have an open sensor. Read his symptoms carefully, the fault light comes on only after extended driving. A bad sensor (hard fault) will cause the ABS light to come on and stay on immediately after POST.

Steve
 
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by projectSHO89
Before spending 2 cents, pull the sensor and ohm it. A good one usually reads between 1000 and 1500 ohms. Bad ones are usually open. Same for the front ones.

However, he does not have an open sensor. Read his symptoms carefully, the fault light comes on only after extended driving. A bad sensor (hard fault) will cause the ABS light to come on and stay on immediately after POST.

Steve
That is some great info, would it be a good idea to check voltage also? My light came on when I started it first thing in the morning (a week ago now) and it has stayed on since, so what you are saying is a hard code like mine generally is a bad sensor, am I right?
 
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 08:40 AM
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A voltage check of any of the ABS sensor requires the drivetrain to be in motion. Best to leave that to a properly trained technician....

I'd just pull the rear sensor and ohm it. It is, by far, the most common failure and reason for "hard" ABS fault lights. There is plenty more that can and does go wrong, though .....

Steve
 
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 03:59 PM
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According to my wife, it usually comes on after a turn.

Thanks for the info...I will ohm the sensors when I do the brakes tomorrow.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 06:30 PM
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Probably contamination on one of the wheel sensors, possibly a front wheel bearing, or an improper sensor to tone ring gap..... A resistance measurement will show the sensor to be good.

Really need the code(s) so you're not shooting in the dark.

Sorry

Steve
 
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Old Jan 10, 2009 | 01:19 PM
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Posting info for future searchers. My ABS light was on at all times. I removed the rear differential sensor and cleaned it. Reinstalled and problem solved.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 10:29 AM
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+1 on changing the sensor on the rear diff. They are so often the cause of this problem and are so cheap to do yourself $25 bucks +/- that it's worth the bet just to save the $100 plus your will pay the dealer...
 
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