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Finally found it. On top of the thermostat housing I've got a pipe T with two vacuum control valves (replace one about a month ago). No wires running to it.
Searching further finally found the temp sensor behind the alternator bracket - on the front of the engine. Connecter was corroded and loose. Sprayed cleaner on it, squeezed connecter with needle nose pliers to tighten, added some dielectric grease and reconnected. Temp gauge seems to be working now.
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