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Old Nov 18, 2006 | 07:10 PM
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rebuild misc.

My 390 is in the shop being rebuilt. Fantastic shop, Parker Bros. Automotive, in Moultrie, GA.
I am replacing the carb. and distributor at the same time.
If I replace the dist. with a point-less one, what other changes does that entail?
Also, are there any other "major" replacements I should make with the new rebuild?
I appreciate all help.
 

Last edited by 66fordf100; Nov 18, 2006 at 07:11 PM. Reason: grammer
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Old Nov 18, 2006 | 07:29 PM
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A lighter aluminum intake.
Also, I like to use a high-volume oil pump.
Now would be a good time to send the radiator out to a radiator shop for a rod-out.
Good luck with your new engine
 
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Old Nov 18, 2006 | 08:12 PM
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I wouldn't put an aluminum intake on it but that is just my opinion you really don't gain a alot for what you spend and if it gets cold the aluminum can freeze. I used a cast iron 4bbl intake on my 390, thought about going aluminum but not about to spend $400+ for little to no gain.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2006 | 09:19 PM
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Agreed the aluminum is only handy if you plan on having it on and off all the time. hehehe If your going with a Davidson DUI its just a single wire. Heard good things, not rich myself. Went with a Crane XRi conversion... would have rather spent the 80.00 on headers and went with points I think. But there I go thinking again..
 
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Old Nov 18, 2006 | 09:24 PM
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I would suggest also taking the heater core in with the radiator and testing the starter and altinator while you have the parts off. Replace the transmisstion fluid/oil and filter. Draining the TQ convertor with the engine out will make it a lot eaiser. Not to mention you will be able to flush all the lines as well by turning the convertor by hand.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2006 | 06:07 AM
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66, Hows about a little more impute. What kind of tranny, rear end will be behind the engine? Will you be towing, driving it to Home Depot, racing it?

Be sure to have the maching shop open the oil gallies up in the filter area regardless of your use.

Gents, What's up with alu. intakes freezing? Never seen that before.

thanks

John
 
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Old Nov 19, 2006 | 08:26 AM
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Cant say that I have heard of the freezing thing, just that I dont see 3+ bills being anything but pretty money. And in some cases lots of undue headaches (port alignment/prev shavn, sealing) I agree that I dont believe there is any real diff in poerformance by just the intake. Add some headers to the mix on either stock or alum and now you done something.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2006 | 02:18 PM
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Thanks

Thanks for the replys.
I did have the radiator cleaned and resealed.
I also replaced the alt., and starter last year.
The tranny is a 3 sp man. with OD. Not sure about the diff.
What about the breakerless dist? Also, where can I find new exhaust manifolds?
I can only find the right sided one online?
Thanks again.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2006 | 02:45 PM
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Ive seen both on ebay, however for about 45 each the machine shop can resurface yours. If it's in decent shape.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2006 | 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by customcab66
I wouldn't put an aluminum intake on it but that is just my opinion you really don't gain a alot for what you spend and if it gets cold the aluminum can freeze. I used a cast iron 4bbl intake on my 390, thought about going aluminum but not about to spend $400+ for little to no gain.
$240 for Edelbrock.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2006 | 06:46 PM
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In regards to the aluminum intake there should be atleast two benefits noted; the obvious is its lighter and dosen't aluminum dissipate heat alot better than the ole' cast iron unit? I want to upgrade my 352 to a four barrell carb when I rebuild in the spring. Hey 66' what turned you on to the machine shop in Moultrie and if you do not mind me asking what are they doing and the cost of the work. I've got to rebuild my 352 and am in need of a "good" shop. I'm in Macon, above Moultrie.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2006 | 07:17 PM
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This months car craft has a "what's your problem" section that suggests a additive for the cooling system to combat corrosion. It's called No-Rosion made by Applied Chemical Specialties. This is especially good if you are running a aluminum intake or water pump. It also extends the life of the coolant at the same time. Another note is to use distilled water, not deionized.

With the 4 speed I would resurface the flywheel and replace the clutch and throwout bearing. With the exhuast manifolds you have two options. Resurface them like posted above or replace them with a good set of headers. The headers alone will improve overall performance.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2006 | 07:25 PM
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http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...8&autoview=sku

http://www.pertronix.com/

These are two sources for replacing the points in your distributor. If you google it you can find more.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 07:00 AM
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Dyno tests by a guy on the FE engine site reveal that the cast iron intake shockingly flows just as good as the Edelbrock performer. Since cast iron ones are generally almost free for the taking, that's the route I'm headed down.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 12:33 PM
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Dwight, Which cast iron intake? The stock ones do not, The Edlebrock is modeled after the one with the S on it, and it flows better.

There are several of the cast iron intakes on this page.
http://home.alltel.net/bsprowl/Intak...exFactory.html

John
 
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