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I just ordered the pump today myself and will change things over, I hope it doesn't need the gauge sender or float, especially since I haven't seen a part # for it .... I know Ford only sells it all together for the BigBucks. I hope mine works after I change the pump ... it works now with the key off but not on ... but that just started when the pump crapped out totally.
I think i might be able to share a few tips on changing this pump beings i just did it to my pickup on saturday. The bolts that hold the straps up are 13mm and the nuts need a 15mm deepwell, well at least thats what they were on my pickup. I didn't have the 15mm deepwell so i had to get a ride to go buy one and that was just a pain. These bolts were also veeeeery rusty so i'd spray em down with wd-40 or something similar a few times to ease getting the nuts off. You need a special tool to disconnect the fuel lines off the outside of the tank. The lines go on the tank over a flange and then a clip inside the line snaps in behind the flange and locks it in place once the flange goes by the clip. You might want to blow the top of the tank free of dust and gravel so you don't get anything in the tank when you open it up. The wires on the outside of the tank go up along the framerail where there is a connector that you can disconnect. There are three wires actually in the tank one was yellow in mine and that goes to the float assembly and just unplugs from the clip where it the wires go thru the top. The other two wires were the neg and pos for the pump. You will have to cut these and re-connect them to the new pump with the parts provided and a crimping tool or the crimping part of a wire cutters. Just make sure you leave enough line to be able to work with and wrap the wires around the pipes to keep them out of the way. Ummmmmm thats about all i can think of right now. If you have any ?s just post em ill try to help.
i had the same problem with my 93 and it was fixed under a recall that was like 13 years or 150,000 miles or somthing like that. i would call the dealer and check and have them run the vin # to see if the recall was done. It took me two trips to get mine done right. the first time they tossed new check valves at it and it didnt fix the problem, so stage two is new fuel pumps front and rear tanks FREE and i got a new FREE rear tank because it started leaking as soon as the straps were pulled to get the pump out. two weeks later i had to replace the side tank due to a leak under the strap, but i didnt complain to much i got new pumps and one tank free and i'm sure it would have been leaking on its own soon enough.
Thanks .... I have all the tools, and I took a look at those nuts this weekend ... will spray them down a day or so before with my PB Blaster ... great stuff. I will siphon the tank on Friday and pump should be here then ... put 3 gallons in front tank and used half my other tank for 50 miles ... so I am sure the front one is at least half full now. I do have a few questions:
Did you drop the tank all the way or just tip it to access the pump?
How did you disconnect the filler tube ... my rubber looks like it might be a PIA to remove ... was thinking of just unbolting it from inside the filler door?
Did you have to depressurize the line before removing?
Shuttlevalve ... my truck is a 90 I think the fix was for 10, 13 or 15 years and 150K ... but mine is too old ... couldn't get an answer from the dealers here when I tried about 6 months ago .... New Orleans area has all it's dealerships back, but not as fully staffed as before, which would probably be Okay since not all customers back .... but there are a heck of a lot more fairly new F250 and F350's running the streets here .. contractor, emergency response trucks .... so they stay busy with that. I figure I can fix it myself and make sure it is done correctly, instead of by someone overworked with their mind on the newer models that they have a backlog of work for.
Yes i love PB Blaster too, its what i sprayed my bolts with. I did drop the tank out all the way i figured it would be easier to move to some open ground to work on it instead of laying on the ground underneath my pickup. The filler tube was really a pain in the rear for me as i was dumb and took all the clamps off and ended up pulling the inner fill tube off of the flange it fits over inside the metal part of the assembly. I think if you take the three bolts out at the filler cap and loosen the clamp at the tank you should be good, just don't take the other hose clamp off. Actually there is another hose clamp you will want to take off that holds the filler hose in place. You'll see what one i mean. I didn't depressureize it and somehow i didn't get sprayed either, woohoooo. Yes i did get to go hunting sunday but didn't get done fixing early enough on saturday to get anywhere before it got dark. Didn't get anything but saw a nice buck with about ten does runnin circles around him about 700 yds away so that was kinda fun to watch in the binoculars.
No .... it is just a "Better Design" .... it keeps some amount of fuel in the tanks so that the crud in the bottom of the tanks does not dry up and cause the fuel lines to get clogged up by big chunks of crud.
You will probably need a new pump soon in one or both of the tanks, I think the 92 has the same setup as my 90.
Like I said ... you will probably need a new pump soon ... I have just been filling the rear and run off it a while then switch to the front .... my front pump quit working .. and it was the one that was getting crossflow to it. You will probably need to replace the rear pump, the checkvalve is not keeping the gas return out when the pump is off like it was "Better Design"ed to do.
I will be replacing my front pump tomorrow morning.
The wires on the outside of the tank go up along the framerail where there is a connector that you can disconnect.
Well I did mine Friday and Yesterday .... of course it doesn't work. I had to get a new float ... it had a hole in it. When I was pulling the tank down I pulled the wiring from the framerail and didn't really take a look at what was holding it in place ... there was some goo there from the pads so I thought that was what was holding it. So how is it attached, I dread pulling the tank again .... especially since the filler tube is such a four letter word (well maybe 6) to get back in.
In my thread about this problem Frederic said it sounds like a grounding problem to him ... since the pump doesn't pump and the gas gauge is buried wayyyyy past the full mark ... I only put 4 gallons back in ... it was full with 16 in it when I started. So that what leads me to believe there was some grounding clip stuck to the framerail holding the wiring up there .... or is it plastic and I have another problem?
I also painted some rusty areas on top the tank with zinc paint ... don't know if that is causing the grounding problem.
AC700 ... I got it fixed ... it's a wonder how well things work when you plug them in all the way ... I must have knocked it loose struggling to get the filler hose back in there.
Thanks for your help ... it is a 15mm nut and a 13mm bolt on the 90, but my truck doesn't need the special tool I bought a few months ago ... pull up the plastic clips and replace them with the ones in the kit ... same thing for the filter ... which I also replaced.
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