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Old Nov 17, 2006 | 09:05 PM
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Ecm

Is there more than one type of ECM for a 1999 (7/98) F350 7.3 CC Dually? I replaced my injectors with Beans 60HP injectors. It ran really awful before setting my Superchip setting to the performance setting. It runs fantastic until you let off the pedal, then it runs awful. My mechanic said the ECM must be faulty. He said some ECMs have a chip that you purchase separately. Are there different ECM available and where can they be purchased?
 
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Old Nov 17, 2006 | 10:44 PM
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did you get single or split shot injectors?
 
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Old Nov 17, 2006 | 11:22 PM
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Single shots.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2006 | 08:42 AM
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You might want to call Jody www.dp-tuner.com and see if he has some programming that will drive those injectors efficiently
 
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Old Nov 18, 2006 | 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by paradiseandpalms
Single shots.
That's your problem. You need to tune the ECM to run with single or split shots. Jody could handle your needs just fine.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2006 | 04:11 PM
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Ok, I just installed my DP Tuner. (I know, I didn't tell you that I had ordered a tuner from Jody. I wanted to see if you had a different opinion than my mechanic.) Well, it didn't help at idle or when you let off the pedal when you are driving. Where the difference is, is when you accelrate in the 80HP and the 100HP settings. It really moves! But when you let off of the pedal, it lopes (?) and runs ruff. i called Jody today (Saturday) and hope to getr a return call on Monday. In the mean time, does anyone have an idea or suggestion to what may be causing my problem at idle and off pedal?
I also have a few other add-ons to do: Tymar intake, HPX line and an overboost protector. Other than that, early next year I will be getting gauges and new tires. I will be increasing the tire size from 215's to 265's.

Thank you for your help,
Pat
 
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Old Nov 18, 2006 | 04:39 PM
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if you diddnt get the chip custom programmed for your single shot injectors you will have the same problem as before. stock injectors are split shots where they fire twice during the power stroke, they are quieter and smoother than single shots. single shots are what were in the older body style trucks. you can get more power from single shots but they are noisier and run rougher. since your pcm is programmed for split shots it is trying to fire injectors only designed to fire once per cycle twice like the stock ones. you have to tell jody you have single shot injectors so he can custom burn a chip for you and i would get those guages in as soon as possible because with high power injectors and a chip you can do damage to your motor if you dont keep an eye on it
 
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Old Nov 18, 2006 | 04:47 PM
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What Muktown said. Jody will tell you the same thing.
And I say this with all due respect: If I were him I would be tempted to charge you extra to reburn your chip for giving him mis-information about your truck. He properly programmed your chip for the way the truck was designed.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2006 | 05:33 AM
  #9  
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Again, I must appologize. My error in not stating all info up front.
I spoke to Jody before I bought the injectors. I explained to him what I am using the truck for (family hauler, Home Depot & misc stuff, very occasional heavy towing - will be rebuilding our house soon - destroyed in hurricanes of 2004. Our home this past 2 years has been a 30x8 FEMA trailer, for 5 people!). Jody suggested the single shot stage 1 injectors as being possibly the best for my usage. He said, like all of you have, that I will need a Chip to run the injectors. If I recall correctly, (I have talked to too many people to remember all of it!) I told Jody about my prior problem with the truck running rough when letting off of the pedal. With all of the sideline things that I have replaced already, Jody thought the new injectors and his Chip would finnish solving the problem.
Sideline things replaced: New pedal; IDM - it had signs of water in it; ICP, ERG sensor, CPS (I got a fantastic deal on these, so I decided to replace them while the mechanic was in there); glow plugs and relay while at the injectors - 3 injectors went bad and the rest were very worn for only 85K miles; Tymar Intake - a partial K&N FIPK system was in the truck when I bought the truck back in July; HPX line; Overboost Protector. The last 3 items are still to be installed. Maybe this weekend.
I have recleaned the PCM as per the instructions that came with Jody's chip. The truck runs FANTASTIC, as long as you have the pedal pressed. As soon as you let off of the pedal, it runs awful.
Any ideas before I go crazy?
 
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Old Nov 19, 2006 | 07:30 AM
  #10  
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From: Central, Al
Originally Posted by Paradise
As soon as you let off of the pedal, it runs awful.
Clarify this a little.

If you are running 70 and let off the pedal does it start running like a dog imediately or is it once the engine returns to idle speed.

Possible causes of rough idle are:
Biased ICP - You replaced
Low fuel Pressure - ??
Oil Airation - Have you done the WOT Test?
LPOP Pressure - Pressure in HPOP Reservoir must be minimum 12 psi.
HPOP Pressure balance - HPX Should cure this if it is an issue now
Perform CCT - Electronic Contribution test (looks for a weak cylinger)
Confirm crankcase pressure - < 4" of water on each cylinder
 
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Old Nov 19, 2006 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by amiller93
Clarify this a little.

If you are running 70 and let off the pedal does it start running like a dog imediately or is it once the engine returns to idle speed.

Possible causes of rough idle are:
Biased ICP - You replaced
Low fuel Pressure - ??
Oil Airation - Have you done the WOT Test?
LPOP Pressure - Pressure in HPOP Reservoir must be minimum 12 psi.
HPOP Pressure balance - HPX Should cure this if it is an issue now
Perform CCT - Electronic Contribution test (looks for a weak cylinger)
Confirm crankcase pressure - < 4" of water on each cylinder
When running 70 and I let off the pedal, it immediately runs rough.
My mechanic did the contrubution test and found two cylinders with posible problems. Once he looked further, he found both injectors were so bad that he could not rebuild them. When he replaced all of the injectors, he found the rest of the injectors to be unusally worn for the low miliage the truck has. (I checked several things to verify the miliage. Everything seemed ligit.) When everything was put back together, several cylinders tested positive for problems. When further computer diagnostics were performed, nothing definitive was found. Codes were tracked and suspect areas checked out ok.
As far as the other tests you mentioned, I don't know if those were done. I will ask tomorrow.

Thanks,
Pat
 
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Old Nov 19, 2006 | 12:06 PM
  #12  
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Other information that needs to be brought to attention is that those files are test files that Jody did at Beans request. With your new set up Jody had never done programs like those before. They are new programs never used before. Jody would be able to send new files with information gathered over the phone, but it's hit or miss. Jody would be able to do much more with the programming if he could live tune the truck.

Diane
 
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Old Nov 19, 2006 | 03:21 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by amiller93
Clarify this a little.

If you are running 70 and let off the pedal does it start running like a dog imediately or is it once the engine returns to idle speed.

Possible causes of rough idle are:
Biased ICP - You replaced
Low fuel Pressure - ??
Oil Airation - Have you done the WOT Test?
LPOP Pressure - Pressure in HPOP Reservoir must be minimum 12 psi.
HPOP Pressure balance - HPX Should cure this if it is an issue now
Perform CCT - Electronic Contribution test (looks for a weak cylinger)
Confirm crankcase pressure - < 4" of water on each cylinder
I hope you didn't take my earlier statement wrong, I was "being emphatic" about how important it is to have all the information possible to be able to diagnose these electronically controlled engines.
Along with what Alan said, highlighted in red above I also am wondering if some of the water damage would include corrosion in the ICP wiring. If your truck was caught in that hurricane and it was flooded, well, salt water can get into the tiniest places and begin to attack the conductors. In my experience the only permanant solution (if that is the problem) is to replace the entire wiring harness with a new one. Or a corrosion free used one, preferably out of a wrecked truck that spent it's life in Northern N. Mexico or some other arid climate.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 03:06 AM
  #14  
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Diane,

I apologize, I didn't know part of my equation was at the request of Beans. I'll stop and wait until I speak with Jody and go from there. Sorry.

Kwikordead,

I apologize to you and the others also. As for the salt water intrusion - now you are scaring me. I know how bad that can be! It is something I'll definitely check out. Before buying the truck, I checked common areas that would show signs of water and salt damage. I didn't see anything.

I will update this thread when I get more information. Priority one is to let Jody continue his work with my chip.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 06:53 AM
  #15  
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Paradise there are two main harnesses under the hood the Main engine harness that includes the Juction box and the engine sensor harness that touches all of the engine sensors. R & R is about 6 hours or so and they will fit on a kitchen table (Dont Ask) so you can go over them good. There are a couple of splice points in the sensor harness that with the help of a little electrolysis from the salt water could cause some issues. This would just be piece of mind checking for you as once Jody gets tuned in I would expect your issues to resolve
 
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