Maybe just a good sanding will do the trick. Jag
bed work
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,696
Likes: 1
From: S.W. Florida
bed work
A woodworking freind has offered to plane the boards in my bed down to new level. I shouldn't thimk it will require more than a 1/8th" or so to get down to virgin wood. I'm wondering if this will cause any problems with tolerances when installing new Mar-k powder coated bed strips, on the outside edges where bed meets walls, primarily. What if it ended up being 1/4"? Thanx. Jim
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,190
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From: Riverside, So Cal
Just planing the face of the boards without re-cutting the recesses will leave the strips standing up higher. But then, they are supposed to be up some. I guess you'll have to decide how you like it.
If your buddy has a full-on wood shop, why not recut both?
If your buddy has a full-on wood shop, why not recut both?
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,696
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From: S.W. Florida
Thanks, guys.Randy, yes, i guess I should have gone a little further and said that of course i recut the recesses, ( I think) and my bud is an EXTREMELY talented and "well compensated" custom furniture maker, with a lot of work in Sarasota millionaires homes. and has a shop that would blow your mind. That along with some very $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ exotic woods that I can't afford.
Anyway, what about where wood goes under sheet metal on the sides? I guess we could leave that part unplaned. Jag, they're oldies but still goodys, and definitley would benefit from planing, There are some dings and shallow nicks. They're red oak, and I'm going to oil them rather than varnish, and with a nice light color and black powdered strips, should look pretty sweet.
Anyway, what about where wood goes under sheet metal on the sides? I guess we could leave that part unplaned. Jag, they're oldies but still goodys, and definitley would benefit from planing, There are some dings and shallow nicks. They're red oak, and I'm going to oil them rather than varnish, and with a nice light color and black powdered strips, should look pretty sweet.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,190
Likes: 2
From: Riverside, So Cal
Duuuude! You scored!!! 
Nice network.
My bed wood needed a recess at the sidewall flanges also...just like between the boards. But maybe no recess will work better for bed height (off the frame), after planing the whole thickness, and for cargo (like you really would put anything in there!!!).
BTW (regarding your last post)...think "paragraph".
Nice network.My bed wood needed a recess at the sidewall flanges also...just like between the boards. But maybe no recess will work better for bed height (off the frame), after planing the whole thickness, and for cargo (like you really would put anything in there!!!).
BTW (regarding your last post)...think "paragraph".
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2006
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From: S.W. Florida
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,696
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From: S.W. Florida
I took my truck by my bud's wood shop today. Turns out my red oak is actually pine.
He's ordering me some mahogony @ 6$ a board foot and has offered to plane them to spec for me, so I'm pretty stoked.
He's ordering me some mahogony @ 6$ a board foot and has offered to plane them to spec for me, so I'm pretty stoked.
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2005
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My boss (where I teach) has been making furniture for years. He has a full shop out behind his house, plus access to the huge one at the school. When I get to that point, I know who I am going to hit up to do the work.
Keep us updated on the mahogany. I would be happy with pine at this point. I have a sheet of plywood that they use for concrete forms.
Keep us updated on the mahogany. I would be happy with pine at this point. I have a sheet of plywood that they use for concrete forms.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,337
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From: Harpswell Maine
Depending on how long you want to own your truck, I would want one of the more rot resistant woods. My choice is white oak (much more rot resistent than red oak). Mahogany is a little more pricey but also a good rot resistent wood, Then too you could go for teak. Top quality teak is about $25 a board ft!
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2006
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From: S.W. Florida
I wanted something light colored like maple or spruce, and intend to oil it, no varnish. The black powder coated strips frrom Mar-k would provide a nice contrast. I make it a point not to haul anything heavier than sailboat fuel.