I have a D44HP out of a 79 FSB/F-150 that I'm swapping in place of my TTB. I have the complete axle, with the radius arms and stock 79 radius arm brackets, as well as the stock 79 trac bar. I already have my 1994 TTB F-150 setup with 4" of lift (traction beam and radius arm drop brackets, 4" lift springs, and shocks). I plan on lifting the truck a total of around 8" when all is said and done, with 8.5"- 9" Superlift coils in the front, the 4" lift leaf springs i got from the TTB lift, and a Sky Manufacturing shackle flip bracket in the rear.
Figure by the time I install my bumpers, and a winch, plus my tool box full o' shattner, Line-X and a full size (38.5") spare, it will be sitting 8" over stock.

My main question is concerning the radius arm brackets. The aftermarket TTB drop brackets are really thick, and I trust 'em. I would really like to use them during the swap. The question is, can they be used, or do I have to use the factory 70's style with a 7* bushing? Maybe I could use the drop brackets and a 2 or 4* bushing? It seems leverage and durability wise, if the bracket is longer, yet thicker, it will ultimately allow for more suspension travel, and be just as sturdy as compaired to a factory bracket. But then on the other had, since the factory bracket is closer to the frame there is actually less leverage to break bolts off, bend brackets or frames, etc etc.
The next question is about the strength of the factory radius arm bracket. The stock ones on my 94 rusted through. The 70s style is thicker, but not by much. Will they stand up to 38.5x15.5x15" tires, a Power Lock, and all Chromoly internals in the axle, plus an overly agressive driver?
Well, chime in, let me know what your thoughts, opinions, and experience is with this subject.
Just keep in mind I am VERY rough on vehicles. I managed to break both stock rear leaf springs, a stock coil spring, and crack both radius arms, and the truck never left the ground.

 

personally i'd stick with the 70's radius arm b/c those you can beef up and wrist if you want later.

you should be able to use either radius arm brackets but dont hold me to that.

i am running 39 iroks on my stock 72 radius arms (pass side is wristed and plated) but the other side is stock. i have seen this plenty of times and they hold up great.

-cutts-

 

I will be using the 70's radius arms. The brackets are my main concern.

 

I'd be worried about the rest of the truck if I were you. The way that you are describing your driving habits and what you've broken in the past, I'd be starting this project with an F-250, especially with the 38's - which are at or near the upper limit of the axles in your truck. Even if you beef up the axles, then your weak point is going to be brackets, shackles, the frame, etc.

Just something to think about - I'm sure someone will chime in if they feel I'm off-base.

 

I'm not switching trucks.

 

so you are worried about the brackets from which truck? the 94?

i genuinely think you'll be fine. those things get dished some serious abuse. are you worried about the bracket tearing away from the frame? or the bracket itself buckling?

-cutts-

 

No, the 94 brackets rusted through, then broke. They are no longer on my truck. The TTB drop brackets are on my truck now (along with the rest of my suspension lift). When I bought the D44, it came with the rad arms and brackets. I want to use the TTB drop brackets with the 70's style radius arms because they seem way stronger than the 70's style brackets, but without mocking everything up (which isn't an option at all right now), I don't know if I can. After breaking one set of factory radius arm brackets, I'm leery about trusting another set, especially when they are almost 30 years old. I guess if nobody can answer what I am asking I'll just have to wait until I do the actual swap, and buy 2 diffrent sets of bushings, and then try both radius arm brackets, and see which combo works best.

 

ooo ok, i gotcha

dont know what to tell ya. just try'em i reckon!

-cutts-

 

TTB RA's are shorter. Doesnt mean you cant move the brackets back tho, provided a cab mount isnt in the way. Ive seen some pics on the net of stock 70s RA's bent into a U-shape. What alot of guys do is box them in, since the arm is made up like an I channel.

 

What I think I'll do is use the 7 degree bushing with the stock bracket when I do the original axle build and swap, see how they hold up, and if they suck, then I'll fab some up that are double thickness. Prolly sell off the TTB part of the lift to recover some of the cost.