'92 2.3L slow starting
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Portland, OR
'92 2.3L slow starting
My '92 2.3L has been getting harder and harder to cold start. This problem has been getting worse over the last 2-3 years. I drive it daily and only has 89k mi. It used to fire on first crank, now it has to turn a couple of times and sometimes to get it to start I have to turn the key back to off and hit it again. When it does start it sounds like it's hitting on only 2 cyls. for a couple of revs. Once it's running it's fine. any ideas, Plugs, wires, and dizzy are fine. I checked the fuel pressure and it's within spec.
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Maine
Try giving it just a little gas while it's cranking. The Idle Air Control solenoid, which controls the amount of air that bypasses the throttle when it's closed, will gum up over time. If you give it a little gas, the throttle plate will open and the IAC is removed from the equation.
My '97 would start hard in cold weather unless I pumped the pedal a little, like a carbureted car; eventually it wouldn't idle at all until it warmed up. (I cured that particular problem by hitting it with a monkey wrench; not recommended, but it worked for me...)
I was able to clean the IAC, with TB cleaner, and it's held for almost a year now. I'll probably have to replace it soon, or else clean it again, soon. Given the difficulty of removing it from this engine, I may just replace it.
My '97 would start hard in cold weather unless I pumped the pedal a little, like a carbureted car; eventually it wouldn't idle at all until it warmed up. (I cured that particular problem by hitting it with a monkey wrench; not recommended, but it worked for me...)
I was able to clean the IAC, with TB cleaner, and it's held for almost a year now. I'll probably have to replace it soon, or else clean it again, soon. Given the difficulty of removing it from this engine, I may just replace it.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Maine
I wouldn't do that unless you have to, and even then, a 48 oz hammer is WAY too big. I just tapped it to free up the plunger inside. Even then, that was just so it would start and I could drive it from a 15* windy parking lot to a warmish and well-lit garage.
Try starting with your foot on the gas, if that helps, take the IAC off and clean it out with TB cleaner, or replace it. It's the little silver cylinder mounted on the back of the TB, real pain to take off these engines....
Try starting with your foot on the gas, if that helps, take the IAC off and clean it out with TB cleaner, or replace it. It's the little silver cylinder mounted on the back of the TB, real pain to take off these engines....
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Maine
I figured as much, but didn't want you (or anyone else reading this thread) to try it!
If a little pedal didn't do it, more probably won't help. Mine never took much, just enough to get the throttle open.
If a little pedal didn't do it, more probably won't help. Mine never took much, just enough to get the throttle open.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: suburban atlanta
Beg or borrow a fuel pressure gauge. Put it on the schrader mounted on the fuel rail. Read pressure. If it falls relatively quicky, you have several possible causes of a slow start. Leaky injector(s), leaky regulator check valve, leaky fuel pump check valve.
Another way to test for fuel problems is to cycle the key from off to on, let the pump do its 3 second run, repeat several times. Then try to start. If the fuel has leaked back to the tank for any reason, this procedure would help 'prime' the fuel system, and the engine would start from cold as it used to....
tom
Another way to test for fuel problems is to cycle the key from off to on, let the pump do its 3 second run, repeat several times. Then try to start. If the fuel has leaked back to the tank for any reason, this procedure would help 'prime' the fuel system, and the engine would start from cold as it used to....
tom
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