replacing booster and master
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replacing booster and master
How difficult is it to bench bleed a master and replace a booster?? I think both mine are bad and found one for $150 new booster and reman master. I hear they come pre built jsut not bled. The reason i am looking at booster and master is the pedal fades to the floor and if i just hold my foot on the pedal, it hisses until i let up. Also, if i apply the brakes 2-3 times in a row in a short period of time, the pedal gets really hard and the truck doesnt stop barely. The pedal also sinks when holding the pedal, and goes almost to the floor. My final question is, do parts stores supply quality brake lines for the front, and should i change the drums and pads all at once?? I just need the passenger side...or should i replace everything at once?? Thanks!
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From: Monroe, WA
Bench bleeding is just putting a couple plastic fittings and clear hoses on the master and filling it with fluid. Put the lines up into the fluid and pump the cyl until the air bubbles are gone. Might want to separate the cyl from the booster to make it easier. Use a large #3 phillips screwdriver to push the piston in and out. A bench vise works well to hang on to the cyl while pumping it.
So the pedal sinks but you don't loose any fluid? That would be the master cyl. You should at least do brakes as a per axle set. You need to replace the rotors or at least have them turned so you know they are flat for the new pads to wear in to. I like to buy "loaded" calipers so I know I don't end up with one sticking and burning up the new pads/rotors. Any parts house should be able to get the hoses too (I think that's what you meant by 'lines'). If you were talking about the steel ones, you'll have to bend those up yourself with some straight pieces.
So the pedal sinks but you don't loose any fluid? That would be the master cyl. You should at least do brakes as a per axle set. You need to replace the rotors or at least have them turned so you know they are flat for the new pads to wear in to. I like to buy "loaded" calipers so I know I don't end up with one sticking and burning up the new pads/rotors. Any parts house should be able to get the hoses too (I think that's what you meant by 'lines'). If you were talking about the steel ones, you'll have to bend those up yourself with some straight pieces.
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The booster is very simple, the only hard part is getting at the nuts under the dash, it's a tight space to any work...when I replaced mine I had the dash off and was replcacing it with one with air conditioning, lol.
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The lines look ok but for piece of mind i am going to replace them. If i read correctly, the booster and master are one unit meaning if i get the combined one, i just take out the old combination and put in the new one?? My diesel manual doesn't cover replacement.... what exact procedure do i follow and where are trouble spots?? My rear drum has grooves in it so i assume that i should replace both sides to be safe? Thanks!! Hopefully it will stop better then....
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Another question...how do i tell what the truck GVWR is?? The auto store had above and under 7,---. My sticker in the door jamb is long long gone. Also, what would cause the spring attached to the star wheel reatiner and a cable to be too short?? The cable that wraps around the rear pad clip and then goes to the star wheel retainer arm holds the reatiner too far up so it can't lock the star wheel...thanks!
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Huntington Indiana
One thing we have run into is "bad rebuilds" we went thru 3 rebuilds before getting a good one. Drove us nuts at the shop. Get one with a warranty so you can get another with no hassle.
Get a haynes repair manual 36058. This book gives most of the answers to a lot of questions on brakes etc. It has helped a lot at home on my vehicles.
Get a haynes repair manual 36058. This book gives most of the answers to a lot of questions on brakes etc. It has helped a lot at home on my vehicles.
Last edited by bigredtruckmi; Nov 18, 2006 at 09:34 PM.
