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My altenator light comes on at even moderate rpm's now. It's been getting worse the past year. I went today to price them at NAPA, guy says 8 groove is 95 amp, 6 groove is 130 amp, mine is 8 groove. The 95 amp is actually 15.00 more than the 130 amp. He said I could buy the 130 and just change the pulley. What do any of you guys think? I don't have any other electrical draws other than what comes stock with the truck. Would the 130 amp over tax the rest of the system and possibly ruin a component? Thought I would toss this out before I go buy one. This is on my 98 F-150 4.6, most options, with air. Thanks in advance for any advice. I did search on this topic quite a bit, sounds like a common problem.
Changing the pulley is pretty common place at garages for a lot of vehicles. It ensures that there is not a problem with that part of the replacement process. The question is: do you have the means to?
An air wratchet works, as it hits fast to knock the nut loose. Try a hand-wratchet and you'll be spinning around all day long on the bearings.
Sticking something (like a screwdriver) inside the old one to stop it from spinning works, but doing the same to a new one can screw something up (though I have done it).
Thanks for the input GammaDriver. In my line of work I actually own 2 electric impacts and 1 cordless impact. For serious stuff like dampers or big lug nuts I break out the air impact. Getting the nut off is no problem. Some of that stuff is lefty thread though, so I REALLY think it's stuck until I realize I AM TIGHTENING it even more!
I'm in the garage door biz and I never deal with lefty thread doing that. But it seems whenever I replace an idler pulley or some big old lug nuts on some of the older Ford trucks, I run into some lefty stuff.
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