Valve, ticking and sticking - 1952 F1 239 flathead R code
#1
Valve, ticking and sticking - 1952 F1 239 flathead R code
I have a valve that seems to stick open causing a commpresson loss and a little ticking noise. I assume it ticks because it is slightly open and when the cam shaft turns it hits it open farther. Otherwise this engine runs beautiful.
I have never done a valve job before, but I am pretty mechanical.
I have already tryed mystery oil in the cylinder, gas and oil and transmission fluid in the carb while running trick, nothing has worked to date. The problem is intermitent, but when it reappears I do get a slight miss.
Are any special tools needed to remove the valves or can I do it with the regular stuff, how hard is it, any advice? What else should I do when I get in there with the heads and manifold off. I would like to try it my self,
How much would I expect to pay if I find a local shop? Anyone know of a good shop/person in the Ft Lauderdale area?
Thanks
Bryan
I have never done a valve job before, but I am pretty mechanical.
I have already tryed mystery oil in the cylinder, gas and oil and transmission fluid in the carb while running trick, nothing has worked to date. The problem is intermitent, but when it reappears I do get a slight miss.
Are any special tools needed to remove the valves or can I do it with the regular stuff, how hard is it, any advice? What else should I do when I get in there with the heads and manifold off. I would like to try it my self,
How much would I expect to pay if I find a local shop? Anyone know of a good shop/person in the Ft Lauderdale area?
Thanks
Bryan
#2
Valve, ticking and sticking - 1952 F1 239 flathead R code
When you get the heads off turn the heads to one side and poor gas in the intake ports til full then let it sit for about 4 minutes and see if they hold, but if they leak then you'll have to do a complete valve job. A couple of weeks ago I ran a compression test on my sons friends car because it had a bad miss, it had really good compression in 7 cylinders so I thought he may of have a burnt valve but when we pulled the head the valve was bent so we took it to the machine shop and they had a used valve that they put back in it and the cost was only $20.00.
#3
#4
Valve, ticking and sticking - 1952 F1 239 flathead R code
I had an intermittent ticking sound that would go away for a while and then come back at times under higher speeds. Sometimes letting the engine drop to idle and then bringing it back up to speed would make the sound go away. I pulled the heads a while back due to water in the oil (see cracked head/block thread a couple months ago). Turns out the valve seat insert on the #4 cylinder had cracked, come loose from the block and was holding the valve up. Looks like it may have been pushed back into place when the valve would come down and stay there for a while, but would then pop out of the block again. I can't say for sure that's what happened, but it would explain a lot of the tick/chatter sound.
I'm hoping I can get the seat insert back in and peen the edge to hold it just long enough to drive into my barn and pull the engine for a complete rebuild. Good time to install hardened seats on all the valves...
Get a replacement gasket, pull the head and take a look. Could be a seat problem, could be the valve, could be rings, etc.
I'm hoping I can get the seat insert back in and peen the edge to hold it just long enough to drive into my barn and pull the engine for a complete rebuild. Good time to install hardened seats on all the valves...
Get a replacement gasket, pull the head and take a look. Could be a seat problem, could be the valve, could be rings, etc.