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I just painted my car with enamel paint my question is, is there clear coat for enamel paint and if there is can I wet sand the whole car before clearing.
I am not sure of all the issues in your paint job but the simplest and easiest
would be to recoat with your present paint. If you have a reasonable
quality product and it is sprayed correctly (gun pressure and volume control)
it should come very close to bc/cc..
Last edited by fordpilot; Nov 14, 2006 at 09:01 AM.
You can clear over acrylic enamel, but if it is a metallic you don't want to sand it, as the metallic will be effected. If you do sand a metallic then you would need to apply another coat of color. A solid color you might be able to get away with sanding, but I still would feel safer applying another coat of color. I've heard some say certain solid colors people sanded and became blotchy. Never happened to me, but I've used very little acrylic enamel and none without the last 10 years. Urethane is used much more often then enamels these days. You need to find the product data sheet for the acrylic enamel you are using and see what kind of information it gives. It should tell you which of their clears are compatable, but would think most enamel and urethane clears would be. I believe the window is pretty wide for recoat of enamel without sanding, but not sure of the exact time. Could be days, see if it says in your sheets, or call the manufacturers tech support number and see if you can find out. There will also be a minimum amount of time you need to wait to clear or recoat to prevent possible lifting. Believe most would be around 4 hours to overnight. Once you have some coats of clear on top you can wetsand and buff the clear to take care of small flaws or dirt nibs without effecting the metallic. Adding clearcoats on top should give a little more depth to the paint job. But if you are planning on clearing anyways, then it would be smarter to just use a basecoat/clearcoat type paint. Repairability is easier midstream if you mess up the color and a lot quicker drying till clear, and easier to repair in the future and match. I don't think there would be a great cost saving using an acrylic enamel then clear vs a base/clear system. Many of the really cheap bases in fact are acrylic enamel which are converted to use as base. Another trick used in the old acrylic enamel days was they would add up to 50 percent clear to the last coat they sprayed. But then I still don't think you could really sand and buff a metallic without a few coats of straight clear on top.
Yes you will need to color sand the car before applying the clear and yes there is clear for enamel.
For further info as to how soon you can do this refer to the data sheet and if you don't fine what you need call the tech help line there shoud be a number listed on the product. Hope this helps.
Make sure to follow all the safety precautions listed on the product also.
Good Luck
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