I am replacing worm sway bar bushings, the ones where the bar meets the axle, not the frame. These are rubber inside a metal sleeve that "press" into the axle. Im having trouble removing the old ones and am looking for suggestions on how to remove them. I drenched them in wd-40 and tried to tap them out from the backside 30mins. later and these things dont budge. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

3 pound hammer
hit it as hard as possible
you wont hurt the beam

 

find a socket just a little small, hit with hammer, good luck

 

3lb hammer worked out great after i removed the shock (they were being replaced anyways). Now for a shock question.

Got the shocks in fairly easily. If someone could please let me know the bottom bolt torque specs. if you have that info. as well as how tight the top nut needs to be. Its not very roomy up there. I have it hand tight + maybe 1 1/2 to 2 turns which took about 5minutes. lol. Dont worry I'm not driving it yet. Thanks for all your help and quick responses. Its greatly appreciated

 

Shock Absorber

CAUTION:
The low pressure gas front shock absorbers (18124) are charged with nitrogen gas to 931 kPa (135 psi). Do not attempt to open, puncture or apply heat to the front shock absorbers.


Removal

1. Insert a medium-depth socket from the front side of the spring upper seat, or insert a wrench from the rear side of the spring upper seat to hold the front shock absorber upper retaining nut.

2. Loosen the stud by turning the hex provided on the exposed (lower) part of the stud and remove the nut.

3. Disconnect the lower end of the front shock absorber from the lower bracket bolt and nut.

4. Remove the front shock absorber, washers and rubber insulators.


Installation

1. When installing a front shock absorber, use a new rubber insulator. Push the insulator down through the hole in the spring tower.

2. Place the front shock absorber's bayonet into the upper insulator and slide the lower bushing of the front shock absorber over the radius arm stud. Tighten the shock absorber lower nut and washer assembly to 68-92 N-m (50-68 lb-ft).

3. While holding the nut as described in Step 1 of Removal, tighten to 34-47N-m (25-35 lb-ft) by turning the hex provided on the stud.

 

Ok thanks. So its the "upper retaining nut" that I can't seem to figure out how to torque down. I can get a small wrench up there but its a very slow 1/4 turn at a time. The "spring upper seat" is in the way. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

 

A light bulb went off, I think. So I just get a socket or wrench on the upper retaining nut and hold it in place while turning the "hex" on the shock itself to tighten the upper nut?

 

Yes that is what it says above.

 

Ok got it, thanks for the help. First time I've done shocks and you guys have made it easy.

 

ok got shocks in, everything went smooth...now getting the new swaybar bushings in seems like a nightmare because of the "tie-rods" (not sure if that is the proper term) that connect to the wheels. no room to pound the bushings in without removing them. anyone know of a way to do it without having to remove them. If not please let me know how easy/hard it is to mess with disconnecting the "tie-rods" (or whatever these bars are called). Thank you so much.

 

I think you're probably talking about the lower a-arms. You may have to put the new bushings in from the back if you can.

 

just checked the illus. and it is the tierods that are in the way.

 

They are held on by a nut. Remove the nut and drop them out of the way. Just don't turn the tie rod end on the link or it'll change your steering wheel position.

 

So confused. Sorry guys I no mechanic and not the brightest guy in the world either. Ive got several "crown nuts and cotter pins where there is a lubed joint. are these what i want to remove? Ive removed the pins and nuts and try to pull them part and they dont budge.

 

There are three ways you can remove the tie rod end.
1. Tie Rod End Puller. (right way).
2. Tuning Fork (messes up rubber thing).
3. Put the nut on upside down and hit it up with a hammer, should be a brass hammer. (Bad way but some do it this way, can also break something if arm that end goes into is not supported).