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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

How to replace heater core...

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Old Nov 12, 2006 | 12:34 AM
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How to replace heater core...

Anyone out there know how to remove and replace the heater core on a 1970 F100? My heater only blows cold air when I turn it on. The truck is not equipped with factory a/c. Thanks for all responses...
 
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Old Nov 12, 2006 | 06:13 AM
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I do, but I would like for you to make sure that you need to before you do.

1- Is there a good loop (5/8" hose) from the water pump to the heater core on the firewall and back to the intake?

2- Is there a valve in that loop that may be turned off?

3- Suggestion, Remove both the hoses from the heater core and with a garden hose flush the heater core in both directions. As long as there is a decent flow of water through the core and no leaks on the floor from the core, it shouldn't need replacing.

Should the core seem to be flowing good, the water pump may not be pushing hot water back there. These checks are pretty simple and much easier than pulling the core if you don't need to.

Let us know what you find, being warm is a good thing.

John
 
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Old Nov 12, 2006 | 07:41 AM
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the valve on the heater hoses could be rusted in off position like mine was/had to replace it and all was well after that. though it did change the heater core not long after since it started leaking,it was one of the easiest i have ever done! took about an hour
 
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Old Nov 12, 2006 | 01:33 PM
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Heater core is pretty easy on these trucks, Just drain the coolant, disconnect the hoses at the firewall and unbolt the heater assembly from the firewall. Watch that you dont tear off the heater control cables when it comes away from the firewall. But thats pretty hard to do. Really just tear into it. If you have any mechanical abilities at all it is not a hard task.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2006 | 07:43 PM
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Hmm, it looks like there IS a valve on the hose. It is attatched to a cable... Uh oh, I am thinking that the cable is connected to the heat lever inside the truck. When I move the switch, it moves freely without resistance.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2006 | 07:53 PM
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then the valve is bad,mine was doing the same thing..i bought mine from www.dennis-carpenter.com for about $20..you can also check with lmc as they should have it
 
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Old Nov 13, 2006 | 07:55 PM
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may also want to check the cable to make sure it is still connected the the heat lever inside,if it is then the valve is indeed bad
 
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Old Nov 13, 2006 | 08:06 PM
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Just from the way the lever feels, I don't think it is connected at all. Any idea how to get in there to check?
 
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Old Nov 13, 2006 | 08:15 PM
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you can either follow the cable from the valve to the control lever,or you can remove the radio and look in from that angle and gain access to it..it is pretty easy to replace the cable.i replaced all the cables in mine while i was doing the valve
 
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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Low70Ford
Just from the way the lever feels, I don't think it is connected at all. Any idea how to get in there to check?
Brother sometimes ya gotta get your head on the mat, a flashlight in your hand, your feet in the back glass to get a perspective on what needs to be done.

John
 
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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 08:14 AM
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to see the cables just pull put the radio or remove the glove box either way you should have lots of room to see putting your head on the mat for this one wont give yo a good perspective as the cable connection is on the top of the control. and as for the heater control valveany local parts store carries them pretty much the same valve for almost every older vehicle. and if you do wind up replacing the core you dont need to drain the coolant just when you unhook the heater hoses unhook the hose without the valve first and tie it up higher than the top of the radiator (remove radiator cap to release any pressure than replace cap prior to unhooking hoses) then remove the hose with the valve in it. and do the same thing will make a small mess but almost all of your coolant will stay where it belongs.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 06:43 PM
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I had to replace the valve and cable on mine. The easiest wasy for me was taking out the glove box and working from there. Pretty easy once I got everything out and apart. Took about an hour to do everything and check for leaks. No worries.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2006 | 08:28 AM
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Aww where is your inner contortionist. I would agree with pulling the glove box leave the radio alone I did mine and didnt pull anything but the heater. Hindsight agrees with pulling the glovebox.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2006 | 08:34 AM
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Looking at the pics of your truck. Pretty sharp. I was wondering where you got your dash from. I have been thinking of building one like it, first one I have seen installed. Looks good.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2006 | 11:11 AM
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Where Does The Retaining Clip Go When Inserting The New Core?
 
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