door latch cable
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door latch cable
Hello, all. I've got the inner door panel off, but can't figure out how to remove and replace the latch cable. It comes off the inside handle in an obvious way, but I can't get the latch out of door (it's loose, but can't get it off of the lock bar and some other similar heavy duty rod, looks like an alignment item) so I can see the lock mechanism where the other end of the cable is restrained.
The thread search function is off so I can't find any other comments about this.
Zep
The thread search function is off so I can't find any other comments about this.
Zep
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
never underestimate the use of brute force when the right way is not obvious!
here's what I've determined:
0. First, the hazard light in the door is not fed by a connector. The whole white plastic body pops out of the lens, with the bulb in it. You can't work on the door unless this dang light is popped out of the door, since it hangs the panel right in the way.
1. You can't fix the cable unless you get the latch loose from the door. First, take out the three screws that hold the latch body to the door frame. Then you've got to disengage three push rods in order to actually get the latch to where you can see it.
2. The most difficult push rod to disengage is the one from the locking solenoid. In order to release it, the latch has to be rotated 90 degrees to the horizontal.
3. You can't rotate it until you unhook the other two rods, one from the key lock and one from the outside latch pushbutton. These can only be released from their top ends, eg, not the latch end but the other end. A few moments study will tell you how to disengage them.
4. Once those two are undone, rotate the the top of the latch forward. You'll have to take out the screw that holds the bottom of the window track in place. Use a pair of slip joint pliers to grasp the hook tip of the solenoid rod and bend it slightly open--this doesn't seem to reduce the ability of the rod to be retained and you'll never get it out of the hole in the latch unless you bend it a little.
5. No pull the latch out to where you can see the plastic housing around the lock mechanism. There is a strap that runs under and snaps into the opposite side--open it up and take it off.
6. Now pop the to latch end of the cable free and thread the old cable retention clip at the end out of its hole. Put the new cable in and replace the plastic cover.
7. Watch out, about now you'll have dropped at least one of the rods into the bottom of the door and it will take you a few minutes to figure out the correct orientation for putting it back in. Make sure you've looked carefully at each rod and its proper place in the latch BEFORE THEY FALL OUT.
8. Put the latch back in, putting the solenoid rod in first and before you screw the latch to the frame. You can put the other rods back in after you re-attach the latch. Be careful to make sure the lock button is up through its hole in the edge of the frame near the window or you'll have to take the screws out.
9. Put the cable into the inside door handle. I found that the sheet metal that the handle is attached to was deformed (I had a really difficult latch, I guess). I fixed that with a piece of 0.050 sheet aluminum about 1-1/2 inches square and some pop rivets, then put the nutplate back in and reattached the handle.
10. Close up the door panel.
It's a good 2-3 exercise. You can't get the solenoid loose from the door frame. I'm not familiar with the fastner that retains it, but I sure don't have a tool that works it. A nice little screw would have been the easy and cheap way, but then you could actually work on the truck yourself. Thank you, Ford.
Zep
here's what I've determined:
0. First, the hazard light in the door is not fed by a connector. The whole white plastic body pops out of the lens, with the bulb in it. You can't work on the door unless this dang light is popped out of the door, since it hangs the panel right in the way.
1. You can't fix the cable unless you get the latch loose from the door. First, take out the three screws that hold the latch body to the door frame. Then you've got to disengage three push rods in order to actually get the latch to where you can see it.
2. The most difficult push rod to disengage is the one from the locking solenoid. In order to release it, the latch has to be rotated 90 degrees to the horizontal.
3. You can't rotate it until you unhook the other two rods, one from the key lock and one from the outside latch pushbutton. These can only be released from their top ends, eg, not the latch end but the other end. A few moments study will tell you how to disengage them.
4. Once those two are undone, rotate the the top of the latch forward. You'll have to take out the screw that holds the bottom of the window track in place. Use a pair of slip joint pliers to grasp the hook tip of the solenoid rod and bend it slightly open--this doesn't seem to reduce the ability of the rod to be retained and you'll never get it out of the hole in the latch unless you bend it a little.
5. No pull the latch out to where you can see the plastic housing around the lock mechanism. There is a strap that runs under and snaps into the opposite side--open it up and take it off.
6. Now pop the to latch end of the cable free and thread the old cable retention clip at the end out of its hole. Put the new cable in and replace the plastic cover.
7. Watch out, about now you'll have dropped at least one of the rods into the bottom of the door and it will take you a few minutes to figure out the correct orientation for putting it back in. Make sure you've looked carefully at each rod and its proper place in the latch BEFORE THEY FALL OUT.
8. Put the latch back in, putting the solenoid rod in first and before you screw the latch to the frame. You can put the other rods back in after you re-attach the latch. Be careful to make sure the lock button is up through its hole in the edge of the frame near the window or you'll have to take the screws out.
9. Put the cable into the inside door handle. I found that the sheet metal that the handle is attached to was deformed (I had a really difficult latch, I guess). I fixed that with a piece of 0.050 sheet aluminum about 1-1/2 inches square and some pop rivets, then put the nutplate back in and reattached the handle.
10. Close up the door panel.
It's a good 2-3 exercise. You can't get the solenoid loose from the door frame. I'm not familiar with the fastner that retains it, but I sure don't have a tool that works it. A nice little screw would have been the easy and cheap way, but then you could actually work on the truck yourself. Thank you, Ford.
Zep
