how do you get the drums off if the star wheel and adjusters are so rusted and set up that no amount of wd40 or a brake tool will ever break the threads loose and turn the star wheel

 

First off make sure the little retaining clips are not over the studs...

Then spray some WD40 (although PB Blaster works much better) around the hub.. where the drum fits over... let it sit 10 minutes or so...

Then beat the heck out of the drum with the biggest hammer you have.. but do not hit the studs.. if it comes loose from the hub but not the shoes you can sometimes rock it back and forth using a prybar or large screwdriver against the backing plate.. just dont pry so hard that you bend it up...

If it's still stuck on the hub then you may have to use a torch to heat it up around the hub.

You may damage the drum in the process, but you will eventually get it off.. you just have to find out if it's stuck to the shoes or the hub.

you might also try using a chisel through the adjuster slot and beat the heck out of the adjuster until it either bends or breaks, but this would be a last-resort measure.

Good luck keep us informed

 

thanks for the reply, that is about what I did but thought maybe someone had a trick solution, why are drum brakes built that way after all these years, after the shoes are about 1/2 worn out or less the self adjusters stop working as they no longer can turn the star wheel anyway. I think I'll take the drum off every 6 months or so and clean up and check adjustment

 

Why is any car/light truck still built with drum brakes?

It's a good idea to take the drums off periodically. I took mine off a while back and saw that the adjusting cable had snapped on one side. They certainly don't make the inspection process quick and easy like disc brakes.

-Jim

 

The reason alot still use drum brakes is because of light weight in the rear. Drum brakes actually do a better job because they apply pressure more evenly and more.. gradually than disc brakes. It helps the rear from locking up at panic stops. Also they are much much more resistant to vibration and warping.

As far as the self adjusters.. they never do work perfect, and have to be periodically adjusted manually in order to keep a tight pedal and even braking. If you think the adjusters do not work beyond 50% wear, then you are mistaken. The simple roots to this myth is because someone will have their brakes looked at.. after 100,000 miles or so when the brakes are about wasted.. and you can tell they've never been checked before because the original factory clips are still installed on the studs. Upon replacement of the brakes they are adjusted back properly and the pedal now is nice and tight. They didn't notice the low pedal ever existed until after the brake work was performed because it happened gradually over time.

If you look at recommended maintenance schedules, you'll notice every 10,000 miles or so calls for a complete brake inspection. This includes removing the drums, cleaning the rust of the edge, and properly adjusting them after reinstallation. If this is done properly there typically won't be any problems.

Try removing some of the self adjust hardware and driving it.. Your brake pedal will be going to the floor within a few hundred miles. They work better than you think.

And I have many many more problems removing disk brake rotors than drums, due to them being seized to the hubs. . .

 

Thanks for the answer, neglect is certaintly not a good idea. The best thing I like about the drum brakes is that when you release the pedal there is a retraction system to pull the shoes completely off the drums. I don't like all the heat generated even when disc brakes are working perfectly, it takes gasoline to produce that heat.