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Yes I run RP, first year I run 10w-40, at end of season bearings still looked good, have now switched to type 41 race oil (10w-40 but race formulation not good for street engines, actually not sure why though). I like it and don't have any problems with it.
I also run RP ATF in my race tranny, all season changed on time this year and it still looks good even though it got to 250deg a couple times, it also dropped my average trans temps by 10-15degs.
What else would you like to know about it?
Wendell have you done any checking on mobil 1 lately, I read somewhere they changed the base stock recently and some guys are pretty upset about it. Basically it's not true synthetic anymore, but modified dino oil is what I read.
Actually, Mobil 1 has always been a borderline synthetic, and with its newest line-up change (2 years ago?) they marketing slogan was that they added MORE syn-power????
Which is why I have always used the "top shelf" synthetics. AMSOIL, Red Line, and Royal Purple.
So...Back to Royal Purple...lol
I'm just curious about the stuff more than anything, at $6.99 a qt is it worth if for normal driving? i.e. no racing, offroad, etc.
Why is it so expensive? will it prolong anything?
I just may need to try some of these out myself. My old job making hydraulic pistons ended in July. A great agency is finding most leads out in the sticks up I-94 for me. The pay rates worth the trouble. Any thoughts of cheaper synths vs RP for highway? A given, though that it should be in the axles, transfer case and tranny no debate. Only question there is that I have the limited slip in the back. Supposed to add a friction mod. Remember reading here or somewhere RP doesn't need it.
Visit bobistheoilguy.com and search for Royal Purple and read the used oil analyses that are posted. IIRC, they look pretty good. FWIW, the scientists seem to really like the German Castol synthetic.
BTW, even if Mobil has changed the formulation of Mobil 1 to include group III oils in the basestock, it still meets the requirements of fully synthetic. There are actually some benefits to using group III oils in the formulation (performance benefits to user, as well as cost benefits to Mobil) so I'm not writing it off. I will just do the uoa sooner to ensure that it will last as long, since I've been running 12k miles/change.
Visit bobistheoilguy.com and search for Royal Purple and read the used oil analyses that are posted. IIRC, they look pretty good. FWIW, the scientists seem to really like the German Castol synthetic.
BTW, even if Mobil has changed the formulation of Mobil 1 to include group III oils in the basestock, it still meets the requirements of fully synthetic. There are actually some benefits to using group III oils in the formulation (performance benefits to user, as well as cost benefits to Mobil) so I'm not writing it off. I will just do the uoa sooner to ensure that it will last as long, since I've been running 12k miles/change.
I think the RP race oils are the ones worth using, otherwise I think for everyday application, there are better alternatives. Then again I havent studied every single UOA there, but I've read a few threads..