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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Help Problem still there.

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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 10:03 PM
  #1  
spliceman02's Avatar
spliceman02
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Help Problem still there.

I'm back with the same problem!

"Anyone having a problem with their 95 F-150 like this?

Start up, idle goes to 1k, engine light blinks 4 times and idle jumps to 1.5K.
Idle starts to reduce toward 1k again the engine staggers. After that it slows the idle to 800 RPM.

I replaced the EGR valve, plugs and cleaned the fuel idle plates. Replaced the fuel filter.

Hooked to the computer it will not return any error codes.

Any Ideas folks?

Spliceman"

Since I last posted I have exchanged the IAS sensor, disconnected the battery cables (My way of rebooting the computer) and checked out the wirring. All for not. The shop I have been taking it to has no idea what else to do. They have thrown up their hands and cried "Uncle".

Maybe the computer is the problem? Should I jack up the radiator cap and drive another truck under it?

Help,
Spliceman02
 

Last edited by spliceman02; Nov 7, 2006 at 10:07 PM. Reason: Grammer
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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 10:10 PM
  #2  
MemOrex's Avatar
MemOrex
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From: B/CS, Texas!!
Man, that definetly sounds like the computer is going into self-test mode ... Check by the driver side hood hinge... The self-test plug is on that harness, make sure that its not stripped or something and grounding itself out.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 09:52 AM
  #3  
quicklook2's Avatar
quicklook2
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Lakewood, Ohio
if you turn key on with engine not running and the fuel pump stays on for longer than 2 seconds than chances are you need a new computer.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 01:19 PM
  #4  
Old_Paint's Avatar
Old_Paint
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I kinda side with MemOrex. Sounds an awful lot like it's running a KOER test. Has it been in the shop for anything lately? If not, and this problem just showed up by itself, I'd check to make sure something hasn't pinched a wire harness somewhere. I keep seeing "The EEC's bad, Replace it" in here like all of us have a roll of $100 bills in our pockets or something. I say go for the simple stuff first, which is usually the cheapest to fix anyway. Based on my experience with EEC's (take a peek at the junk I own below) it takes a LOT to kill one of them. It's a stretch (literally and figuratively), but perhaps the diagnostic plug got caught in the hinge on the hood or something.

Most of us are in here to save a buck or two, or just simply don't trust dealerships and "certified" mechanics any more. So, obviously, some of us are going to suggest some pretty simple stuff. The EEC's one of the last things I'll point at. They're just too rugged in my experience.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2006 | 02:21 PM
  #5  
spliceman02's Avatar
spliceman02
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Quicklook2 and MemOrex

Thanks everyone. I will follow these leeds and get back to ya.
spliceman02
 
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