lowering my 51
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 78
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From: Indianapolis, IN
lowering my 51
Has any one here tried or seen anyone lower the front end using the original I beam mounted on top of the leafs. I have seen the rear end done this way alot and was thinking of doing the front the same way. A friend of mine fabed a mounting plate to put a rack on his I beam and it drives like a dream now and even looks like it belongs there. I was thinnking of using the same setup but I want mine lower to ground as well. I have done all the measuring and I will have a good three inches of travel above it with using a smaller buffer. I thought before I go thru the trouble I would check and see if anyone here has been there and done that know if it will work or not. I know I will have to fab a plate for the bottom of the I beam and I am planing to use some small pipe between the old plate and the new to keep it from crushing when tightend down. Drilling a new center hole is no problem either. I am more worried about will it hold up to the stress
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
Likes: 13
From: Littleton, New Hampshire
I don't see how you could possibly have three inches of clearance with the axle mounted above the springs. I barely have three inches in the stock location on my 49 F-1. It might be possible if the frame were modified in some way a la "C" notch like is done in the rear but that sounds like more work than just replacing your current axle with a dropped axle. 
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 78
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From: Indianapolis, IN
I will have a small c notch and I forgot to add that the company I work for has a full fab shop where we do custom work on Peterbilt's so my cost and time will be 0. It's time the dounuts I bring in for the shop guy's every morning pay off .lol
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
Likes: 13
From: Littleton, New Hampshire
Ah, yes the old doughnut bribe! Good move. 
You might get away with it with a C-notch. I haven't seen one done that way though. You may also encounter other problems with steering linkage and geometry but I guess with a full fab shop you can take on whatever comes. Good luck with it and take pictures. There may be others here on FTE that might like to try that...
You might get away with it with a C-notch. I haven't seen one done that way though. You may also encounter other problems with steering linkage and geometry but I guess with a full fab shop you can take on whatever comes. Good luck with it and take pictures. There may be others here on FTE that might like to try that...
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
There had been talk around here about doing that in the past, But I don't recall anyone actually going tru with it, at least not that wanted to admit to it. What about oil pan clearance? I really don't know how you can have that much clearance either unless you are still using the original springs or the F1 setup is a lot different from my 56. With my reversed eye slipper springs, I have less than 2" clearance with the springs on top the axle. If I flipped the axle, the frame would be sitting on it, and I'd be decapitating ants with the front bumper while driving down the road.
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 78
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Just a quick udate on fliping the front axle. Yes it can be done with less trouble than I expected. A very small C notch was use just to place the stop level with the bottom of the frame. The 428 I have out of a 68 torino has the oil pan drop in the front so I moved the radiator to the 6cyl holes and moved the engine forward. Clearance is fine (3 3/4) and this also gave me plenty of room in the rear to place a cross member to mount the steering rack. With the axle sitting on the stops it is still 3/4 of an inch from the oil pan. I will post some pic's after all the final welding is done.
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 97,665
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From: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Isn`t it alot easier, quicker and less work to just use dropped spindles? The cost would be more but it`s approven method.
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Indianapolis, IN
I didn't know they made them for the original style I beam. I will look into that but as far as the work not in this case. I just started work on the truck and I have it down to the frame and pulled the original flathead to put in a 428 so moving things around is no problem. Fliping the front axle with the truck being in this stage was by far easier and cheaper than any other front suspension I have done.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Minnesota
If I am reading this correctly you did this with no weight on the front? How much is the front going to drop with weight? My truck barely has 2" with the stock axle, using a reverse eyed leaf springs and a flathead 6.
Originally Posted by 428cobrajet
I didn't know they made them for the original style I beam. I will look into that but as far as the work not in this case. I just started work on the truck and I have it down to the frame and pulled the original flathead to put in a 428 so moving things around is no problem. Fliping the front axle with the truck being in this stage was by far easier and cheaper than any other front suspension I have done.
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Indianapolis, IN
No, there is or should I say was weight on the truck just to see what clearance I had. I put the cab, engine and trans, dog house and radiator back in place with vise grips, c clamps and mechanics wire. I have the original spings on the truck and the measurements where with everything but the bed on the truck. The only worry I have is the bottom of the sping being so low but I can always run a little taller tire if this becomes a problem.
