Rusty Bolts
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 741
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From: Katy(Houston), Texas
Rusty Bolts
I'm dismantaling my front clip and there are some really rusty bolts on that thing. I've been using WD40 and drenching them a couple of times/days before dissasembly. I get them half way off and then they get stuck. I've been somewhat successfull with cranking them on then off (not all the way off, a little further each time) and on few times while spraying them. The problem is it takes a very long time to get one fender off and to take the whole thing apart will be a major job at that rate. Now I have plenty of time on my hands but man that is some tough work. I also thought about just letting them break or cut them off since as far as I can tell these bolts are easily replaceable and I can't really see any need to save them. Please enlighten me if this way of thinking is wrong.
Question: What or how do you all get those loose? Is WD40 the thing to use or is there something better??
Thanks!!
Question: What or how do you all get those loose? Is WD40 the thing to use or is there something better??
Thanks!!
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,190
Likes: 2
From: Riverside, So Cal
PB Blaster works much better than WD-40. Soak it a couple of times the day before, (or even just an hour before), then go at it. That stuff is made just for that. Cuts thru the rust pretty well. You should find it at any parts store.
If you have a compressor, one other method that worked well for me was to just tighten them with a 1/2" drive impact wrench until they broke off. Much quicker. Working alone, I had my whole 56 front clip separated and off the truck in about an hour. I didn't torque off the few bolts that went into captive or welded nuts, though. That just creates a new problem of getting the stud out.
You might also look at taking an entire side off intact (outer fender, inner fender and air dam. That's only about 10 bolts. Then at least you won't be working upside down for the rest of the bolts.
If you have a compressor, one other method that worked well for me was to just tighten them with a 1/2" drive impact wrench until they broke off. Much quicker. Working alone, I had my whole 56 front clip separated and off the truck in about an hour. I didn't torque off the few bolts that went into captive or welded nuts, though. That just creates a new problem of getting the stud out.
You might also look at taking an entire side off intact (outer fender, inner fender and air dam. That's only about 10 bolts. Then at least you won't be working upside down for the rest of the bolts.
Elder User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 966
Likes: 1
From: Too far north of I-10
Originally Posted by Huntsman
...tighten them down until they pop...
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,493
Likes: 7
From: Erie, pa
Originally Posted by Code3
That's what I do on the stubborn ones. I replace all the bolts anyway, so there's no harm in snapping the rusty ones. I try to wear some good gloves though, because that's a real easy way to bust your knuckles.
That "SNAP" can release alot of frustration.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Truth be told, WD 40 is not the best choice for most jobs despite the hype. It's just a lightweight mineral oil in a dispersant. It does not penetrate rust like a penetrating oil (I prefer Liquid Wrench, but PB blaster is very popular, I'll try it next time I need to restock.) nor is it a good lubricating oil since the dispersant makes it attract moisture. It is good for emergency use, such as a stuck lock or to wash away grit and grime like if you drop a lug nut into sandy soil while changing a wheel. It should not be used as a penetrating oil or as permanent lube IMHO.
For very fast rusted fastener removal, invest 30-40.00 in a 4" angle grinder and some 1/16" cutoff wheels. Cut off whichever end of the bolt you can get at easiest. If in a difficult to access spot split the nut by cutting straight into it, then snap it off with a wrench or a smack with a hammer and chisel. You'll find hundreds of uses for the angle grinder so it's a great investment.
For very fast rusted fastener removal, invest 30-40.00 in a 4" angle grinder and some 1/16" cutoff wheels. Cut off whichever end of the bolt you can get at easiest. If in a difficult to access spot split the nut by cutting straight into it, then snap it off with a wrench or a smack with a hammer and chisel. You'll find hundreds of uses for the angle grinder so it's a great investment.
Last edited by AXracer; Nov 6, 2006 at 01:06 PM.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,337
Likes: 165
From: Harpswell Maine
The hot knife (oxy acetylene) is my tool of choice if necessary. Heat the nut up and back it off.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 193
Likes: 1
From: Lakewood, Colorado
Funny you should make this post. I just started taking my front clip off too. I used the penetrating oil available from my local auto parts store, can't remember the brand. My truck is not heavily rusted but some of those bolts were very tough. My solution; put my 6'4", 225 lbs, 19-year old son with a cheater bar on one side and me on the other and twist until the bolt fatigued!
Dave
Dave
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
Likes: 13
From: Littleton, New Hampshire
After the first couple I took off mine wrung off I decided it was easier to wring them off than even try to loosen them so I wrung them all off by tightening them instead of loosening. It made short work of dissassembly. They were too rusty to re-use anyway. 
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,072
Likes: 25
From: San Mateo, CA
As the others said, plan to replace them all. It will save you time and look nicer to boot.
For removal, I first try to loosen with the impact wrench. If that doesn't work, then I go to "tighten" mode on the impact wrench and try to torque the bolt until it breaks. If that doesn't work or if the bolt spins, then it's time for Mr. Cutoff tool.
If you don't have an impact wrench, I would go straight to Mr. Cutoff tool. If you don't have a compressor, then a Dremel tool with a cutoff disc would work. So would an electric grinder on the bolt head, but watch the temperature so you don't warp the sheetmetal around it.
For removal, I first try to loosen with the impact wrench. If that doesn't work, then I go to "tighten" mode on the impact wrench and try to torque the bolt until it breaks. If that doesn't work or if the bolt spins, then it's time for Mr. Cutoff tool.
If you don't have an impact wrench, I would go straight to Mr. Cutoff tool. If you don't have a compressor, then a Dremel tool with a cutoff disc would work. So would an electric grinder on the bolt head, but watch the temperature so you don't warp the sheetmetal around it.
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 22,000
Likes: 9,890
From: Rio Rancho, NM
All great tips, however you guys failed to mention a couple of essentials;
First off, make sure you have a large quantity of frosty beverages on hand
Second, make sure there are no young or impressionable children nearby, ok, good, now as fast as you can cuss for a good strong 2 minutes using every blue word in your vocabulary as fast as you can without taking a breath. Repeat this several times until you have it down (feel free to make up new words)
third, get your hands on a course wood rasp, grasping it firlmy in first on hand, and then the other, take it and make several swipes across your knuckles, elbows, across your forehead, etc
fourth, practice jumping around on one foot while madly swinging your hand back and forth (once you have practiced the second step, feel free to add it here).
OK, now you're ready to tackle taking a front clip apart.
Isn't it amazing how many bolts ol' tightwad Henry used to hold a front clip together??
Bobby
First off, make sure you have a large quantity of frosty beverages on hand
Second, make sure there are no young or impressionable children nearby, ok, good, now as fast as you can cuss for a good strong 2 minutes using every blue word in your vocabulary as fast as you can without taking a breath. Repeat this several times until you have it down (feel free to make up new words)
third, get your hands on a course wood rasp, grasping it firlmy in first on hand, and then the other, take it and make several swipes across your knuckles, elbows, across your forehead, etc
fourth, practice jumping around on one foot while madly swinging your hand back and forth (once you have practiced the second step, feel free to add it here).
OK, now you're ready to tackle taking a front clip apart.
Isn't it amazing how many bolts ol' tightwad Henry used to hold a front clip together??
Bobby
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,355
Likes: 0
From: I live in Mustang, OK
Just started taking mine apart this afternoon. Took the front end off the truck a while back in one piece. Thought i'd work on it after supper but after all that jumpin cussin and bleedin up above I'm to tired now. Think i'll just hang around and read a while. Sure hope mine are easier to get off than yalls were. Good luck
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 532
Likes: 1
From: Athens, GA, USA
As Willard mentioned, there's nothing quite like the ole "gas wrench". AX is right on with the 4" angle grinder. I took off my running boards with mine. Bobby, you just crack me up.
I think all of the tips have merit and as for a penetrating oil, the PB Blaster gets my vote every time.
Off to get a Frosty.
I think all of the tips have merit and as for a penetrating oil, the PB Blaster gets my vote every time.
Off to get a Frosty.
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
From: Indianapolis, IN
Originally Posted by 49willard
The hot knife (oxy acetylene) is my tool of choice if necessary. Heat the nut up and back it off.