clutch installation problems
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New User
Joined: Nov 2006
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clutch installation problems
I recently installed my new clutch in my 99 ford ranger. I cannot seem to get the clutch to work as if there is air trapped. I have tried bleeding with no success. Any suggestions.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2006
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Two ways to do this...
1> (revised ford procedure) Take loose the line from the slave... bleed the line first, pushing into it to release the valve, and having someone else operate the pedal. When no more air comes out of the line, reattach it to the slave and RAPIDLY push and release the clutch pedal repeatedly for a couple minutes.. then bleed it at the bleeder of the slave... repeat until all is good.
2> I've heard of success by taking the master apart and bleeding it through that way, but I've never tried it that way myself, so I can't vouch for its effectiveness.
Good luck
1> (revised ford procedure) Take loose the line from the slave... bleed the line first, pushing into it to release the valve, and having someone else operate the pedal. When no more air comes out of the line, reattach it to the slave and RAPIDLY push and release the clutch pedal repeatedly for a couple minutes.. then bleed it at the bleeder of the slave... repeat until all is good.
2> I've heard of success by taking the master apart and bleeding it through that way, but I've never tried it that way myself, so I can't vouch for its effectiveness.
Good luck
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 537
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From: Yes
Just got done using method 2, and yes, it works. Don't expect the under-dash work to be easy, it's cramped to say the least. Still, it works. You have to pull the rod off at the pedal, remove the cutout switch, release the master cyl from the support frame, pull the rod clear and drop it down where you can see in the end, remove the retainer clip, pull the rod/piston assembly out, and tilt the mouth upward, letting the fluid displace the air (make sure your reservior is full), and my advice is to only partly remove the piston, or else fluid will spill out and empty the reservoir VERY quickly. When you're done and have it back together, re-bleed the system as you normally would, and all should be good. We had the same problem, we bled and re-bled, probably ran a quart of brake fluid through the system, until we finally decided to try this, and that was all it took! Just food for thought.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,417
Likes: 3
From: Durham, NC
I've also heard of removing the master cylinder from the firewall, and angle the end of it up, and this will help bleed them. I have no idea why Ford would design the clutch master cylinder angled "down", where air will get trapped in the back.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,651
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From: Maine
Probably the same reason they put the slave cylinder somewhere you need to take the tranny out to replace it. 
I, too, have had success bleeding it by taking the push rod part way out of the MC. It is very tight under there, I made it marginally easier to work by removing the plastic knee panel, and taking off the metal one might have been worth it, too, with hindsight.
I, too, have had success bleeding it by taking the push rod part way out of the MC. It is very tight under there, I made it marginally easier to work by removing the plastic knee panel, and taking off the metal one might have been worth it, too, with hindsight.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,208
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I just finished changing the slave clyinder on my 2003 all I did was with the tank cap off was to open the bleeder on the slave and let the fluid run(drip) for a 30 secs or so then topped off the tank put the cap back on and pumped pedal 5 or 6 times per manuals instructions and everthing was good to go. And yes some engineer should get to spend eternity changing out slave clyinders where you have to pull the tranny to make the change. If Ford had such good idea why didn't they use it.
New User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 21
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I too was subject to the "trial and error" process in bleeding these clutches! I ended up buying a new master cylinder only to find out that it was ford's stupidity in designing a master cylinder that is tilted upward and traps air in the top. I ended up taking the cylinder, resivior, and hose all out of the vehicle, assembling them as one piece, then I pumped the clutch upside down with the rod on the ground and a friend of mine pushing the little tab on the check valve that plugs into the slave cylinder. It only took 5 minutes to bleed the thing after spending 3 or 4 hours trying to bleed it in the vehicle. It was a little tricky getting the whole setup back in the vehicle in one piece, especially with the resivior attached, but all in all it didn't take nearly as much time as i wasted before doing this.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 819
Likes: 2
From: Northern Maine
My Dad has a 1988 F-150 4x4 that has an external slave. It has a 4 speed instead of a 5 speed and the slave is bolted to the outside of the bell housing. It looks like about a 45 minute job to swap out the slave. Ford can do it, they just choose not to.
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