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Turbo Removal Problem

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Old Nov 4, 2006 | 05:23 AM
  #1  
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94_IDI
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Cool Turbo Removal Problem

I have a 1994 7.3L IDI Factory turbo

I'm in the process of upgrading my w/g housing, exhaust housing and downpipe. I am trying to remove the turbo for the upgrade/install.

I have most everything off/loose except I can't get the wye-pipe separated from the up-pipe. I have tried liquid wrench, prybar, re-attached the cross-over pipe to pull wriggle, etc. It's a very tough spot to get leverage with minimal clearance. It looks to me like they have to be separated to be removed - not enough clearance to remove the thing whole. I'd drop the up-pipe from the turbo but the tin heat shield prevents access to the nuts.

Damn, no luck on it tonight.....it's after 2 AM and I'm beat.

If any of you have experience / ideas getting these buggers separated please post.....I'll be back at it in the morning....but I'll check here first.

Thanks for the help.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2006 | 05:59 AM
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the y pipe is attached to the engine with 2 studs at the passenger manifold and 2 bolts at the crossover. the up pipe is an interferrence fit into the casting. spray some wd 40 into the connection and try tapping on the little flange that holds the up pipe to the s bracket and the y casting. wiggle, grunt, tap, wiggle.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2006 | 10:11 AM
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I had the same problem. I removed all of it at once without splitting it. It made it a 2 man job.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2006 | 11:56 AM
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The last one I pulled took many hours. Leave the turbo all together except for the down pipe, drain casting nuts, pressure chamber bolt and the oil line. Leave the up casting attached to the right exh manifold. Start spraying WD on the ball socket where the two castings come together. With the turbo otherwise unbolted start prying it up and down, left and right. Then spray it again, then wiggle again, etc....

Keep this up for an hour or two and you'll eventually grind up enough rust that it will slide up and off the lower 'up' casting. It's a work out but the turbo assy should come out of there. Then go get a lower back massage from the other half.

Hopefully you've been at it long enough where all these directions make sense.
 

Last edited by Spectramac; Nov 4, 2006 at 12:12 PM.
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Old Nov 4, 2006 | 12:39 PM
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Question

Originally Posted by polish
I had the same problem. I removed all of it at once without splitting it. It made it a 2 man job.
Polish / others -

Can you elaborate how you did that? I may have to do the same.

I assume you had to disconnect it from the turbo first to remove the up-pipe and wye-pipe together in one piece, is that correct?

Or can you leave it connected to the turbo if you remove the passenger side exhaust manifold??

Thanks,
 
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Old Nov 4, 2006 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Spectramac
The last one I pulled took many hours. Leave the turbo all together except for the down pipe, drain casting nuts, pressure chamber bolt and the oil line. Leave the up casting attached to the right exh manifold. Start spraying WD on the ball socket where the two castings come together. With the turbo otherwise unbolted start prying it up and down, left and right. Then spray it again, then wiggle again, etc....

Keep this up for an hour or two and you'll eventually grind up enough rust that it will slide up and off the lower 'up' casting. It's a work out but the turbo assy should come out of there. Then go get a lower back massage from the other half.

Hopefully you've been at it long enough where all these directions make sense.
Spectramac- thanks for the info that all does make sense on how you did it - hopefully it'll work for me. So basically you're keeping the wye-pipe solidly bolted to the exhasust flange while prying/moving the turbo assy. Is that correct?

Otherwise I may have to try to remove it all as one piece as Polish did- it sure seems tight for that though.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2006 | 01:43 PM
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Yeah, leave the casting bolted to the exhaust manifold. That keeps it stiff so you can work the turbo around above it. I also used a long punch from under the truck to hit up on the edge of the upper casting to get the turbo half of it moving upwards. Then spray, then go up above and work it around till it gets loose, then back under and start the process again. Eventually, you'll go up on top and give it a wiggle and it'll just pop off. You'll be sore tomorrow though.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2006 | 04:58 PM
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The only thing I had to do was disconnect the oil drain from the turbo. There is two 3/8 bolts holding it on. Then it will all come out without disconnecting the two piece up pipe.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2006 | 09:30 PM
  #9  
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Thanks for your help guys - I finally got the up-pipe off and removed the turbo. It took lots of repetitive shots of liquid wrench, propoane torch, hammer, and elbow grease......I'll definately be sore. Iv'e got the new houstings installed and finshed mounting the turbo. Now I'm starting on replacing the exhaust with 4" from the downpipe back.

Thanks again for the help......

BTW polish there's no way mine would come out w/o separating the up-pipe from the turbo.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2006 | 11:06 PM
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Sounds like you had fun. Hmmm maybe I will just change the waste gate housing if that would work. Let me know if you think it was worth it.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2006 | 08:07 PM
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A little off the problem at hand

hello all,
the problem i'v got is the slip fit between the wye and the turbo is the opposit of all of yours, its leaking!!. theres about a 1/4" gap between the two casting nubs, its still in about 1/2" i would guess. Nothing looks like it has moved to make this happen, and i dont belive the turbo has ever been removed. Got the pickup with 166000 mi and now has 276000 mi. the leak started about 15000 mi ago. iv tried losening all the exhaust, the wye, crossover and manafolds to push it back up but it dosent work. If anyoun has had this problem, or any sugestions they would be greatly appriciated,

Thanks

1993 F-350 7.3 IDI Factory Turbo
 
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