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Old Nov 13, 2006 | 08:54 AM
  #16  
Offshor3's Avatar
Offshor3
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From: Livingston RV Park
I will be changing my hoses soon. I'll flush and fill then. Please tell me what additive I should add to the distalled water and how much coolent to add. Do I need to get this coolent from the Ford dealer?
 
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Old Nov 13, 2006 | 09:35 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Offshor3
I will be changing my hoses soon. I'll flush and fill then. Please tell me what additive I should add to the distalled water and how much coolent to add. Do I need to get this coolent from the Ford dealer?
Look in your owners manual and see what the capacity of your system is. But enough coolant for 50% concentration and about 15 jugs (gallons) of distilled water.

Flush your system several times (drain, refill, run until at temp) and repeat. Eventually you will have only distileld water in your system. It should be flowing 100% clear to ensure 100% flush. I just disconnect the lower radiator hose each time to drain (then re-attached). Make sure you flush and clean your overflow bottle as well.

After last time, drain lower radiator hose/radiator and re-connect.

Your system needs a 50/50% concentration of antifreeze and water... so divide how many quarts or gallons your system is (from manual) and add antifreeze to get you to 50%.

Top off remaining system with distilled water and you now have a flushed system with 50% coolant and 50% distilled water!!!!

Add your coolant additve as well (just a small bottle) and buy it from the dealer. Use any green coolant you want... just make sure it is not the pre-mix stuff.

Run your motor until the thermostat opens and then let it cool. You may have to top off with a little more distilled water if there were any air bubbles that worked themselves through and if you need to top off your over flow bottle. Double check for the next day or too to ensure no air bubbles and keep an eye on the temp guage just in case.

Distilled water has no minerals so it does not form calcium deposits and other "stuff" in your system.

Good luck,
 
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Old Nov 13, 2006 | 03:29 PM
  #18  
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From: KY
You are probably ok. Cavitation comes from cylinder walls flexing during the power stroke. This causes a void which causes air bubbles that blow against the cylinder walls and causes the pitting. Wet liner engines are bad about it beacause the cyl liner just sits in the block there is no structural support. Your engine is a parent bore block. It is structuralty stable. It also has alot to do with how power you are making because that will determine how much stress you are putting on your cyl. walls. Just put your additive in the coolant. Don't put to much. It can cause hot spots in your block. The coating can get to thick on the block walls. I always have to fix them because it didn't have enough. The additive doesn't stop the cavitation it provides a coating that the air bubbles can beat on instead of your block. Hopes this helps. I you are really concerned knock out your freeze plugs and check the walls yourself. With a small mirror you can see alot. Later
 
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Old Nov 13, 2006 | 03:36 PM
  #19  
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From: Livingston RV Park
Thanks for all the info. I once read a book named Bubbles can be trouble, about bubbles causing problems with props on large motor vessels.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2006 | 04:15 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Offshor3
Thanks for all the info. I once read a book named Bubbles can be trouble.
I once saw a movie by the same title.... boy it was a good movie if you know what I mean.
 
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