Help! Big Time Problem! Please look!
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Help! Big Time Problem! Please look!
Hi Everyone. I just went out the parking lot to get to the doctor in my '95 4cyl 2wd 5speed (w/135k on it). I go to start it, and nothing happens, other than the normal electonics turning over. It's like it doesn't sense I am pushing the clutch pedal in or something. I have tried starting it in neutral, and 1st...nothing happens other than the normal gauges and radio turn on. The battery is brand new. It started fine this morning. The only thing I see is that that little clutch resivoir is about 1/3 full. Could that be it? I am not a mechanic, but that's the only thing I see at the moment.
Please help!!!
Thanks!
Dave
Please help!!!
Thanks!
Dave
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From: Maine
Nothing to do with the clutch reservoir- the safety switch is on the push rod from the pedal to the MC.
I've never heard of it happening with a Ranger, but the F-series sometimes would develop enough slop in the pedal assembly that stepping on the pedal wouldn't move the switch far enough to start the truck. MAKE SURE THE TRUCK IS IN NEUTRAL! then reach under the dash and grab hold of the clutch safety switch and slide it against the spring (I'm fairly sure that is up, but not 100%) and then try starting the truck while you hold it.
Why did you replace the battery?
I've never heard of it happening with a Ranger, but the F-series sometimes would develop enough slop in the pedal assembly that stepping on the pedal wouldn't move the switch far enough to start the truck. MAKE SURE THE TRUCK IS IN NEUTRAL! then reach under the dash and grab hold of the clutch safety switch and slide it against the spring (I'm fairly sure that is up, but not 100%) and then try starting the truck while you hold it.
Why did you replace the battery?
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The other battery was six years old and had it tested. It was just about dead.
Anyway, so are you saying that it's probably the "clutch master switch"? Is that something that I can easily fix in a parking lot? Right now, it's pouring outside!
Anyway, so are you saying that it's probably the "clutch master switch"? Is that something that I can easily fix in a parking lot? Right now, it's pouring outside!
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From: Maine
Not really. You asked about the clutch switch (I think the technical name is Clutch Pedal Position sensor or something like that...), so I gave you the only way I know to test it. (These silly new trucks have too many wires to just bypass the switch...)
IIRC, the part is expensive (>$100), and even if that's your problem, it probably isn't a bad switch but a mechanical problem preventing it from moving far enough to allow the truck to start. If the truck is behaving like you didn't step on the clutch, I'd try moving the switch by hand to see if it started, but I wouldn't bet on that being the problem.
*Reason I asked about the battery is I was wondering if it was replaced in an attempt to cure whatever the current problem is, but it doesn't sound that way. I'd still consider the possibility that the problem and the new battery are related, if it's REALLY new.
IIRC, the part is expensive (>$100), and even if that's your problem, it probably isn't a bad switch but a mechanical problem preventing it from moving far enough to allow the truck to start. If the truck is behaving like you didn't step on the clutch, I'd try moving the switch by hand to see if it started, but I wouldn't bet on that being the problem.
*Reason I asked about the battery is I was wondering if it was replaced in an attempt to cure whatever the current problem is, but it doesn't sound that way. I'd still consider the possibility that the problem and the new battery are related, if it's REALLY new.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Morris Plains, NJ
I usually have this type of problem on my motorcycle, because there are so many switches/relays in the starter path (clutch position, neutral safety switch, kickstand position switch, kill switch, key). I agree with jd on testing the clutch switch.
Another possibility is the starter solenoid. I used to be able to short that sucker out with a big screwdriver to get it cranked when it went bad on my '89 Sable. Someone might think that you are stealing the truck though.
Looks like this:
Starter Solenoid
-Jim
Another possibility is the starter solenoid. I used to be able to short that sucker out with a big screwdriver to get it cranked when it went bad on my '89 Sable. Someone might think that you are stealing the truck though.
Looks like this:
Starter Solenoid
-Jim
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PSKSAM2:
You hit the nail on the head! It was the starter solenoid. I was able to get it started and drove it to the repair shop (grrrrrr). I was in my work clothes and just didn't have the time to fix. $50 out the door. Not too horrible.
Thanks everyone for their help!
Dave
You hit the nail on the head! It was the starter solenoid. I was able to get it started and drove it to the repair shop (grrrrrr). I was in my work clothes and just didn't have the time to fix. $50 out the door. Not too horrible.
Thanks everyone for their help!
Dave
Laughing Gas
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From: Morris Plains, NJ
Nice! Glad to hear you got it going.
If it is a fender mounted solenoid, you got stabbed on the labor as they are only $8~$16 at Rock Auto. The starter mounted ones are $41~$43. But I totally understand that on certain days/times that $50 is more than worth it, though it sounds like you bought lunch for the entire shop. At least you didn't have to pay them to diagnose it!
Now, you can send the check for the diagnostic time to me at....j/k. Put it into an FTE membership!
-Jim
If it is a fender mounted solenoid, you got stabbed on the labor as they are only $8~$16 at Rock Auto. The starter mounted ones are $41~$43. But I totally understand that on certain days/times that $50 is more than worth it, though it sounds like you bought lunch for the entire shop. At least you didn't have to pay them to diagnose it!
Now, you can send the check for the diagnostic time to me at....j/k. Put it into an FTE membership!
-Jim
Last edited by PSKSAM2; Nov 1, 2006 at 02:11 PM.
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It was both the starter and the started solenoid! I could have fixed it myself, but I work 25 miles from home, and there was a repair shop right near me. Yes, it totally sucked to pay $240 (for a new, not rebuilt starter, and solenoid, including tax and labor), but I got home! Hey, it was almost 12 years on the originals, not too bad.
I did see the stater they pulled out. It was shot to hell. I am surprised I got it started this morning. I will just have to put off my shocks for another day.
I did see the stater they pulled out. It was shot to hell. I am surprised I got it started this morning. I will just have to put off my shocks for another day.
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Just something to think about if it happens again.... I had the same problem on my 94 Ranger. Replaced both the starter and solenoid....still nothing. Had to have it picked up and delivered to the shop I usually use. He found that the large wire that runs from the solenoid to the starter had an INTERNAL break somewhere in the length of the wire. I had purchased this truck from my brother-in-law and know that he had changed the starter twice before I bought it. All along it was probably the wire that was bad. When the starter was replaced he probably moved the wire enough for the break to close and make contact again.
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Guess what? It just happened again in the Wal-Mart parking lot! Luckily, I had a screwdriver with me and touched the 2 contacts on the solenoid and it started right up. I got it to my local repair shop. They think that it may be the ignition, as opposed to the wire, but will look at both. I am awaiting the results.