Ok, I've been trying to decide where exactly I should start with my 54 build up so Im posting this to all the experienced experts that went before me. I plan on doing a IFS swap but I haven't decided if I'm going for a MII or one of the other such as Volaire or Jag ect. I also need to do mounts for my engine and transmission, but I'm not sure if I must do one before the other. I have the engine and transmission in my garage so that woundn't be a problem and it would be nice to get that done. The IFS will take getting funds together so it's not going to happen very soon. It would be nice to do the engine and trans in the mean time until the IFS is doable.

What do you think...would it be a good idea to do the drive train first??

 

I wouldn't even mess with installing the engine and tranny until I got the IFS swap complete. If you get your engine and tranny mounts in there now, you will be redoing them again when you do the IFS swap, especially if you go with a Volare. What engine/tranny are you going to use?

 

I'm have a 351w and FMX auto tranny.

 

i didn't know there was a Build Order.. i just went at it.. lol

but I agree.. If you are going to do any kind of new IFS you need to basically pull the entire front end off all the way down to the frame rails.. Do not worry about the running gear until you are completely done with the IFS

If you want to do the IFS here is an idea of an order:

1. tear apart front end all the way down to frame rails and cab
2. mount/weld/install your IFS
3. figure out your steering column location etc...
4. Mock up your steering column linkages (you need this done before you install running gear or you will have a heck of a time finding headers that fit)
5. Mock up your engine/transmission WITH the headers on it so yuo can gain clearance for steering..
6. Make your Cross members and engine mounts..


ta-da

 

i would go a slightly different way, yank the old box/motor/front end, slip the new front wheels/suspension under and align the wheels with the centre of the wheel opening at the desired ride height, then yank the sheet metal and fit the engine/trans, then sort the springs, this will do away with the ugly nose heavy look henry gave them, using the bump stops isn't good enough if u r fussy.
cya....gary

 

I can not speak for a 351W and the different IFS. If it was a sbc and a JAG IFS, either route would work. One member on this forum put the Jag in a 55 with a 390. The age old Ford problem with the front sump oil pans required a lot of pan/oil pump pickup surgury. I would ask the question who has done which IFS setups with the 351W.

 

If you are doing a frame off, there is plenty to do while you are saving up for the IFS. It's always rewarding to install a major component, but sometimes it's better to walk before you run.
IMHO, the Jag install is the most cost efective IFS of all the possibilities, and the best as far as ride and handling. If you can find a full donor vehicle the IRS is also transplantable and you'll have a sportscar in truck clothing. The rest of the car can offer a lot of small and dress up parts you can use as well.
With any IFS you will need to address the pan sump issue as stated, so there's something else to work on. Meanwhile spend any and all extra time on cleaning up, repairing, sanding, painting, making the millions of decisions that are needed. Having as complete a plan as possible will save you from many false starts and having to redo work already done.

 

I would do the IFS first then the engine and transmission. When you get the engine and transmission mocked in place and before you weld the mounts be sure that whatever exhaust manifolds or headers you plan to use and your steering column and linkage will clear the steering box and engine mounts. Sometimes an inch higher/lower or to the right will give you the clearance you need but once it's welded in it's harder to change.

 

What is the problem with the pan sumps? I'm not familiar with this issue. Also, like 49Willard suggested: has anyone done the Jag IFS swap with a 351w. Axracer it would be great to find an entire car but I'm limited on space with a two car garage. I'm jealous of you guys with "mini shops" on your property...some poeple are so spoiled....hahahaaa...LOL

 

The Ford smallblock family all use a front sump oil pan which puts the sump and any IFS crossmember trying to exist in the same space at the same time. Since we still haven't solved the space/time continuem to allow that to happen we need to solve it in a different way.
Fortunately Ford ran into the same problem when it put the FSB in the Bronco way back when before the word SUV had been invented. It still keeps the replacement pan and relocated oilpump pickup on the parts shelf. It is commonly refered to as a double sump or rear sump pan. You will need this pan if you want to install an IFS. The clearances will still be a little tight depending on the crossmember so it's best to have the crossmember installed and this pan on the engine before planning the engine mounts. If you retain the beam axle, there is no interference issues with whatever pan you want to use.
I've worked outside for the last 26 years, I'll be moving Gracie into my (a bit oversized) 2 car garage for the first time probably sometime next week. In fact my lot is on a good slope so there was only one car sized reasonably level spot in the whole yard behind the house, and an unpaved driveway that sloped 9' to the street. Where there's a will there's a way. Bring the car home before a long weekend, strip it down and call the boneyard to come pick up the hulk before the neighbors even know it's there.

 

Sounds like some good advice Ax...

 

A plasma cutter or flame axe can make quick work of dismantaling a donor, just be sure you don't cut thru something you'll want later.

 

You can also buy the oil pan kit from Ford motorsports for installing a 351W in the fox body Mustang (small front sump and large rear sump). What ever you do make sure the oil pan is for a 351W the 302 oil pan is smaller.

I have pictures of my engine mounts in my gallery if you care to look. The truck is a 56 with a volare frt susp and a 351W/AOD. The engine is off set to the right (pass side) approx 1 inch.

If I were you the first thing would be the suspension and steering (to do the steering it may help to have the engine in place) then the engine and trans (to do the engine and trans it will help if you have the cab in place along with the rad and have the fan on the engine or rad if electric)

Chuck