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73 F100 360 Mechanical Advance

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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 11:33 AM
  #16  
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Headed back to pull a part soon then. Should have gotten the annual pass. I have probably paid for it by now.... All the other ignition parts are new and gapped to specs. Even have a new coil on it.

Checker would be Schucks here in the Seattle area so will check with them later today on the pick up coil version... Is there one available for the 73 or do I just need to get one for a 76 and put it in with the duraspark??
 
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 11:40 AM
  #17  
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Will need to go with a 1976 F series (F100, F150 or F250) with a 360 FE or 390 FE engine. These was the last year they had FE engines in trucks and these engines was the first year they had Duraspark ignition system.

Here the website http://www.cskauto.com/

Originally Posted by LFDavidson
Disconnect the vac advance (block the hose) and bring the idle up, the light is pretty steady (varies maybe 3 deg) right where it is set for initial timing.
A bit of slack on timing chain is what is noticed.
It seems to run the best (smoothest) at idle (no vac advance) anywhere from the 20 deg up to about 36 deg. Either side of that band and it falls off.
What happens when timing is set to 10 degrees BTC? The base timing is currently set at 20 to 36 degrees and the engine idles and runs smoothly with the vacuum advance disconnected? What happens when the vacuum timing advance is connected? I'm wondering if the harmonic balancer is wrong?
If I had a nice warm shop to work on it and the extra bucks,
i do all my work outside too.
 

Last edited by 1975Ford; Nov 1, 2006 at 11:55 AM.
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 11:59 AM
  #18  
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Not sure what happened to my reply so this might be a duplicate: All the other ignition parts are new and gapped to specs. Even has a new coil.

Checker here would be Schuck's so will check there later today. Do they have a dizzy with a pickup coil to go with the Duraspark module for the 73 or do I just need to get one for a 76 and put it in directly? Will be headed to Pull A Part shortly to see if there is a Duraspark module and harness around. Those go pretty fast I think.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 01:52 PM
  #19  
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Oh, I see.. The reply went to a page 2... Anyway, at 10 BTC it starts to run rough and idle drops off... With timing set to between 20 and 36 and the vac advance disconnected (and plugged) it seems to run smooth at idle... When the vac advance is connected it picks up a little idle speed and if I increase the throttle it advances...
 
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 02:11 PM
  #20  
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Distributor with pickup coil for a FE engine: 1976 Ford F150 with 360 or 390 will fit the 352 FE.

I'm just wondering why the timing is so 26 degrees off. Is it possible the timing gears were installed incorrectly or jumped a tooth? or the timing cover was swapped at one time? How's the rubber between the harmonic balancer?

One thing for sure the current distributor on your truck, as you have posted is good.
The electronic ignition would be an upgrade at this time.
 

Last edited by 1975Ford; Nov 1, 2006 at 02:54 PM.
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 02:31 PM
  #21  
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From: "Islander"
If you know the cam specs, checked the damper's zero degree markings to piston at TDC. Pulled the valve cover and installed a dial indicator you would know the cam to crank relationship. From there after your back in spec with worn or broken parts replaced them go into the dizzy. You must have more than one problem, nothing personal.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 02:32 PM
  #22  
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But the dizzy doesn't seem to mechanically advance on its own so that's why I thought maybe something is wrong with it.. I do have the weak spring set that Mr Gasket sells for recurving.. Guess I could put them on and see if it mechanically advances. Is there such as thing as a coil pick up conversion kit for this dizzy???

As far as I know this is all stock as it was my Dad's old truck and he wasn't into changing much from stock.. I suppose it is possible that my mother got sold some work she didn't need after my dad passed away... Haven't examined the balancer yet.. Anybody know how many degrees from the keyway to TDC would be correct so I can see if it slipped or is the wrong one.?? As far as jumping a tooth, I am concerned with that since I get 22 to 24 deg of crank rotation without any dizzy shaft rotation... Haven't pulled it down to the timing gears so don't know if they are offset..
 
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 02:48 PM
  #23  
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From: "Islander"
Sounds like it's wash down time then start taking it apart and replace the timing set. If you don't have damper puller, borrow or rent one from the parts store.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 02:53 PM
  #24  
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Might want to give the engine a compression test before the tear down, verify those compression numbers for each cylinder.
Those number will give you notice if it is time for an engine rebuild too, or some other problem exists.
I agree, need to look at the timing gears and make sure they line-up.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 02:57 PM
  #25  
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From: Mddl A MexCans
I will agree with the compression test. Had I done that from the start would have saved some 50hrs of farting around and at least $120.00 perfectly good billiard money
 
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 04:16 PM
  #26  
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Not much at the Pull A Part yard today. A 72 truck with a Duraspark (blue label but no connectory, probably Duraspark I) and a 78 LTDII (400 I think) with a Duraspark (blue connector but no label). Part number on the 72 is D8VE-12A199-A2C. The part number on the 78 LTD looks like it is the same but the box looks different and has the connector.

I think I will change the advance springs with the Mr Gasket kit and see if I get any mechanical advance then see where I stand. Next step would be to pull the fuel pump and try to check the timing chain that way..
 
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 04:49 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 1975Ford
Some ignition module will have a green, black, brown and blue grommet, get the one with the blue grommet, it's a better ignition module. The grommet color is located where the wires come out of the ignition module.
Not sure if I had confused you as to where the color was located on ignition module. The color is at the base of ignition module, the grommet is where the wires come out of ignition module box (base), check this grommet color, where the wires go into the ignition module box.

At the pick and pull, find the a harness that runs directly form ignition module to distributor. Get this complete harness including the two wire harness that plugs into the ignition module 2 wire harness.
Some of these wiring harness run in cab then back out, those wil work but need some modifications.
 

Last edited by 1975Ford; Nov 1, 2006 at 04:52 PM.
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 06:08 PM
  #28  
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After looking at some pics, I think the grommet for the one on the 72 is underneath it and not visible as it looks like the wires just come from underneath (did a quick stop to see what was there so didn't have my tools)... The one on the 78 LTD has a blue grommet and looks like the number is the same as the one on the 72... Checking the internet for the part number from the 72, it says that it is a Duraspark II... Everything is there including the dizzy but haven't checked to see if is stuck or not... Would that be the right one..??.. Did they have Duraspark II in 72 or might this be a conversion from a later model??
 
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 06:13 PM
  #29  
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The ignition module could have been swapped at one time. The blue grommet the one needed.

Here a handy site with valuable information http://www.motorcraft.com/index.jsp
it will have what vehicles came with with parts and other info.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 06:37 PM
  #30  
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Thinking maybe I should go grab it before its gone... The 72 appears to be a 360...
 
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