My truck seems to blow smoke only in second gear when accelerating from a stop. It is light blue/grey. It will also smoke when going up a hill. I understand the amount of smoke if I floor it but this is slow/moderate acceleration. This afternoon I replaced the air filter and cleaned the CDR.
What things should I look at first?

 

Your IP might need replacing?

 

PLEASE don't take this wrong, but why is it that replacing the $450 pump is so often the first thing so many people suggest?

Again, no offence intended bc6.9, and I'm not trying to single you out, or call you out or anything like that, because it isn't just you. There are a number of people on the board here who often make the same recommendation.

I understand that the pumps fail, but most of what I've read indicates that they are usually good for somewhere between 100k & 200k miles, and some go well over 200k miles.

When I got my truck it smoked and clattered and had no power. The recommendation was to replace the pump, and I even bought one. Fortunately I tried a few other things before replacing it, because the pump wasn't bad - it was just 180* out of time. If I had put a new one on it wouldn't have solved the problem at all.

After getting the pump back 180* it ran much better, but still smoked on deceleration. Again, several people made the same recommendation - replace the pump. A little more investigation revealed it could be a timing issue - and it turned out that it was timed about 10* too slow. Spectramac helped me correct that and now it runs pretty good, just idles a little rough.

To fix the rough idle several folks recommended replacing injectors - about the second most expensive part in the system. I put a good dose of Diesel Kleen in the fuel, and the more I drive it the better it seems to be getting.

None of this is to say that I may not end up needing to replace the pump, and/or the injectors eventually. Just to say that replacing expensive parts isn't always the best first step in diagnosing or fixing problems. There are a number of other diagnostic steps to try first - things that cost little or even nothing but time to try.

Again, PLEASE, don't ANYONE take me wrong. I'm still a noob with a LOT to learn from the folks around here. I just want to suggest that it is often a good idea to try the less expensive diagnostic steps first before replacing expensive parts.

2001cougs, is it using any oil? Has it improved at all after servicing the CDR and air cleaner? Any possibility of air intrusion? I've seen other threads saying that air mixed with the fuel will produce white/blue smoke.

Another possibility is that it could have dirty/sticky fuel injectors. For that the first thing I'd try is to run a couple of tanks of fuel - with a good dose of Diesel Kleen or something similar in it - through it and see if it improves.

If the problem still persists then next I think I'd have the timing checked at a reputable diesel repair shop (or by someone like Spectramac ).

Just my $.02

 

Cheaper, you must be a good typer, I just use the two finger method and I'm really slow, it pains my daughter to watch me type....I'm not diesel mechanic but I stumble my way around.....so if I give an opinion, its just that. It looks like you needed to vent, and I hope you feel better for it, as for me, well like I said, I'm a really slow typer.

 

Yeah, I kinda' did need to vent. Sorry if it seemed like I was going off on you - that wasn't my intent.

I get a lot of practice typing, so yeah, I'm fairly good at it and fairly fast.

If typing is somthing you struggle with, I guess I can understand what you're saying about giving the shortest answer possible.

Again, no offence intended. The main point I wasnted to make is that replacing the most expensive parts in the system isn't usually the best first step.

 

i got on here to post my problem but it sounds like you guys might be able to help i have a 87 F-250 with the 6.9 and it started feeling like a real loss of power here lately and now it wont rev up over 2500 rpms in nuetral it shakes and smokes black like you wouldnt believe and i dont know anything about diesel engines can you guys please help me?

 

lets start with the cheepest way out for bsttc change fuel filter and run some diesel kleen gry thru her this is a comon deal for the nights are starting to get colder and the fuel will start to jell soner also look at the return lines or also called the slober lines the black hoses runnig off the injecters do you see any fuel on the top or around the injecters if so get a injeter install kit comes with all new o rings and cooper washers and 3/16 hose do one side at a time becarful with the steel lines just lift up enough to remove all caps on one side at a time make new ith pat off old set install o rings put sometype of petro jelly on them and install caps they will snap when fully seated then do the othe side

 

dwaymar, have you been talking to cheaper, just kidding, good advice.

 

Thank you very much i really appreciate it the truck has been sitting a while but it has always been the most reliable truck on the farm it just makes me sick to see it not running right i will replace the fuel filter and let yall know if it helps. You do mean the one onthe top of the motor buy the intake right?

 

that's right on top behind the alt. its a good idea to change it at least every other oil change. I change mind every time because of the dusty condition i work in. and use good filters (I like wix but donalson,fleetguard, motorcraft, or IH are good also) good filters may be a little more $ but the they protect alot more expensive stuff.

 

well i changed the fuel filter and its still the same any other ideas?

thanks.

 

Check the IP timing...

 

how do you do that?
thanks.

 

bsttc,

First off get the truck up to running temperature. Get a test light or voltmeter and a three foot jumper wire. Remove the cold advance solenoid wire from the top of the IP (injection pump), this is a single wire. Start the truck (be very careful – no long sleeves or anything that can get caught in the fan or belts). Using the meter or test light check to see if there is power on the wire you just disconnected from the IP, if the truck is at running temp you should not have any power. If you have power then the sending unit might be bad. Next run a jumper wire from the positive terminal of the battery to the spade connector of the cold advance, does the engine sound different? If the timing of the IP if way off you may not notice a change with out a meter attached.



Next make sure the mechanical advance is not stuck, to check this look at the top - front of your engine, on the lower right hand side of the IP there is a lever that moves left and right when the throttle is moved. With the engine off does this lever move left when you manually move the throttle linkage on the upper left-hand side of the IP? If the lever does not move use penetrating oil and see if you can work it loose, if the lever moves start the truck. Be very careful – no long sleeves or anything that can get caught in the fan or belts – you know the drill. While the truck is running take a screwdriver and push only the lever on the left. Does you engine do anything? If not the internals might me gummed up. Power Service diesel klean seems to be the fluid of choice for getting these unstuck (if possible). If the advance looks good we’ll move on to timing.



93

 

THANK YOU. i will try this either tomorrow or friday and let you know what happens.
i really appreciate it.