I'm having a very simular problem when my (sons) 98 F 150, 5.4 shifts into 3rd gear. At a normal acceleration, the shudder starts around 40 mph but if I accelerate harder at that point to make it down shift, it seems to go away or not shudder near as bad. The tranny and rear end feels real strong with hard acceleration through the first two gears, so my problem may very well be the torque converter. I checked the tranny fluid and the level was fine, but it hasn't been changed in awhile. I will try that tomorrow.

BTW, I've had coils go bad, so I know what that is like and the coils going out is a much worse shudder. Also, with a bad coil, mine wouldn't hardly idle and my engine seems to be fine while it's under a no load condition.

Another note. My check engine light came on when each of my coils went bad and this time it hasn't come on, at least my son says he hasn't seen it and I didn't either this afternoon.

 

I've got a '99 150 5.4 w/ 145000. I've had the "shudder" several times. Always at low RPM. Some times hardly not noticable at idle. Some times with the SES light on and sometimes not. I've replaced the plugs twice and darn near every coil. Everytime its been either the coil or the plug/coil combination. Needless to say I'm not a big fan of that COP design.

 

I am having the same problem with my '01 F150 with a 4.6L with 105k. SHaking and stuttering between 40 and 60mph. When I go faster it goes away, at lower RPMS you can barely feel the shuttering, but can see it on the RPM gauge going up and down, but not all the time at low RPM's

I took it to Autozone for them to pull the codes and they stated that I had a mis fire on cyliner 1 and 2. I replaced the plugs and coils and the same shutter is back.

I was also told that if the EGR valve is plugged with carbon that may cause the stutter as well so I am going to change out all the plugs and the EGR valve tonight. I will have to let you know if that solves the problem.

 

Don't just change out the valve, you need to make sure the ports aren't clogged. There a thread about it here, but I can't search for it.

 

found it

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...-egr-flow.html

 

Not to hijack the thread, but my 2001 F150 4.6 w/162,000 just started shuddering really bad, as described in several posts above. Never changed the tranny fluid and filter so I did that. I have two questions. There was some metal shavings on the magnet, no big chunks, just very fine pieces. This should be normal right?


And now that it's changed it's still there and you can kinda feel a lurch(I guess you could call it that) when it's in drive and the brake on. Is my tranny shot? Or the torque converter?

Thanks

 

I've posted it before but since the search is not working for everyone I'll re-post this.

Ford Motor Co instructed us to add a bottle of "FORD Friction Modifier" to the 4R70W transmissions in our fleet of Crown Vic Police cars
when shudder was experienced ( 1,000 + cars ). When my personal CV started shuddering I did as instructed and within a mile it was cured. I've put 60K miles on it since and it has never came back. Everyone I've recommended it to has had the same result. It's less than $5 at the dealership ....... get it, try it. Get the real stuff, not snake oil.

 

I have a problem with this posting. I just called our local Ford Dealership and they told me that this additive is for the differential only. However you say to put it in the transmission. Is this correct? If so do you change the transmission fluid first the put the additive in it or at anytime?

 

You/they are correct about what it's intended use is. Actually it was the Ford Factory rep, I think, that instructed the service dept. to use it. Unless your Ford dealer has ran into this shudder problem with a big customer they probably don't know. Believe me, when an agency buys 300 + new Interceptors a year Ford wouldn't screw up that relationship with an off the wall recommendation. BTW, I was, until I retired a Parts Supervisor (Master ASE) there. And no, don't change the fluid unless it's due to be changed. Hey, I didn't believe it either until I saw it for myself. I've put 60K+ miles on my Interceptor since adding it and, as stated, it hasn't shuddered since.
But it's up to you..........

 

BTW, there ARE others that make anti-shudder products, Wynns being one and I think Amsoil another. These I haven't tried and thus cannot recommend.


Here's the first post and even a testimony from another member.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...out-of-me.html

 

ncranchero you stated in one of your posts "Now if you want me to share my motor oil using help/cure by using Castrol motor oil I can do that too ...... "

Can you fill me in?

 

Ncranhero... How much of the bottle of additive should be added to the transmission?

 

My ex-father-in-law was one of the picky-est people I've ever met, great guy! Everything he owned was kept "like new" for decades (including a beautiful 63 1/2 Galaxie Fastback 390.....it went with my ex-wife ). He bought a cherry 76 280Z and noticed after several oil changes that it would come up 12/ qt. low at his 3K mile change. It didn't leak, didn't smoke, so where was it going. He took it to the dealer for them to find it. Their 1st question was the brand of oil he used .... Quaker State Super Blend. They told him to swap to 20W-50 Castrol and see if it didn't stop using. By the 2nd oil change it wasn't using a drop in 3K miles. I tried it and several friends have tried it, all with less oil consumption than with other oils. About all oil bases are the same, just different additive packages .... Castrol has a good one I guess.
Before anyone else says it, our 4.6L 7 5.4L SOHC's DO NOT need 20W-50. I personally use 5W-30 ....... Castrol.

Additive ......... all 4 oz.

Again, I'm just trying to help you save some bucks, hopefully.

 

I just did both, trans fluid change and all 8 COPs at a cost of $1,000. My 01 now runs like brand new. I know it is pricey, but what was I to do? My machanic had allready put all the COPs in before calling me. All my truck had was a small miss when leaving a light.

 

OK. I pulled the throttle body and assembly apart. I turned it over to inspect the ports and I found 1 port nearly plugged with carbon. I picked it out really good and sprayed a bunch of carb cleaner and replaced the egr valve. Some of those bolts are really hard to get to... I too dropped a bolt from the shroud down the engine. It is probably sitting on top of the motor under the manifold. O'well.

The only other problem I had was reconnecting the vaccum lines. I put the wrong one on the EGR valve and the truck ran like cra$. Once I moved the vaccum lines it was smooth sailing.

Now I erased all trouble codes... If there are other problems how long will it take for the codes to register?