Shaking/Studdering
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 50
Likes: 1
From: North Carolina
I'm having a very simular problem when my (sons) 98 F 150, 5.4 shifts into 3rd gear. At a normal acceleration, the shudder starts around 40 mph but if I accelerate harder at that point to make it down shift, it seems to go away or not shudder near as bad. The tranny and rear end feels real strong with hard acceleration through the first two gears, so my problem may very well be the torque converter. I checked the tranny fluid and the level was fine, but it hasn't been changed in awhile. I will try that tomorrow.
BTW, I've had coils go bad, so I know what that is like and the coils going out is a much worse shudder. Also, with a bad coil, mine wouldn't hardly idle and my engine seems to be fine while it's under a no load condition.
Another note. My check engine light came on when each of my coils went bad and this time it hasn't come on, at least my son says he hasn't seen it and I didn't either this afternoon.
BTW, I've had coils go bad, so I know what that is like and the coils going out is a much worse shudder. Also, with a bad coil, mine wouldn't hardly idle and my engine seems to be fine while it's under a no load condition.
Another note. My check engine light came on when each of my coils went bad and this time it hasn't come on, at least my son says he hasn't seen it and I didn't either this afternoon.
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 87
Likes: 3
From: MN
I've got a '99 150 5.4 w/ 145000. I've had the "shudder" several times. Always at low RPM. Some times hardly not noticable at idle. Some times with the SES light on and sometimes not. I've replaced the plugs twice and darn near every coil. Everytime its been either the coil or the plug/coil combination. Needless to say I'm not a big fan of that COP design.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
From: Dallas TX
Shaking/studdering
I am having the same problem with my '01 F150 with a 4.6L with 105k. SHaking and stuttering between 40 and 60mph. When I go faster it goes away, at lower RPMS you can barely feel the shuttering, but can see it on the RPM gauge going up and down, but not all the time at low RPM's
I took it to Autozone for them to pull the codes and they stated that I had a mis fire on cyliner 1 and 2. I replaced the plugs and coils and the same shutter is back.
I was also told that if the EGR valve is plugged with carbon that may cause the stutter as well so I am going to change out all the plugs and the EGR valve tonight. I will have to let you know if that solves the problem.
I took it to Autozone for them to pull the codes and they stated that I had a mis fire on cyliner 1 and 2. I replaced the plugs and coils and the same shutter is back.
I was also told that if the EGR valve is plugged with carbon that may cause the stutter as well so I am going to change out all the plugs and the EGR valve tonight. I will have to let you know if that solves the problem.
Junior User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 88
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I was also told that if the EGR valve is plugged with carbon that may cause the stutter as well so I am going to change out all the plugs and the EGR valve tonight. I will have to let you know if that solves the problem.
Junior User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 88
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: In the garage
Not to hijack the thread, but my 2001 F150 4.6 w/162,000 just started shuddering really bad, as described in several posts above. Never changed the tranny fluid and filter so I did that. I have two questions. There was some metal shavings on the magnet, no big chunks, just very fine pieces. This should be normal right?
And now that it's changed it's still there and you can kinda feel a lurch(I guess you could call it that) when it's in drive and the brake on. Is my tranny shot? Or the torque converter?
Thanks
And now that it's changed it's still there and you can kinda feel a lurch(I guess you could call it that) when it's in drive and the brake on. Is my tranny shot? Or the torque converter?
Thanks
Postmaster
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,310
Likes: 9
From: E.Lincoln County, NC
I've posted it before but since the search is not working for everyone I'll re-post this.
Ford Motor Co instructed us to add a bottle of "FORD Friction Modifier" to the 4R70W transmissions in our fleet of Crown Vic Police cars
when shudder was experienced ( 1,000 + cars ). When my personal CV started shuddering I did as instructed and within a mile it was cured. I've put 60K miles on it since and it has never came back. Everyone I've recommended it to has had the same result. It's less than $5 at the dealership ....... get it, try it. Get the real stuff, not snake oil.
Ford Motor Co instructed us to add a bottle of "FORD Friction Modifier" to the 4R70W transmissions in our fleet of Crown Vic Police cars
when shudder was experienced ( 1,000 + cars ). When my personal CV started shuddering I did as instructed and within a mile it was cured. I've put 60K miles on it since and it has never came back. Everyone I've recommended it to has had the same result. It's less than $5 at the dealership ....... get it, try it. Get the real stuff, not snake oil.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
From: Dallas TX
Originally Posted by ncranchero
I've posted it before but since the search is not working for everyone I'll re-post this.
Ford Motor Co instructed us to add a bottle of "FORD Friction Modifier" to the 4R70W transmissions in our fleet of Crown Vic Police cars
when shudder was experienced ( 1,000 + cars ). When my personal CV started shuddering I did as instructed and within a mile it was cured. I've put 60K miles on it since and it has never came back. Everyone I've recommended it to has had the same result. It's less than $5 at the dealership ....... get it, try it. Get the real stuff, not snake oil.
Ford Motor Co instructed us to add a bottle of "FORD Friction Modifier" to the 4R70W transmissions in our fleet of Crown Vic Police cars
when shudder was experienced ( 1,000 + cars ). When my personal CV started shuddering I did as instructed and within a mile it was cured. I've put 60K miles on it since and it has never came back. Everyone I've recommended it to has had the same result. It's less than $5 at the dealership ....... get it, try it. Get the real stuff, not snake oil.
Last edited by Racerguy; Dec 14, 2006 at 02:24 PM.
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Postmaster
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,310
Likes: 9
From: E.Lincoln County, NC
Originally Posted by JasonBrod
I have a problem with this posting. I just called our local Ford Dealership and they told me that this additive is for the differential only. However you say to put it in the transmission. Is this correct? If so do you change the transmission fluid first the put the additive in it or at anytime?
But it's up to you..........
Last edited by ncranchero; Dec 14, 2006 at 12:27 PM.
Postmaster
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,310
Likes: 9
From: E.Lincoln County, NC
BTW, there ARE others that make anti-shudder products, Wynns being one and I think Amsoil another. These I haven't tried and thus cannot recommend.
Here's the first post and even a testimony from another member.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...out-of-me.html
Here's the first post and even a testimony from another member.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...out-of-me.html
Postmaster
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,310
Likes: 9
From: E.Lincoln County, NC
Originally Posted by JasonBrod
ncranchero you stated in one of your posts "Now if you want me to share my motor oil using help/cure by using Castrol motor oil I can do that too ...... "
Can you fill me in?
Can you fill me in?
). He bought a cherry 76 280Z and noticed after several oil changes that it would come up 12/ qt. low at his 3K mile change. It didn't leak, didn't smoke, so where was it going. He took it to the dealer for them to find it. Their 1st question was the brand of oil he used .... Quaker State Super Blend. They told him to swap to 20W-50 Castrol and see if it didn't stop using. By the 2nd oil change it wasn't using a drop in 3K miles. I tried it and several friends have tried it, all with less oil consumption than with other oils. About all oil bases are the same, just different additive packages .... Castrol has a good one I guess.Before anyone else says it, our 4.6L 7 5.4L SOHC's DO NOT need 20W-50. I personally use 5W-30 ....... Castrol.
Additive ......... all 4 oz.
Again, I'm just trying to help you save some bucks, hopefully.
New User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
I just did both, trans fluid change and all 8 COPs at a cost of $1,000. My 01 now runs like brand new. I know it is pricey, but what was I to do? My machanic had allready put all the COPs in before calling me. All my truck had was a small miss when leaving a light.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
From: Dallas TX
Originally Posted by bigmtk
Don't just change out the valve, you need to make sure the ports aren't clogged. There a thread about it here, but I can't search for it.
The only other problem I had was reconnecting the vaccum lines. I put the wrong one on the EGR valve and the truck ran like cra$. Once I moved the vaccum lines it was smooth sailing.
Now I erased all trouble codes... If there are other problems how long will it take for the codes to register?
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hogmeat
1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series
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Jun 14, 2006 04:34 PM
