Water Pump question
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Alabama
Water Pump question
Two questions.
I bought a thermostat, tested it before installing. Had a little trouble with the thermostat seal. Solved that. Drove it around for awhile and it steamed up on me. Did'nt do that before. Now it seems there is water coming from the bottom of the water pump. Radiator does'nt seem to be as hot as it should be.
#1 What is the proper way to get air out of the system.
#2 How can you tell if the water pump has failed.
Gratefully thankful for your answers.
1997 7.3, cc, duelly,
slowly learning.
cookieduster
I bought a thermostat, tested it before installing. Had a little trouble with the thermostat seal. Solved that. Drove it around for awhile and it steamed up on me. Did'nt do that before. Now it seems there is water coming from the bottom of the water pump. Radiator does'nt seem to be as hot as it should be.
#1 What is the proper way to get air out of the system.
#2 How can you tell if the water pump has failed.
Gratefully thankful for your answers.
1997 7.3, cc, duelly,
slowly learning.
cookieduster
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 13,653
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
1. The system is self bleeding. That is the purpose of the degas bottle where the coolant gets poured in. You can expedite the process by manually "burping" the waterpump by loosening the hose on the top of the pump (to the heater core), and letting the air escape.
2. There is a weep hole on the bottom of the water pump. If that's where your leak is coming from the pump is already gone, or least on it's way out.
2. There is a weep hole on the bottom of the water pump. If that's where your leak is coming from the pump is already gone, or least on it's way out.
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From: Alabama
Thanks for the quick answer cookie88. Further checking and testing in the morning is in order. I'm wondering if I caused the waterpump to go south in some way during the thermostat installation.
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FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2001
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
You might want to double check that. The two are not interchangable. If you are using the wrong thermostat you might be bypassing the engine and just circulating coolant from the pump to the radiator. Not a good situation.....If you still have the old 'stat you should pull the new one back out and make sure they are exactly alike.
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Originally Posted by cookieduster
There was a difference, seems the new one is longer. Would'nt bet on it though.
Cheers Ed
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Well I have tried to get the clutch fan off, have'nt been able to do it yet, I guess its rusted on. Rented a tool but it does'nt work too well. Came from taiwan, what did I expect from Advanced auto. Ford has a better idea they say, I have'nt figured that one out yet. And they wonder why they are going downhill. The only idea Ford has is how to tick off people. I'll get the torch out tomorrow and try heating it some. I wonder how a real live Ford mechanic would get the clutch fan off the water-pump. I see, bigger hammer.
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From: Thunder Bay, Canada
Which direction are you trying to unscrew the hub? It should come off like any regular bolt, counter clockwise to loosen, at least that's how my 95 and 96 both work.
If your water pump is toast, and sounds like it is, if it's wobbling, hit the fan cluch hub with an air chisel if you have one available.
Try to get the air chisel bit to club it on the upper left most corner of the clutch nut. Hard to describe, basically you want to try to use the air chisel to unscrew the clutch hub nut.
If it works alright, it should start to move slightly after some hammering, and then you'll be able to unscrew it by hand. You'll have to take out the shroud with the fan, watch you don't scuff up the rad too much while lifting it out. While the fan and clutch are out, you can dress up the clutch nut with a file to smooth out the pieces you chewed up with the air chisel.
Good luck
If your water pump is toast, and sounds like it is, if it's wobbling, hit the fan cluch hub with an air chisel if you have one available.
Try to get the air chisel bit to club it on the upper left most corner of the clutch nut. Hard to describe, basically you want to try to use the air chisel to unscrew the clutch hub nut.
If it works alright, it should start to move slightly after some hammering, and then you'll be able to unscrew it by hand. You'll have to take out the shroud with the fan, watch you don't scuff up the rad too much while lifting it out. While the fan and clutch are out, you can dress up the clutch nut with a file to smooth out the pieces you chewed up with the air chisel.
Good luck
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From: Alabama
I've never had so much trouble with anything on my vehicles like this water pump. I could not get the fan clutch nut loose even with the air chisel, I tried a hammer and chisel before the air chisel. I wound up cutting it off just to get the fan and pully off to reuse. I'm all set to replace everything now. But I am going to put a very light coat of grease on the fan clutch shaft before I put it back on, at least maybe the next time it has to be changed it will be easier. The nuts that held the waterpump on were way over 14 ft lbs as suggested by others, I'm surprised that at least one did'nt break while loosening them. The Thermostat is the same size as the one I removed, and it has plenty of room to open, I checked and tested it. A little over three hundred dollar job so far, just for a leak.