Why Can't I Order My New Truck ???
#1
Why Can't I Order My New Truck ???
Ford will not let you order a 07 model with 6.0 . why will they not let us order new 08 with 6.4 ? We are ready and I dont know about you guys but I need a new truck as I just sold mine.
#5
Originally Posted by stangpartsman
Check with Ford on November 1, this is the day that the 08 order guides are available so you can order your truck. Don't expect delivery until Feb / March.
#7
re
I will make this short. You are seeing a change in the policy for supply for the F250 and up. Ford did not give the employee discount this year. They are giving far less incentives than usual. They have realized that if they deeply discount thier trucks, the future trade in values will be unacceptable for the commercial and fleet buyers. For instance. Chrysler gave the employee discount on most of thier vehicles this summer. Problem is, after two months of ownership, they are basically WORTHLESS !! A 28,000 dollar MSRP is worth 16,000 dollars in trade after three months of ownership. This is a 43 percent loss. This is unacceptable and if you finance your are not only lossing the 43 percent, but the money the banks want for the interest. The deeper the cut when bought new, the deeper the cut in resale value. You could end up paying 50,000 dollars for a vehicle that is worth 5,000 come trade in. After two years of paying let us say 10 percent on the loan, if your lucky you have paid off about 3,000 dollars on the principle. This leaves 25,000 (if you bought full MSRP) and the trade in would probably be about 10,000 dollars, if the deep discounts were done every year since your initail purchase. This leaves you with a 15,000 dollars problem that will have to rolled over into a new loan. Remeber, taxes, license and life/gap insurance is also a part of your loan. Your employee priced vehicle could easily reach full MSRP.
Remember, you have already paid at least 5,000 dollars in interest. So now you are 20,000 dollars in the red. Now finance this new rolled over debt and pay 10 percent on the loan again and you have paid out 1,500 dollars the first year and diminishing amounts for the next few. If you get a 5 year loan you will probably pay about 6,000 dollars in interest on the money you had to roll over. Remember, you are paying for the new vehicle pricing too.
In the end a 28,000 dollar vehicle will cost you 26,000 dollars more, over 50,000 grand with a conservaive estimate. Unacceptable and if you were smart you would just turn in the keys and take the hit on your credit for the next 5 years and let the banks try to collect. Even if you HAD to pay the difference the bank got you would be ahead.
Remember, you have already paid at least 5,000 dollars in interest. So now you are 20,000 dollars in the red. Now finance this new rolled over debt and pay 10 percent on the loan again and you have paid out 1,500 dollars the first year and diminishing amounts for the next few. If you get a 5 year loan you will probably pay about 6,000 dollars in interest on the money you had to roll over. Remember, you are paying for the new vehicle pricing too.
In the end a 28,000 dollar vehicle will cost you 26,000 dollars more, over 50,000 grand with a conservaive estimate. Unacceptable and if you were smart you would just turn in the keys and take the hit on your credit for the next 5 years and let the banks try to collect. Even if you HAD to pay the difference the bank got you would be ahead.
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#8
Originally Posted by rimshoes
I will make this short. You are seeing a change in the policy for supply for the F250 and up. Ford did not give the employee discount this year. They are giving far less incentives than usual. They have realized that if they deeply discount thier trucks, the future trade in values will be unacceptable for the commercial and fleet buyers. For instance. Chrysler gave the employee discount on most of thier vehicles this summer. Problem is, after two months of ownership, they are basically WORTHLESS !! A 28,000 dollar MSRP is worth 16,000 dollars in trade after three months of ownership. This is a 43 percent loss. This is unacceptable and if you finance your are not only lossing the 43 percent, but the money the banks want for the interest. The deeper the cut when bought new, the deeper the cut in resale value. You could end up paying 50,000 dollars for a vehicle that is worth 5,000 come trade in. After two years of paying let us say 10 percent on the loan, if your lucky you have paid off about 3,000 dollars on the principle. This leaves 25,000 (if you bought full MSRP) and the trade in would probably be about 10,000 dollars, if the deep discounts were done every year since your initail purchase. This leaves you with a 15,000 dollars problem that will have to rolled over into a new loan. Remeber, taxes, license and life/gap insurance is also a part of your loan. Your employee priced vehicle could easily reach full MSRP.
Remember, you have already paid at least 5,000 dollars in interest. So now you are 20,000 dollars in the red. Now finance this new rolled over debt and pay 10 percent on the loan again and you have paid out 1,500 dollars the first year and diminishing amounts for the next few. If you get a 5 year loan you will probably pay about 6,000 dollars in interest on the money you had to roll over. Remember, you are paying for the new vehicle pricing too.
In the end a 28,000 dollar vehicle will cost you 26,000 dollars more, over 50,000 grand with a conservaive estimate. Unacceptable and if you were smart you would just turn in the keys and take the hit on your credit for the next 5 years and let the banks try to collect. Even if you HAD to pay the difference the bank got you would be ahead.
Remember, you have already paid at least 5,000 dollars in interest. So now you are 20,000 dollars in the red. Now finance this new rolled over debt and pay 10 percent on the loan again and you have paid out 1,500 dollars the first year and diminishing amounts for the next few. If you get a 5 year loan you will probably pay about 6,000 dollars in interest on the money you had to roll over. Remember, you are paying for the new vehicle pricing too.
In the end a 28,000 dollar vehicle will cost you 26,000 dollars more, over 50,000 grand with a conservaive estimate. Unacceptable and if you were smart you would just turn in the keys and take the hit on your credit for the next 5 years and let the banks try to collect. Even if you HAD to pay the difference the bank got you would be ahead.
#9
This situation is called being "upside down" on your loan. It has much less to do about rebates and incentives, than it does on carrying debt over from a previous vehicle. Everyone knows you pay mostly interest at the beginning of a loan. If you owed $5000 on a truck and traded it in on another that you agree is $40,000, your loan on the new truck is $45,000. The loan has nothing to do with residual value down the road.
The banks only care about the loan amount and it doesn't matter if the dealer convinced you to pay $50,000 for it or you carried money over from a previous loan.
I knew a guy with a $50,000 loan on a Hundai years ago. Had nothing to do with rebates. He just continually traded vehicles -- taking the amount owed on each to the next transaction -- until he was irrationally upside down.
The banks only care about the loan amount and it doesn't matter if the dealer convinced you to pay $50,000 for it or you carried money over from a previous loan.
I knew a guy with a $50,000 loan on a Hundai years ago. Had nothing to do with rebates. He just continually traded vehicles -- taking the amount owed on each to the next transaction -- until he was irrationally upside down.
#12
when ?
Even if you order a new truck, no trade in, you will be paying a percentage rate on a loan. If you have EXCELLENT credit you may get 4 to 6 percent. As stated by others, the banks will get thier interest from you, but it should be a simple interest rate. What I am getting at is simple and you guys need to wake up. The auto industry is pulling the wool over your eyes. They started giving thier vehicles away with incentive plans, employee discounts, zero percent loans and even selling BELOW thier invoice. Invoice is still above what a dealer pays.
I just bought a 2006 Ford Expedition. I traded in a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited. They paid off my Jeep loan 1000 dollars less than I owed. I did not care becuase I bought the thing at "Green Sheet" (basically employee discount) and it was ready to go down the road. The Jeep dealer I bought it from actually gave me his number for the "Green Sheet" deal. I told him I would not buy any other way. This was of course before the summer of 2005 employee discount fiasco.
On the Ford, I could have taken the 6000 bucks in incentives and paid a hefty interest rate on the loan. My credit is not perfect and I do not know any one who has perfect credit. They have loan calculators on the web, use them and you will be astonished as to what you will pay in 5 to 6 years even on a 3 percent loan.
I was paying 5.5 percent on the Jeep loan, but Ford likes to hit you hard if you take the incentives and all the rebates. I took the zero percent interest, retired my jeep loan into the new one and will actually come out ahead. The dealer even took off 4,500 bucks off the MSRP of the expedition. I gave them back thier 1,000 bucks in incentives as the down payment and drove off in a new vehicle. I even used my AQHA membership 500 buck rebate.
Now back to your new truck. You have to realize that you will lose 40 percent of your initial purchase price in the first year alone. Even the F250 are presently in this catagory. Look on the Yahoo.auto site and see for yourself.
The dealers and auto industry are cornering the market for used vehicles. The Kelly Blue Book values for used vehicles are falling hard and fast. You can not get away from this value structure becuase everyone and thier grandma uses the internet and they base what they will pay on this.
For instance. The vehicle I just got had a MSRP of 39,000 bucks. The rebates and incetives where 6,000 bucks. You can buy one for 33,000 bucks and get a loan from Ford Credit for about 5 percent, IF YOU HAVE GREAT CREDIT.
Now, go look at autotrader and see what a 10,000 mile 2006 expedition is selling for PRIVATELY. It is about 5 to 6 K under 33,000 bucks or about 27,000 bucks and this is in EXCELLENT condition. Calculate 27,000 divided by 39,000 and you get 69 percent. This is a perfect deal and you have to sell your vehicle OUTRIGHT without trading it in. Trade it in after a year and you will lose another 10 percent. Add on GAP, ESP warranties, Life insurance and the percentages get worse. These ESP/insurance plans lose value quickly after 18 months and getting your money back from them is an absolute necessity within this period. They actually become worthless after 18 months becuase the vehicle is near worthless. Never give up the GAP plan, it is your only hope of paying off a vehicle if you wreck it and you still owe big. You can cancell these plans at any time during your loan, the creditors will get the money, but your loan will decrease too. Don't wiat too long. Some people calculate when to cancel.
My point is: Buy a vehicle at the year end dealing, do not buy in a new year. When you walk in an put your 45,000 dollars order in on a new truck, think about where you will be in one year. You will be "upside down".
Unless they provide you with the same incentive, employee discounts and zero percent interest rates you are only screwing youself and you will NEVER get ahead of the loan and away from the vehicle without bailing from the loan. As was mentioned, this is NEVER a good idea, but some people simply can not afford to get out any other way.
You simply can not afford to buy any other way !!! You were given two feet for one purpose in life. To walk away from a auto dealership at the first sign of confusion if they want you to buy any other way.
I just bought a 2006 Ford Expedition. I traded in a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited. They paid off my Jeep loan 1000 dollars less than I owed. I did not care becuase I bought the thing at "Green Sheet" (basically employee discount) and it was ready to go down the road. The Jeep dealer I bought it from actually gave me his number for the "Green Sheet" deal. I told him I would not buy any other way. This was of course before the summer of 2005 employee discount fiasco.
On the Ford, I could have taken the 6000 bucks in incentives and paid a hefty interest rate on the loan. My credit is not perfect and I do not know any one who has perfect credit. They have loan calculators on the web, use them and you will be astonished as to what you will pay in 5 to 6 years even on a 3 percent loan.
I was paying 5.5 percent on the Jeep loan, but Ford likes to hit you hard if you take the incentives and all the rebates. I took the zero percent interest, retired my jeep loan into the new one and will actually come out ahead. The dealer even took off 4,500 bucks off the MSRP of the expedition. I gave them back thier 1,000 bucks in incentives as the down payment and drove off in a new vehicle. I even used my AQHA membership 500 buck rebate.
Now back to your new truck. You have to realize that you will lose 40 percent of your initial purchase price in the first year alone. Even the F250 are presently in this catagory. Look on the Yahoo.auto site and see for yourself.
The dealers and auto industry are cornering the market for used vehicles. The Kelly Blue Book values for used vehicles are falling hard and fast. You can not get away from this value structure becuase everyone and thier grandma uses the internet and they base what they will pay on this.
For instance. The vehicle I just got had a MSRP of 39,000 bucks. The rebates and incetives where 6,000 bucks. You can buy one for 33,000 bucks and get a loan from Ford Credit for about 5 percent, IF YOU HAVE GREAT CREDIT.
Now, go look at autotrader and see what a 10,000 mile 2006 expedition is selling for PRIVATELY. It is about 5 to 6 K under 33,000 bucks or about 27,000 bucks and this is in EXCELLENT condition. Calculate 27,000 divided by 39,000 and you get 69 percent. This is a perfect deal and you have to sell your vehicle OUTRIGHT without trading it in. Trade it in after a year and you will lose another 10 percent. Add on GAP, ESP warranties, Life insurance and the percentages get worse. These ESP/insurance plans lose value quickly after 18 months and getting your money back from them is an absolute necessity within this period. They actually become worthless after 18 months becuase the vehicle is near worthless. Never give up the GAP plan, it is your only hope of paying off a vehicle if you wreck it and you still owe big. You can cancell these plans at any time during your loan, the creditors will get the money, but your loan will decrease too. Don't wiat too long. Some people calculate when to cancel.
My point is: Buy a vehicle at the year end dealing, do not buy in a new year. When you walk in an put your 45,000 dollars order in on a new truck, think about where you will be in one year. You will be "upside down".
Unless they provide you with the same incentive, employee discounts and zero percent interest rates you are only screwing youself and you will NEVER get ahead of the loan and away from the vehicle without bailing from the loan. As was mentioned, this is NEVER a good idea, but some people simply can not afford to get out any other way.
You simply can not afford to buy any other way !!! You were given two feet for one purpose in life. To walk away from a auto dealership at the first sign of confusion if they want you to buy any other way.
#14
Originally Posted by rimshoes
Even if you order a new truck, no trade in, you will be paying a percentage rate on a loan. If you have EXCELLENT credit you may get 4 to 6 percent. As stated by others, the banks will get thier interest from you, but it should be a simple interest rate. What I am getting at is simple and you guys need to wake up. The auto industry is pulling the wool over your eyes. They started giving thier vehicles away with incentive plans, employee discounts, zero percent loans and even selling BELOW thier invoice. Invoice is still above what a dealer pays.
I just bought a 2006 Ford Expedition. I traded in a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited. They paid off my Jeep loan 1000 dollars less than I owed. I did not care becuase I bought the thing at "Green Sheet" (basically employee discount) and it was ready to go down the road. The Jeep dealer I bought it from actually gave me his number for the "Green Sheet" deal. I told him I would not buy any other way. This was of course before the summer of 2005 employee discount fiasco.
On the Ford, I could have taken the 6000 bucks in incentives and paid a hefty interest rate on the loan. My credit is not perfect and I do not know any one who has perfect credit. They have loan calculators on the web, use them and you will be astonished as to what you will pay in 5 to 6 years even on a 3 percent loan.
I was paying 5.5 percent on the Jeep loan, but Ford likes to hit you hard if you take the incentives and all the rebates. I took the zero percent interest, retired my jeep loan into the new one and will actually come out ahead. The dealer even took off 4,500 bucks off the MSRP of the expedition. I gave them back thier 1,000 bucks in incentives as the down payment and drove off in a new vehicle. I even used my AQHA membership 500 buck rebate.
Now back to your new truck. You have to realize that you will lose 40 percent of your initial purchase price in the first year alone. Even the F250 are presently in this catagory. Look on the Yahoo.auto site and see for yourself.
The dealers and auto industry are cornering the market for used vehicles. The Kelly Blue Book values for used vehicles are falling hard and fast. You can not get away from this value structure becuase everyone and thier grandma uses the internet and they base what they will pay on this.
For instance. The vehicle I just got had a MSRP of 39,000 bucks. The rebates and incetives where 6,000 bucks. You can buy one for 33,000 bucks and get a loan from Ford Credit for about 5 percent, IF YOU HAVE GREAT CREDIT.
Now, go look at autotrader and see what a 10,000 mile 2006 expedition is selling for PRIVATELY. It is about 5 to 6 K under 33,000 bucks or about 27,000 bucks and this is in EXCELLENT condition. Calculate 27,000 divided by 39,000 and you get 69 percent. This is a perfect deal and you have to sell your vehicle OUTRIGHT without trading it in. Trade it in after a year and you will lose another 10 percent. Add on GAP, ESP warranties, Life insurance and the percentages get worse. These ESP/insurance plans lose value quickly after 18 months and getting your money back from them is an absolute necessity within this period. They actually become worthless after 18 months becuase the vehicle is near worthless. Never give up the GAP plan, it is your only hope of paying off a vehicle if you wreck it and you still owe big. You can cancell these plans at any time during your loan, the creditors will get the money, but your loan will decrease too. Don't wiat too long. Some people calculate when to cancel.
My point is: Buy a vehicle at the year end dealing, do not buy in a new year. When you walk in an put your 45,000 dollars order in on a new truck, think about where you will be in one year. You will be "upside down".
Unless they provide you with the same incentive, employee discounts and zero percent interest rates you are only screwing youself and you will NEVER get ahead of the loan and away from the vehicle without bailing from the loan. As was mentioned, this is NEVER a good idea, but some people simply can not afford to get out any other way.
You simply can not afford to buy any other way !!! You were given two feet for one purpose in life. To walk away from a auto dealership at the first sign of confusion if they want you to buy any other way.
I just bought a 2006 Ford Expedition. I traded in a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited. They paid off my Jeep loan 1000 dollars less than I owed. I did not care becuase I bought the thing at "Green Sheet" (basically employee discount) and it was ready to go down the road. The Jeep dealer I bought it from actually gave me his number for the "Green Sheet" deal. I told him I would not buy any other way. This was of course before the summer of 2005 employee discount fiasco.
On the Ford, I could have taken the 6000 bucks in incentives and paid a hefty interest rate on the loan. My credit is not perfect and I do not know any one who has perfect credit. They have loan calculators on the web, use them and you will be astonished as to what you will pay in 5 to 6 years even on a 3 percent loan.
I was paying 5.5 percent on the Jeep loan, but Ford likes to hit you hard if you take the incentives and all the rebates. I took the zero percent interest, retired my jeep loan into the new one and will actually come out ahead. The dealer even took off 4,500 bucks off the MSRP of the expedition. I gave them back thier 1,000 bucks in incentives as the down payment and drove off in a new vehicle. I even used my AQHA membership 500 buck rebate.
Now back to your new truck. You have to realize that you will lose 40 percent of your initial purchase price in the first year alone. Even the F250 are presently in this catagory. Look on the Yahoo.auto site and see for yourself.
The dealers and auto industry are cornering the market for used vehicles. The Kelly Blue Book values for used vehicles are falling hard and fast. You can not get away from this value structure becuase everyone and thier grandma uses the internet and they base what they will pay on this.
For instance. The vehicle I just got had a MSRP of 39,000 bucks. The rebates and incetives where 6,000 bucks. You can buy one for 33,000 bucks and get a loan from Ford Credit for about 5 percent, IF YOU HAVE GREAT CREDIT.
Now, go look at autotrader and see what a 10,000 mile 2006 expedition is selling for PRIVATELY. It is about 5 to 6 K under 33,000 bucks or about 27,000 bucks and this is in EXCELLENT condition. Calculate 27,000 divided by 39,000 and you get 69 percent. This is a perfect deal and you have to sell your vehicle OUTRIGHT without trading it in. Trade it in after a year and you will lose another 10 percent. Add on GAP, ESP warranties, Life insurance and the percentages get worse. These ESP/insurance plans lose value quickly after 18 months and getting your money back from them is an absolute necessity within this period. They actually become worthless after 18 months becuase the vehicle is near worthless. Never give up the GAP plan, it is your only hope of paying off a vehicle if you wreck it and you still owe big. You can cancell these plans at any time during your loan, the creditors will get the money, but your loan will decrease too. Don't wiat too long. Some people calculate when to cancel.
My point is: Buy a vehicle at the year end dealing, do not buy in a new year. When you walk in an put your 45,000 dollars order in on a new truck, think about where you will be in one year. You will be "upside down".
Unless they provide you with the same incentive, employee discounts and zero percent interest rates you are only screwing youself and you will NEVER get ahead of the loan and away from the vehicle without bailing from the loan. As was mentioned, this is NEVER a good idea, but some people simply can not afford to get out any other way.
You simply can not afford to buy any other way !!! You were given two feet for one purpose in life. To walk away from a auto dealership at the first sign of confusion if they want you to buy any other way.
I say again .........THERE WILL BE NO LOAN ON MY TRUCK ..........I am not looking for financial advice especially from someone with marginal credit. I think that you would be the last person to give advice on loans,banking,etc. My question is pertaining to the opening of the order banks so I can order a new truck. If anyone has an idea please let me know , and if you would like to start a F&I thread then go somewhere else.
#15
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Great State of Texas
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REELNAUTI4U, check with Ford on Nov. 1st as stangpartsman suggested.
You may also want to ask polarbear in the "New Ford/Linclon..." forum.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum22/
But, you better hurry because he as accepted a position at a Chevy only dealership.
Good luck.
Thread closed for obvious reasons.
You may also want to ask polarbear in the "New Ford/Linclon..." forum.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum22/
But, you better hurry because he as accepted a position at a Chevy only dealership.
Good luck.
Thread closed for obvious reasons.