Traction - Narrowed rear needed?
First time posting here, so please bare with me. Currently my 1956 Ford F-100 rest's upon a 1979 Ford F-100 (150? can't remember) chassis with a 302/C-6. Problem with this swap, although was really great when I was 17 years old, it now looks very odd to me because it sits as high as a 4x4. I'm starting the planning for it's big long term project which will be going back to the stock frame, which in itself will be getting upgraded. This pickup started out life as being a long box powered by a 272 and a fordomatic auto transmission. For driveablity and cost reasons we shorted the 1979 frame, set the cab up on it and found a 60's short box for out back. Total cost for that transformation was about $1500.
I plan to keep this truck a short box because I really don't care much for the looks of the long box. I would like to do the IFS swap on the original frame, most likely going with a Mopar suspension since I'm also a huge Mopar Freak, sorry. After this swap, also since I have more extensive knowledge in the Mopar field I will most likely be running a 500+ hp 440
, since I know how to build one of those to be near bullit proof on a budget, that is not set in stone however, I also have a 429 and a 460 that are very tempting Power in the engine compartment is one thing, glueing it down to the pavement is another
. I haven't any experience in real "hot" pickups so my question at this point is what rear end setup would you guys recommend? Since I have to shorten the frame to be a short box anyway, a rear subframe isn't out of the question if that is what is needed. Money is always a concern, but also is doing the job right. I'm afraid an 8" wheel won't get me the traction I'll need, so I assume a narrow and tub job might be in order? What do all of you think? Please give me your honest opinions, I can take a little heat.Thanks and I've read hours through this forum and it is an invaluable tool.
Jordan S.
Eastern Oregon
At this time the discussion of non-Ford powerplants is not encouraged on FTE. You will find discussion of a potential new board for this at the top of the forum page. (Vote in progress)
If you later to decide to run a Ford Big Block in your truck, we'd love to help you out. I too run a Mopar IFS. Unfortunately you will find it very difficult to run a big block engine with this IFS due to steering box clearance issues.
You are correct in your assumption that traction problems are inherent with 500 HP and 8 in rims on a light rear end vehicle. You could probably run 10 inch rims if you use 3 inch widened fenders which are readily available. Major frame mods are your other option.
good luck
'fenders
Thanks for the FYI on the power plant thing, I will keep it in mind for further posting. At this point what engine I'm purposing to put in the truck doesn't really make a difference on the problem. I'm just interested in getting information on rearend setups, like ladder bar, 4-link, coil-overs, springs, or whatever works best on these trucks to sling the weight from front to rear on launch.
Nice thing though, going with the brand that the IFS is, it will be a simple bolt in engine swap since with the Mopar IFS, Schumacher Creative Services builds engine mounts for this specific swap and most header manufacturers have headers that will work as well.
Thanks!
Jordan
http://www.59ford.com/page25.html
It's the 8th one from the top, the bright red one. In that picture you can see what I mean about being really high.
Thanks!
... ever thought about getting an all new frame ??? A friend of mine runs a 55 F100, all steel (I mean ALL), SB Ford (in fact a Motorsports block at 400+ CUI), C4, 9" at the drags over here. He runs 10.0 sec in the 1/4 street legal. Some time ago he swapped the original frame with one built by Art Morrison to fit his truck (or better any 53-56 F100). It has four-link in the back and MUstang II up front. It sits low. Take a look at this site. You should find the bright red truck here at this years main event.
http://www.dragster.de/2003/galmain.htm
I guess the bare frame can't be that expensive.
This thing launches perfectly and runs down the track like being on railroad tracks.
You'll find Art Morrison here:
http://www.artmorrison.com/
Greetings from Germany - Home of the Flat Orange Autobahn Monster (which uses parts that others consider trash)
I am however interested in Morrison's rearend setups, that would make shortening my frame much easier. But I guess it depends how much cash they want for one of those.
Jordan
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