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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

'04 6.0 Help!!

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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 10:13 PM
  #16  
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southbound35west
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i put the k and n intake sytem on my 2006 ps, ran it for 15000 miles took it to ford for warranty work, they checked the turbo it was what they call dusted, and they said that fine dust was passing thru the k and n filter right into the impeller, some of the finish had come off the impeller due to this dust passing thru it, it looked like the impeller was sandblasted, so i am sending this system back to k and n for a refund, i put the factory system back on, until i have money for a afe stage 2 magnum force intake system with pro guard 7 filter.........
 
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 10:27 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by ford4lifer
Yes that is right but K&N claims it won't void your warrenty, and I live in florida, Florida past a law that dealers/manufactures can no longer void warrenties for aftermarket parts that are "NOT" internal engine parts. When I purchased the truck new I asked the service manager and diesel tech if I put a K&N or comprable on one would it void my warrenty and I was told no. Maybe bad info on my part but I had put the K&N on for mpg not performance, which gave me only 1 mpg gain.
Read the warranty card in the "performance" air filter pkg. In essence it reads---they are not responsible for any damage to your vehicle from usage of their product. They dont warranty it if its used for high performance. They will warranty the filter from defects however. You have to send them your filter (and pay the freight to and from) then they will send you a new filter.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 10:31 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by southbound35west
until i have money for a afe stage 2 magnum force intake system with pro guard 7 filter.........
Which still won't be as good as the stock system and without major engine modifications the increased air flow will be of little to no use. But with increased airflow comes increased dirt flow and thus shortened life of turbo and engine.

After you change to larger injectors, add Methanol/Water, Nitrous, new head bolts etc, then you can think about changing the air cleaner to an aftermarket system. At which point increased wear on the turbo will be of little concern sense at this level of modding engine component failures are to be expected.

You may want to look at "npccpartsman" post a little closer he know from which he speaks.

Hope this helps
 
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 08:39 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by ford4lifer
did you lose power due to the y pipe and now that it is replaced has it made a difference?
Didn't seem to have power loss.Just hissing loud mainly drivers wheel well.It was hard to tell where it was coming from.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 11:31 AM
  #20  
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you can have a power loss because an exhaust leak is backpressure lost
 
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 05:58 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by BowTieHatr
you can have a power loss because an exhaust leak is backpressure lost
Since truck is still under 5y/100k warr. I decieded to drive it like I stole it today, after the 4th time of flooring it from stop lights it seemed to have an increase in power and shift a little harder, but still not the snap your head back like new or even 6 months ago. Would the y pipe be suspect fro power loss on this or possible the new diesel fuel that is out? Been talking to another Ford Master Diesel Tech and he's telling me I have issues with the turbo says he's replacing one about every week (turbo doesn't wined up loud as did new and severe lag also airbox doesn't pop like did when hard accelerating then let off fast)
 
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 06:06 PM
  #22  
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From: Florence,SC
well there are issues with the turbos. but the main issue is not the turbo it is the driver. not enough driving, not enough full boost conditions, causes rust and carbon build up making the turbo "suck". you should be getting at least 22 psi if someone does a boost test. if not then it could be a backpressure issue or something else.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 06:21 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by BowTieHatr
well there are issues with the turbos. but the main issue is not the turbo it is the driver. not enough driving, not enough full boost conditions, causes rust and carbon build up making the turbo "suck". you should be getting at least 22 psi if someone does a boost test. if not then it could be a backpressure issue or something else.
Ok, the truck is driven nearly everday, 500 to 600 miles a week, I am 32 years young and have somewhat a lead foot most of the time, I have pulled 31 ft travel trailer roughtly 3k miles, a 26ft regulator boat 4k miles at 80 mph (not constant), and numerous other boats on short trips. I work on marine diesels for a living so I do know about blowng the engines out occationally, however there is a huge difference between these $30k-$80k marine engines I work on and this 6.0L mainly all the electrical systems and emmision controls. Thats what flushstrates me about this the most is I cannot figure it out, if it were a marine engine I would have checked the turbo first and sent it off with the injectors to be tested or repaired. It's just aggrivating!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 06:29 PM
  #24  
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trust me how well i know. on these trucks, one thing can cause a snow ball effect along with alot of other issues. by any chance have you checked the egr valve? the slightest crack will kill boost in an instant. you mentioned earlier that you keep hearing a hiss. put the stock airbox back on and see if you can still hear a hiss. if you can the ypipe is toast probably, which can kill boost. if the ebp sensor is readin irratic your boost will be affected, if the map sensor hose is off, cracked, or clogged it will kill boost. if you have a early build 6.0 then alot more can kill boost. on these the computer can. check and see if you have a icp sensor on the right valve cover and get back to us. i will start the scratching head process if you can fill in the blanks.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 06:53 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by BowTieHatr
trust me how well i know. on these trucks, one thing can cause a snow ball effect along with alot of other issues. by any chance have you checked the egr valve? the slightest crack will kill boost in an instant. you mentioned earlier that you keep hearing a hiss. put the stock airbox back on and see if you can still hear a hiss. if you can the ypipe is toast probably, which can kill boost. if the ebp sensor is readin irratic your boost will be affected, if the map sensor hose is off, cracked, or clogged it will kill boost. if you have a early build 6.0 then alot more can kill boost. on these the computer can. check and see if you have a icp sensor on the right valve cover and get back to us. i will start the scratching head process if you can fill in the blanks.
No I haven't check the egr valve, bare with me, where is it, stock airbox has been on the truck since may 06 and yes still hiss, rest of post is chinese to me. build date on truck is 09/03. the icp sensor where exactly is it driverside or pass?
 
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 06:58 PM
  #26  
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It would be on the passenger side front corner of the valve cover. If it's not there then it's under the turbo and you have an early 6.0 build. Not necessarily a bad motor either--just takes a little different tuning strategy--lol.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 07:15 PM
  #27  
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From: Florence,SC
Originally Posted by ford4lifer
No I haven't check the egr valve, bare with me, where is it, stock airbox has been on the truck since may 06 and yes still hiss, rest of post is chinese to me. build date on truck is 09/03. the icp sensor where exactly is it driverside or pass?
the egr valve is in front of the oil filter housing. unplug it and remove the two 8 mm bolts. if the valve is unseated on the bottom or there is alot of carbon on it then thats part of the problem or is the problem. if your truck is still hissing with the stock airbox then i going with a y pipe. also since you say all this seemed to start with the reprogram, you could have one of two issues. either the program was not done correctly or it is done correctly. either way your truck is going to lose power because the turbo strategy wont learn, or it made your truck more sensitive like it was supposed to and it made the problem worse due to lack of backpressure due to the possible y pipe.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 07:25 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by BowTieHatr
the egr valve is in front of the oil filter housing. unplug it and remove the two 8 mm bolts. if the valve is unseated on the bottom or there is alot of carbon on it then thats part of the problem or is the problem. if your truck is still hissing with the stock airbox then i going with a y pipe. also since you say all this seemed to start with the reprogram, you could have one of two issues. either the program was not done correctly or it is done correctly. either way your truck is going to lose power because the turbo strategy wont learn, or it made your truck more sensitive like it was supposed to and it made the problem worse due to lack of backpressure due to the possible y pipe.
ok if I unplug the egr can you start and run the truck to see if there is a difference with out making the cel come on and will it go off if pluged back in? if the valve is carboned up can I clean it off or does it need to be replaced? I agree with the y pipe issue and the tech at my local dealer said that's what he thought it might be so hopefully they will replace it when the truck goes in Nov 8. I do thank you and npcc for all the info you have provided and taking time to answer my questions.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 07:30 PM
  #29  
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unplugging it might not solve the concern. unless your 04 is a california build then no light will come on. if it is carboned then you can clean it off. but since it is fixing to go in just let the guys know you dont have any power and they will go from there. let us know when you get it fixed.
 
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