A little food for thought, maybe you guys could come up with a Stage one, two three….kind of like FTE’s own version for after market performance mods….for the new guy. Possibly even using what is available to all members from our sponsors.

Like air filter, gauges….then exhausts and programmer….then talk about what you can except from each stage of the mod, both pros and cons….take it all the way to engine studs and full out race….just an idea to get things real technical here in the comp forum…BTW it can work for 6oh, 7.3 and even the gas guys when we get that forum going.


Include "ruff" cost and anything you can think of... in each stage.

 

Ok... I will start.

My suggestion for a "Stage 1" kit. Is something that is relatively temporary. Something that could be removed relatively easily, isn't going to deteriorate resale drastically. For the owner that wants "plug and burn" - without having many other issues.
2 - ups the game, more indepth, legalities of road use may be "state dependant" .
3 - race ready - requires love, and long discussions with your local Ford rep on pistons melting .

I will deal with the 6.0l (because I know it better, despite owning a 7.3l).
Stage 1.
Super Chips Micro Tuner (or similar), gauges, a cat back exhaust.

Stage 2.
SCT with custom tuning, gauges, 4" dump pipe, head studs, full exhaust system.

Stage 3.
SCT with custom tuning, gauges 4" dump pipe, complete exhaust (or just take it all off ), water/methanol injection, head studs, nitrous. Quite possibly a change to a non-VV Turbo too... (for simplicity when you head to stage 4)

Stage 4.
Ask Matt
My only worthwhile suggestion in this area would be to get a rotary...

 

I’ll start with a 7.3 powerstroke stage one system

Air intake: 6637 or Ford AIS 6637- $30

Provides enough volume of clean air for added fuel
Con: 6637 is too noisy for some
4” Exhaust (turbo back) – $400 – 700

Expells exhaust gas and lowers egt’s
Pro:Sounds cool

Gauges: $300
Let driver moniter engine warning signs
Pro: save your motor and trans and watch the boost gauge when you romp on it ( way cool)

Generic chip/tuner: $100-400
Adds extra power
Pro: duh extra power
Con: some are better than others read around on who’s is best ( cough cough DP tuner)

Stage 1 and a half

AIH delete - $ 20
Removes restriction from air intake tract

Zoodad Intake mod – free
Does it increase performance maybe but hey its free

CCV mod - $20
Removes crankcase vent from intake
Pro: no more oil residue on I/C pipes

Pre-pump mods/ intank /hutch/harpoon mods – Less than $50 just a lot of patience
Eliminates air induction to fuel supply
Pro: increase injector life/ quieter engine

I/c pipe foil removal – Free just really cool
No performance benefit

Wicked Wheel - $70
Maybe some hp but maily just for the cool whistle sound

T/c Lockup override switch (auto only) $5
Manual override for t/c lockup
Pro: use engine braking on decents and lower trans temp while towing etc.



I know I probly forgot a few
I'll revise it and add stage two three etc later

 

Oh dear god. LOL.

I don't really know anything but "Stage Stopped f-ing counting" so here goes.

Most crucial component to a true hi-perf 6.0- the oil system.
If you want real power, start with a dry sump (ask for more details) and some Motorcraft Full-Synthetic 5w-50 GT oil. No it is NOT CI-4 or CJ-4 rated and frankly I do not give a damn- at 5000 rpm it simply works better. 5w-50 also works to keep the stock oil pump alive under high horsepower conditions by preventing pump cavitation.

Cooling system- pair of PWM-controlled, seperated bank twin electric water pumps and punched-out water orfices in the head gaskets will do wonders, along with extrude-honing the water jacket, and Evans coolant.

Crankcase and shortblock- Call Cunningham for Rods, Arias for pistons. Take block to local machine shop, remove stock bore and drive in stainless .250-over sleeves. More easily fixed later when you tear it all to hell. Titanium wristpins and connecting rods work well for short-term use but will wear connecting rod bearings and wristpin bushings more quickly. If you are willing to drop 9k for a crankshaft, call Southern Illinois Crankshaft or any other shop capable of handling it and get yourself a soild billet one- lightened, heat-treated and undercut. Piston jets are a must- go as big as your oil pump will support- .040 orfices seems to work well.

I'll finish this later because I'm lazy and tired of typing.

 

i know you have gone to hell and back with modding that 6.0's of yours. care to list the major mods that you want to?

do you by chance have a $9000 crankshaft?

 

If we ask Matt we will all be driving a Focus.


That ain't gonna happen.

 

Now all this time i thought you were concerned about keeping your 3/36 and 5/100,000 mile FMC warranties intact LOL

If anyone comes into this forum and brings up what FMC will think or what it will do to their warranty, then "Admin" needs to immediately show them the door out and have them Shot

This is the pay to play and go fast forum and needs to stay as such.

Matt keep up the good information and posts. Your endless knowledge never ceases to amaze me. Thanks again for all your great info and advice

 

I can see this is gonna be a

 

You should work with this guy on a regular basis. His mind never stops thinking about something else to improve on, even if he has done it a thousand times before. Sometimes we're , but I do it to stimulate his mind (like it really needs it) and he quite frequently comes up with ANOTHER stroke of genius on some foolishly simple trick that really makes these things go.

I'll take my turn here--simple things for the poor man like me :

Stage 1: SCT tuner (none other required--IMHO), Catback exhaust, gauges.
Stage 2: SCT tuner w/ Matt's tunes, Turbo back exhaust w/ kitty delete muffler optional, fuel system pressure upgrade, CCV reroute.
Stage 3: Stage 2 plus: Bigger turbo, larger intercooler, straight piped exhaust 4" turboback, complete fuel system upgrade, 190+ cc injectors. You MIGHT want to consider somekind of A/M cottongauze airfilter/intake at this point. Depends on how often you want to change your turbo impeller when it gets trashed.
Stage 4: See Matt.

 

Um, let me just say... its a different Matt...
p.s. and his user name might be PSD 60L Fx4

Don't worry, I am more aware than most what an FMC rep will or won't do... and this forum ain't for that...

its all about the horsepowers baby....

 

I don't think blackhat was refering to FMC corporate, I think he means ANYONE period, that comes in and preaches about warranty issues.

 

Now that would be great to spend sometime turnin wrenches, talking and learning. Unfortunately live on the wrong side of the country for that. But through the wounders of technology,the internet and FTE at least i can read his posts.

 

Yes that would be a correct statement

 

I don't think blackhat was refering to FMC corporate, I think he means ANYONE period, that comes in and preaches about warranty issues.
That was the way it was recieved.

Now back on topic.

 

Stage One,
The first mod anyone wanting to up the power on a diesel should do is add a good set of gauges.
Pyrometer, boost and tranny temp if it is an automatic.
Another wise gauge to install is engine oil temp.
As far as the IDI engine trucks went you should also consider a manual oil pressure and temp gauge, the stock units were useless.

Good gauges are a foundation for any power increase mods.