pyro problem
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pyro problem
Does anyone have pics in their gallery of where they have mounted their pyro thermocoupler. I drilled and tapped mine into the pipe right before the turbo. Is this a good area? I am not getting any kind of reading right now. Actually it is getting to just over 100 degrees no matter how hard I get after it. I searched on this and saw some problems with the older Autometer pyro gauges. I'm just checking to see if I did everything right before calling or returning the gauge. I also ran the same ignition power line for both this gauge and the trans temp. Seemed like this was causing some problems before also. Should I change this?
96 F-250 PSD CC
6637 Intake 3" downpipe 4" Tymar Exhaust minus the cat
Autometer Phantom gauges
Waiting for Wildman chip
96 F-250 PSD CC
6637 Intake 3" downpipe 4" Tymar Exhaust minus the cat
Autometer Phantom gauges
Waiting for Wildman chip
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Sorry to be a PITA but one more thought. Can both gauge power supplies be run to the same fuse on the fuse block or should that be seperate also?
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OK,,,, I ran new wire for both the power and ground on a seperate set of wires. Still have the same problem. Temp reads a solid 125 no matter how hard I get after it. I checked the power supply wire with a test light at the gauge and it has power. I also checked the red and yellow wires coming from the probe. Neither of these showed any power. Is this correct? The only other thing I can think of is the gauge came with a long set of wires for the power supply that was attached to the gauge. I had run my wires for power and ground to the gauge already and did not want a bunch of wire bundled up in the gauge pod so I cut these wires down. Should that make a difference? Should I reconnect these wires and run them directly to the power supply and ground? Is there something I should check with an ohmmeter to see if the gauge is faulty?
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Pasco, WA
You should have very little voltage between the probe wires, something on the order of a few millivolts. If the wires you ran for gauge power are smaller than those provided by the factory, that could be trouble. Shortening the wire is OK. Can't think of anything an ohmeter can tell you, except for continuity thru the probe.
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I guess one more thought before I drive over to the performance shop. I used teflon thread sealer (the putty type, not tape) on the threads for the thermocoupler into the up pipe. Does this connection need to be grounded? Is the thread sealant preventing a ground?
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Pasco, WA
Thermocouples don't ground out through the tip; you should read infinity (open-circuit) from the tip to either wire of the sender. However, teflon sealer will burn out in nothing flat. The threads should be clean.
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Disconnect the thermocouple leads from the gauge and apply power to the gauge. If the gauge is reading ambient temperature the gauge is good and the probe is bad. If the gauge is not reading ambient then it is bad.
You didn't cut or otherwise alter the thermocouple leads did you? Additional reference junctions will change the readings.
You didn't cut or otherwise alter the thermocouple leads did you? Additional reference junctions will change the readings.
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No I didn't change the thermo leads at all. I will pull it out again and put power to those leads though and see what happens. I have double checked everything I can think of. Boost and tranny gauges seem to be working well. I'm making about 20 lbs boost when I really get after it around 2800 rpm. I had a 97 with a Banks system on it that I dont remember ever getting over 15 lbs. The 6637 intake and Tymar exhaust work well.