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I know about the recommended rust encapsulating products like por-15, zero rust, rust bullet and the like, but I'm concerned about uv.
The sun here in georgia is brutal to uv sensitive materials, even if they have blockers and my frame will be exposed for maybe a year without the body.
Does anyone know anything about alternative products like sem's rust shield? It's very pricey and with good prep using pressure washing, caustic, and acid etching I really think rustoleum would be ok for my needs.
Ever thought about covering your frame? Spend some quality Bling-Bling on one of those rubber impregnated tarps and some bungy cords to keep it from flying off
I've been keeping it covered, but it's a hassle cause it collects water that I have to dump. Guess I have no choice about that.
I've searched a half dozen places looking for por-15 but no one here seems to carry it. I finally stopped at the local paint supply and they suggested this sem product, but it's higher then all the rust encapsulators. They said it's been in used for protecting farm implements for a very long time now.
I'm taking the Sem Rust Shield back anyway, the $80 they charged me for a gallon is just too much for my needs and will go along way toward body paint or a better gun.
Last edited by crawlfish; Oct 21, 2006 at 09:18 PM.
I've seen car covers made with pvc pipe frameworks(simple triangle shape) with a tarp stretched over it and hold down clips holding the tarp tight. Keeps the rain and snow off. try this link for similar, and parts suppliers: http://www.pvcplans.com/atv-golfcart-quad-cover.htm
Eastwood sells a product called Rust Encapsulator that supposedly does not need to be top coated and is UV impervious. At least that is their claims anyway.
I've been looking locally for reasonably priced paints to cover my frame. I've cleaned it best I could but some areas are really hard to get to, like under the shock brackets etc.
Rustoleum has an oil-based rust primer, that so far as I've found comes only in red oxide. They recommend it when priming other than pristine bare metal and then state to follow it with a topcoat of their enamel. It's thinned only with acetone if needed, and the can says to apply an enamel top coat within sixty days.
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I think the clear coat is a good idea because after spray painting sundry brackets and such a couple months ago the paint is fading already and this may have stabilized it.
Alternatively, Tractor Supply has an enamel to protect against rust, but it too recommends another product that's a rust primer. They say its used for tractors and implements.
Then there's self-etching primers but I don't know what that's about and I haven't found any epoxy or 2k stuff whatever that is.
I was wanting plain 'ole grey but am rethinking that since they say to cover it with a top coat and I haven't found a grey topcoat locally so far.
I'm thinking just go with the red oxide and follow it as the can suggests with an enamel top coat, maybe with a hardener mixed in that Tractor Supply sells.
Why don't you like using the clearcoat?
Last edited by crawlfish; Oct 28, 2006 at 09:53 PM.
Go spray water on something and try to get it not to run. It's a lot like that However, for a frame, it would probably be fine as it doesn't sound like the frame is "american hotrod" smooth anyway.
hah, I see. Well, I'm not too concerned about the frame being pristine and I'm not lifted. I'm more into good function and low cost. After that it's mostly a test of spray gun familiarity and developing technique before I paint the body where I care much more.
An aquintance's father-in-law is using an epoxy primer for his restorations. Might check around see how much that costs and where it's sold.
BTW, the reason I was looking at a grey primer, I was thinking (maybe naively) that I'd see missed areas better and it'd help me ensure complete coverage. Someone else posted elsewhere here to look for lower viscosity encapsulators/paints which would flow through cracks and such too.