To clean the engine or not?
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New User
Joined: Oct 2006
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To clean the engine or not?
I plan on some general maintenance on my 94 xl sport. I want to clean the engine as it's pretty dirty. I want to go about it the right way though. Any tips would be appreciated before I start a belt change this weekend.
Love this forum! I have been sifting through all sorts of info. since buying my aerostar a week ago.
Love this forum! I have been sifting through all sorts of info. since buying my aerostar a week ago.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,452
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From: Southern California
Hi 3Deflight
Welcome to our FTE forum
I have never cleaned the engine before. I would imagine the battery has to be out along with the alternator, and nylon bags+rubber band on all fluid reservoirs etc...
Don't take my word for it though; as I said, I have never done it before.
Enjoy your van.
Welcome to our FTE forum
I have never cleaned the engine before. I would imagine the battery has to be out along with the alternator, and nylon bags+rubber band on all fluid reservoirs etc...
Don't take my word for it though; as I said, I have never done it before.
Enjoy your van.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,818
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Welcome to FTE!
Yes, clean engines are much nicer to work around - give it a bath. You might want to look further down the forum listings to "Appearance & Dress Up" as the engine bay cleaning topic has been exhaustively discussed there. There is a great tip regarding the use of Armor-All. After the engine has been well cleaned and dry, apply a final, saturation coating of Armor-All, close the hood and let it set overnight. Next day, rinse lightly with garden hose and let it dry. You'll be pleasantly surprised how nice and new everything looks.
Yes, clean engines are much nicer to work around - give it a bath. You might want to look further down the forum listings to "Appearance & Dress Up" as the engine bay cleaning topic has been exhaustively discussed there. There is a great tip regarding the use of Armor-All. After the engine has been well cleaned and dry, apply a final, saturation coating of Armor-All, close the hood and let it set overnight. Next day, rinse lightly with garden hose and let it dry. You'll be pleasantly surprised how nice and new everything looks.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2005
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I agree that a clean engine is nicer in all respects but have seen much electrical damage done by overzealous washing.
I now practice a happy medium solution. When I wash the truck I always take a damp cloth to all parts visible and this keeps the muck from getting knee deep. I do the armor all thing too but never take a hose to it.
Ken
I now practice a happy medium solution. When I wash the truck I always take a damp cloth to all parts visible and this keeps the muck from getting knee deep. I do the armor all thing too but never take a hose to it.
Ken
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2001
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Resistance to using a hose should be tempered by the realization that mucho water gets up in the engine compartment during any prolonged drive in a pouring rain. Through the grill and literally sucked in by the fan and then flung all over the place by the fan blades.
The old engine compartment can handle a lot more water than one would think. Judicious application is the key and one needs not blast away as if putting out a bonfire.
Alternatively, with a long reach air gun wand (Harbor Freight), compressor and some goggles you can make a delightful mess. This method is good for those tight areas, deep crack or places you don't a lot of water on. As stated, it does generate a lot of flying greasy dirt and anything else trapped in there.
The old engine compartment can handle a lot more water than one would think. Judicious application is the key and one needs not blast away as if putting out a bonfire.
Alternatively, with a long reach air gun wand (Harbor Freight), compressor and some goggles you can make a delightful mess. This method is good for those tight areas, deep crack or places you don't a lot of water on. As stated, it does generate a lot of flying greasy dirt and anything else trapped in there.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
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From: Washington state
keep any pressure spraying or hose nozzles away from electrical...
the Ford electrical connectors are at best water resistance not water proof and certainly not rated for high pressure water or steam spray...
one area to clean well is battery compartment....take battery out and soak down batt. box area and fender with a baking soda solution....rinse off well
do not spray anywhere around PCM/ECU....TPS and alternator are also easily damaged
the Ford electrical connectors are at best water resistance not water proof and certainly not rated for high pressure water or steam spray...
one area to clean well is battery compartment....take battery out and soak down batt. box area and fender with a baking soda solution....rinse off well
do not spray anywhere around PCM/ECU....TPS and alternator are also easily damaged
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Great tips!
Wow! Some great ideas. Thanks! I read some in the "Appearance & Dress Up"
section too and learned many new tips and tricks for detailing and cleaning.
Thanks again!
section too and learned many new tips and tricks for detailing and cleaning.
Thanks again!
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: SoCal
The best method I've used to clean the engine is rather old fashined; with a grout brush and spray bottle of degreaser. The most serious grime build up usually does not come off with any kind of pressure sprayer, and they're usually behind other parts.
Take for example a leak in the front of the intake manifold or valve cover. As the oils seeps down the front of the engine, and dirt gets blown onto it, a layer of greasy sludge is formed. Engine heat will bake that into an incredibly strong structure. As more oil leaks over it, the process repeats. The only thing that gets that off is direct scraping and burshing, with lots of degreaser. But usually there are a lot of engine accessories in the way, so it's also necessary to remove those first. I found this out while replacing the gaskets for the front cover and water pump.
The other common place that builds up serious gunk is underneath the engine, where leaks from above, or from that oil level sensor, cover everything, and then catches all the dirt that goes by. Again, pressure washers just seem to scratch the surface, as it were.
Take for example a leak in the front of the intake manifold or valve cover. As the oils seeps down the front of the engine, and dirt gets blown onto it, a layer of greasy sludge is formed. Engine heat will bake that into an incredibly strong structure. As more oil leaks over it, the process repeats. The only thing that gets that off is direct scraping and burshing, with lots of degreaser. But usually there are a lot of engine accessories in the way, so it's also necessary to remove those first. I found this out while replacing the gaskets for the front cover and water pump.
The other common place that builds up serious gunk is underneath the engine, where leaks from above, or from that oil level sensor, cover everything, and then catches all the dirt that goes by. Again, pressure washers just seem to scratch the surface, as it were.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Kiev, Ukraine
I use periodically Karcher hight pressure sprayer, but be carefull... remove wires before... The pressure of water is so hight, that water comes under the caps and there is only one way to put it away - remove wires and use compressed air, so remove them before and use hot water ore mix of hot water and liquid for kitchen washing mashine...
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Cincy, OH
I'd just like to mirror all the suggestions, I used to do details a long time ago for a locally owned car wash. Some kind of engine cleaner, a scrub brush, and we even used a power sprayer. Most of the work being done by bucket water, a brush, and the 'takeoff' it was called. We'd always leave the car running, and one person would get in and raise the rpms, while the other person was spraying. Ok maybe that part wasn't the greatest idea, but the owner insisted it be done that way. Armor all definately makes the compartment look nice.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,041
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From: Orland USA
The car lot I used to work at they ran the car to warm up the engine.
Then they sprayed it all over with a can of Degreaser.
Then they had a Steam-Cleaner that they used.
Made the engines shine.
JaY
Then they sprayed it all over with a can of Degreaser.
Then they had a Steam-Cleaner that they used.
Made the engines shine.
JaY
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,166
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From: Chino, California
Originally Posted by JTHill24
The car lot I used to work at they ran the car to warm up the engine.
Then they sprayed it all over with a can of Degreaser.
Then they had a Steam-Cleaner that they used.
Made the engines shine.
JaY
Then they sprayed it all over with a can of Degreaser.
Then they had a Steam-Cleaner that they used.
Made the engines shine.
JaY
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,166
Likes: 0
From: Chino, California
Originally Posted by JTHill24
They've been doing it that way for 40 years and have never had any problems. So they must know what they're doing.
JaY
JaY
I stand by what I say, and even if parts don't crack from temperature shock, you are taking a big risk of water invading connectors.
I use a 'hudson' sprayer and I am very careful not to get water into places that will eventually lead to corrosion or shorting out or other headaches.
The Triton engines are famous for having moisture trapped in the sparkplug wells and eroding the COPs until they finally fail.
Not all problems become immediately evident.