Oil pressure weirdess/stalling
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Oil pressure weirdess/stalling
I just got a '78 f250. I'm not sure if its a 351m or 400m. It has a dipstick on both sides of the engine for some reason. Anyways... Supposedly the engine had been rebuilt maybe 10k-20k ago. When I first start it up, it has pretty high oil pressure, and if I touch the gas pedal at all and let back off, RPM's drop way low and it stalls. It does this until it has warmed up for a while, then it will idle fine if i touch the gas. Also, after it has been running for maybe 5-10 minutes, the oil pressure would drop until the guage needle bottoms out. I'm guessing the oil/filter hasn't been changed in quite some time, maybe replacing them will fix this? Any help/ideas would be greatly appreciated!
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There is no such thing as a 400M
Just call it the 400 because that's what it is.
There are a few reasons for weird oil pressure gauge readings.
1) Wrong Sending unit installed.
One is for Gauge & another for Idiot lights.
Make sure you have the gauge SU installed.
2) Carbon deposits or gasket material plugs then relieves.
3) Expansion of bearings by heat will lower pressure.
Just call it the 400 because that's what it is.
There are a few reasons for weird oil pressure gauge readings.
1) Wrong Sending unit installed.
One is for Gauge & another for Idiot lights.
Make sure you have the gauge SU installed.
2) Carbon deposits or gasket material plugs then relieves.
3) Expansion of bearings by heat will lower pressure.
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Well I decided to pop the drivers side valve cover off, and what was inside was disgusting. Globs of beige/white stuff all over the inside of the valve covers, rust on the rockers/pushrods, and all kinds of other assorted chunks/globs of stuff. I'm just gonna go ahead and pull the motor out and go through it and clean it thoroughly. Hopefully it doesn't need another rebuild, but if it does, is it possible to sleeve the cylinder walls? If so how does it hold up compared to an unsleeved stock-bore cylinder?
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