How long is this EBPV supposed to stay closed? Seems like mine may be staying closed longer than it should. It stayed on till my engine temp was around 145 F. I'm thinking about unplugging it but its getting colder by the day.

 

That's seems right. IIRC it's supposed to open @ 117F. I unplugged mine 1 year ago and never really noticed much difference in warm up time.

 

i was thinking about unplugging or gutting mine until i heart it kick on with the straight pipe after i took my foot out of it the other morning. gave me a warm fuzzy feeling, only made better when i put my foot back into it and heard a menacing whoosh when it opened up as it built up boost

 

^^^ the same thing happened to me 2 days ago...scared the crap out of me. I couldnt tell what it was untill I opened my windows..when it starts closing and then you give it throttle it goes "wwwoooosshhhhhhhh-fflluuuump" hahaha. Hasnt done it again yet.

 

Correct me if im wrong, its 117F based on oil temperature, the coolant could be hotter

 

Just put a toggle switch on it to turn it on and off. Thats what I did. I found when I unplugged it, when it was below 20ish it took forever for the thing to warm up, and then I didnt have much heat in the cab. With the toggle I turn it off when I'm accelerating, and flip it back on when braking or costing. Best of both worlds.

 

Yep, coolant should be a bit warmer. FYI: The Coolant temperature is not used to control the EBPV. The PCM uses the measured exhaust back pressure, ambient air temperature and engine oil temperature to determine the desired exhaust back pressure.

 

My goal is to be able to control it with a toggle. How hard is this to do? EJL96, can you give me some quick directions on the wiring?

 

theres a write up on Baz's page, I think its down near the bottom and called "DIY exhuast brake"

 

Thanks for the information lead. However, I just want to have a single throw switch that will allow me to turn it on and off when desired.

 

I just got done doing the EBPV mod on my "97" (along with the tc lock-up mod) & it looks like all you need to do to disable it would be cut either wire going to the EBPV plug & add wires to the cut ends to reach your switch. I don't know if that would cause any codes or not though. Hope that helps.

 

What Power Strokeme said is all that I did. There are just two wires going to the EBPV, I chose the one that was eaiser to get in there to solder - from what I remember it was kinda tight. then I just ran it to a simple on/off toggle on the dash that is easy to reach. I havent had any problems. Huge improvement when trying to drive on ice - the EBPV doesnt randomly disenguage and send the tires spinnin

 

Ok, I know I'm beating the heck out of this simple mod, but do i need the The two rectifier diodes? I have a wiring handicap. Do I need a power source for the switch or can I simply splice one of the wires going to the EBPV?

 

I think im goin to put a pushbutton on my floor that i can just step on it for activation whenever i want it to close.
---------jeremy

 

As I understand it Farm 69, you want to be able to throw a switch & keep the ebpv from going closed when the computer wants it closed for warm up. What you need to do to interrupt the circuit is..

1 Cut one of the wires that connects to the ebpv. I recommend the ground wire which on my 97 F-250 was black with pink tracer, might have been red tracer but faded. To be sure you have the ground (and I did this) unplug it, grab a test light & ground the end, start the truck & touch the test light to the wires one at a time. The ground wire will do nothing & the "hot" wire will make the test light flicker.
2 Add enough wire to both ends of the wire you just cut to reach the switch you need to mount on the dash. Be careful to protect the wires where they pass through the firewall, you dont want them vibrating against the sheet metal & shorting out, that would allow the ebpr to work again. (that's also why I recommend the ground wire, it shouldn't harm the ecm, if it shorts out the wire was going to ground anyway)
3 Run the wires to the switch (2 prong "on-off" style is fine)
4 With the switch "on" the ebpv will function as normal. With the switch "off" the ground is disconnected and the ebpv should go open.
As I understand it the ebpv is actually opened & closed by oil pressure the wires you add the switch to, control a valve that controls oil to the ebpv, if it sees no voltage the oil bleeds off & the ebpv opens. I dont see the need for diodes because you are not sending voltage from the switch that could feed back to the computer you are just keeping the computer from geting its way so the worst I can see happen is the ecm may throw a code relating to the EPR.
An easier way altogether might be to simply unplug the ebpr and not let it work at all (depending on your climate of course) I don't see how this would hurt except the ebpv would never cycle & may become stuck if you decide to plug it back in.
If I'm wrong I'm sure someone will correct me. I hope this helps.

Good luck & God bless.