Serious brake issues
Tuned
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 345
Likes: 4
From: Southern IL
I would say that one of the most important things that get overlooked are the caliper slides. They need to be clean and lubed with caliper slide grease so they will release properly. Wheel bearings need to be packed and properly adjusted, then the rotors checked for grooves and true (round).
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 691
Likes: 0
From: Eau Claire, WI
FIXED!!!
Brakes are NOT the place for chineese or (gasp) home-made parts...
My grampa put in some really cheap china self asjusting screws, the were rusty, and not self adjusting properly... Also, there was a homemade spring and washer on the parking brake spanner. I couldnt find the washer, but I did get a new spring, and it stops perfectly... I need to recenter the ball in the proportioning valve, but... It stops perfectly
Do NOT cobble brakes with cheap or home made parts, it's just not safe, and it's extreamly expensive for whoever wants to get to stop again properly... Especially if you dont tell anybody you used cheap**** parts, and made some.
Gee, here's what I've got new, because of this...
Master cylinder, booster, all hard lines, all soft lines, new frount pads and calipers (rotors were fairly new), new rear wheel cylinders, shoes, and spring/hardware kit...
Around $400.... wow, damn, that's alot of money
Tks for the help
~Nate
Brakes are NOT the place for chineese or (gasp) home-made parts...
My grampa put in some really cheap china self asjusting screws, the were rusty, and not self adjusting properly... Also, there was a homemade spring and washer on the parking brake spanner. I couldnt find the washer, but I did get a new spring, and it stops perfectly... I need to recenter the ball in the proportioning valve, but... It stops perfectly
Do NOT cobble brakes with cheap or home made parts, it's just not safe, and it's extreamly expensive for whoever wants to get to stop again properly... Especially if you dont tell anybody you used cheap**** parts, and made some.
Gee, here's what I've got new, because of this...
Master cylinder, booster, all hard lines, all soft lines, new frount pads and calipers (rotors were fairly new), new rear wheel cylinders, shoes, and spring/hardware kit...
Around $400.... wow, damn, that's alot of money
Tks for the help
~Nate
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 691
Likes: 0
From: Eau Claire, WI
The brake warning light is on... but I'll fix that at school when I get the chance.
Or, just take out the light bulb... not a good idea because the next person in line to drive it is a 16 year old girl.
I crack the frount line on the proportioning valve, because I was working on the back, correct?
There's only so many brake lines I can play with, I'll figure it out....
tks alot
~Nate
Or, just take out the light bulb... not a good idea because the next person in line to drive it is a 16 year old girl.
I crack the frount line on the proportioning valve, because I was working on the back, correct?
There's only so many brake lines I can play with, I'll figure it out....
tks alot
~Nate
Tuned
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 345
Likes: 4
From: Southern IL
What I'm trying to tell ya is that if you have bled the brakes and have no leaks, it will go out. Start with the brake farthest away from the master cylinder and work your way back to the one closest. Back right, back left, front right, front left, bam, your done. The ball will center or you still have a problem, one or the other.
