I need some help on an overheating problem
#16
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Sun River St. George
Posts: 3,563
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I hope the problem is resolved. But, is the backer plate for the water pump installed? Are you 100% sure you didn't swap the gaskets for the pump and plate? This is a wild random thought (I get these more and more lately). Is it possible that you have a pump for a serpentine system installed with V belts or vice-versa (reverse pump rotation)?
#17
William,
I wondered the same thing. I had a shop in Cottonwood Az that had a very good reputation do the work. Now I'm back in Nevada. So I'm not sure. I figure I will run it as it is. One day if I get the ambition I may go looking. I'm pretty sure the pump is right I can see the direction the water is flowing. from bottom to top. I can see the water flowing toward the top hose. But the plate and gasket issue maybe something.
Thanks for your thoughts much appreciated. Craig
I wondered the same thing. I had a shop in Cottonwood Az that had a very good reputation do the work. Now I'm back in Nevada. So I'm not sure. I figure I will run it as it is. One day if I get the ambition I may go looking. I'm pretty sure the pump is right I can see the direction the water is flowing. from bottom to top. I can see the water flowing toward the top hose. But the plate and gasket issue maybe something.
Thanks for your thoughts much appreciated. Craig
#18
kermmydog,
I was wondering if you can get all the water in your radiator that Ford call out. I read a post on a RV forum where some one had a simualer problem. He replaced the radiator with one from one of the chains ad they swore it was THE right one. He spent lots of money on trying to make it cool and discoverd it didn't hold the righ amount of water. He ended up going to a Ford dealer and ordering a replacement. The Ford one was biger thicker and held more water by everal qarts than the replacment. I don't know if this has aney bering but I thought I would bring it up. I mised why you changed the radiator and if it was a upgrade.
Good luck
Bill
I was wondering if you can get all the water in your radiator that Ford call out. I read a post on a RV forum where some one had a simualer problem. He replaced the radiator with one from one of the chains ad they swore it was THE right one. He spent lots of money on trying to make it cool and discoverd it didn't hold the righ amount of water. He ended up going to a Ford dealer and ordering a replacement. The Ford one was biger thicker and held more water by everal qarts than the replacment. I don't know if this has aney bering but I thought I would bring it up. I mised why you changed the radiator and if it was a upgrade.
Good luck
Bill
#19
Originally Posted by Bear 45/70
Ford tried the 3 core thing in the '83 and '84 trucks but went back to the 4 core after that. I know a 3 core is on the minimum side for cooling with any kind of warm weather or heavy load.
Bear, you are a repository of great 385 info! Thanks!
#20
Originally Posted by Big O Dave
Hmmm... my '83 F250 with a 460 still has the original radiator (I have all of the service records), and it DOES get hot in traffic jams in the summer... now I know why.
Bear, you are a repository of great 385 info! Thanks!
Bear, you are a repository of great 385 info! Thanks!
#21
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/cata...&parttype=2088
I changed Clyde over to a four core a few years ago. At that time Rock Auto was selling the TransPro HeatbusteR. The above link is a bookmark I had placed when I ordered. It looks like they have changed lines and I don't know a lot about Four Seasons but I'm ASSUMING that it's comparable to the one I installed.
Clyde has the trailer tow package and came with a three core from the factory. I bought it in '96 with 38K. I had a friend who was an experienced Ford truck mechanic go over the truck, he assured me that at that time everything was original and that I'd better get that little by-pass hose replaced right NOW !
Even with the four-core radiator it tends to run on the warm side towing at higher ambient temperatures.
I changed Clyde over to a four core a few years ago. At that time Rock Auto was selling the TransPro HeatbusteR. The above link is a bookmark I had placed when I ordered. It looks like they have changed lines and I don't know a lot about Four Seasons but I'm ASSUMING that it's comparable to the one I installed.
Clyde has the trailer tow package and came with a three core from the factory. I bought it in '96 with 38K. I had a friend who was an experienced Ford truck mechanic go over the truck, he assured me that at that time everything was original and that I'd better get that little by-pass hose replaced right NOW !
Even with the four-core radiator it tends to run on the warm side towing at higher ambient temperatures.
#23
Here's the lastest in this problem. This weekend my wife & I traveled 450 mile with our F250.
Again I'm running a 160 dergee thermo, and I never had any heating issues until I had a new timing chain, ( Cloyes TRUE Street Roller advanced 4 dergees past TDC.) water pump, & radiator installed. My timing is 10 degress, Vacumn adv works & is hooked to ported vac. I have a new Stewart-Warner mech. temp gauge.
This what happened. I drove for about 50 miles with the temp at 185 degrees. Then the gauge started climbing to around 200 degrees & ran like that for a few miles then jumped to 230 degrees. (I was running about 65-70 MPH about 2600 RPM.) I backed off the gas and the temp dropped back to about 195 and ran like that for 30 miles. Then it would start doing the same thing all over. On the way home it ran 190 for 120 miles. we stopped for dinner and when we started on the last leg of our trip. The temp climbed right up to 200 degrees and stayed there for about 35 miles, then cooled to around 190 and remained that way all the way home. outside temps were between 20-40 degrees. this entire trip.
I looked at the pump yesterday and I don't see anything but a gasket between the pump & timing cover. SHOULDN"T THE BACKING PLATE BE VISABLE? If the backing plate is not installed could the condition I mentioned be caused by the pump cavating causing air to get into the system causing this varing of temperature. Before with the old pump, radiator, & timing chain the temp would run around 5-10 degrees above the thermo setting. 180 degree themo the truck ran 185-190 all day long winter or summer. Empty or pulling our 10,000# trailer. This radiator is the second aftermarket radiator I have installed. The stock Ford radiator started leaking after 123,000 miles.
So I'm thinking my problem maybe the LACK of a backing plate. I never ran into a Ford that the backing plate was missing to know how it will act. Thanks
Again I'm running a 160 dergee thermo, and I never had any heating issues until I had a new timing chain, ( Cloyes TRUE Street Roller advanced 4 dergees past TDC.) water pump, & radiator installed. My timing is 10 degress, Vacumn adv works & is hooked to ported vac. I have a new Stewart-Warner mech. temp gauge.
This what happened. I drove for about 50 miles with the temp at 185 degrees. Then the gauge started climbing to around 200 degrees & ran like that for a few miles then jumped to 230 degrees. (I was running about 65-70 MPH about 2600 RPM.) I backed off the gas and the temp dropped back to about 195 and ran like that for 30 miles. Then it would start doing the same thing all over. On the way home it ran 190 for 120 miles. we stopped for dinner and when we started on the last leg of our trip. The temp climbed right up to 200 degrees and stayed there for about 35 miles, then cooled to around 190 and remained that way all the way home. outside temps were between 20-40 degrees. this entire trip.
I looked at the pump yesterday and I don't see anything but a gasket between the pump & timing cover. SHOULDN"T THE BACKING PLATE BE VISABLE? If the backing plate is not installed could the condition I mentioned be caused by the pump cavating causing air to get into the system causing this varing of temperature. Before with the old pump, radiator, & timing chain the temp would run around 5-10 degrees above the thermo setting. 180 degree themo the truck ran 185-190 all day long winter or summer. Empty or pulling our 10,000# trailer. This radiator is the second aftermarket radiator I have installed. The stock Ford radiator started leaking after 123,000 miles.
So I'm thinking my problem maybe the LACK of a backing plate. I never ran into a Ford that the backing plate was missing to know how it will act. Thanks
Last edited by kermmydog; 11-12-2006 at 09:38 PM.
#25
Thanks William, I finished fixing the damage I caused to my wife's Dodge today. So this weekend I plan to pull the pump and see what I have. I ordered a backing plate from the Ford Dealer today. Tommorrow I will buy the gaskets from Napa. I will post what I find and if that solves the problem.
Thanks to all for your help & suggestions. I'm praying I find the backing plate missing. That way a solution maybe in sight. I have been messing with this for 6 months now and would like a fix.
Craig
Thanks to all for your help & suggestions. I'm praying I find the backing plate missing. That way a solution maybe in sight. I have been messing with this for 6 months now and would like a fix.
Craig
#26
Originally Posted by kermmydog
Thanks William, I finished fixing the damage I caused to my wife's Dodge today. So this weekend I plan to pull the pump and see what I have. I ordered a backing plate from the Ford Dealer today. Tommorrow I will buy the gaskets from Napa. I will post what I find and if that solves the problem.
Thanks to all for your help & suggestions. I'm praying I find the backing plate missing. That way a solution maybe in sight. I have been messing with this for 6 months now and would like a fix.
Craig
Thanks to all for your help & suggestions. I'm praying I find the backing plate missing. That way a solution maybe in sight. I have been messing with this for 6 months now and would like a fix.
Craig
I hope this fixes your problem I know how tiering it can be to have a naging problem.
Bill
#27
Originally Posted by WILDEBILL308
Craig did you get my email? I would look at the pump modificaqtion I mailed you about, as long as you are pulling it to check the backing plate.
I hope this fixes your problem I know how tiering it can be to have a naging problem.
Bill
I hope this fixes your problem I know how tiering it can be to have a naging problem.
Bill
Bill you can email me direct to the address I sent your reply from. Again Thanks to all for the help. I really appreciate this forum and all who are a part of it.
Craig
#28
Originally Posted by kermmydog
William,
I wondered the same thing. I had a shop in Cottonwood Az that had a very good reputation do the work. Now I'm back in Nevada. So I'm not sure. I figure I will run it as it is. One day if I get the ambition I may go looking. I'm pretty sure the pump is right I can see the direction the water is flowing. from bottom to top. I can see the water flowing toward the top hose. But the plate and gasket issue maybe something.
Thanks for your thoughts much appreciated. Craig
I wondered the same thing. I had a shop in Cottonwood Az that had a very good reputation do the work. Now I'm back in Nevada. So I'm not sure. I figure I will run it as it is. One day if I get the ambition I may go looking. I'm pretty sure the pump is right I can see the direction the water is flowing. from bottom to top. I can see the water flowing toward the top hose. But the plate and gasket issue maybe something.
Thanks for your thoughts much appreciated. Craig