NAPA 6637 Mod for '97 psd 7.3
#1
NAPA 6637 Mod for '97 psd 7.3
Sounded like a good cheap mod. Bought one yesterday with the following results...
1. The connection from the NAPA 6637 is the same size as the rubber connector connector to the turbo elbow. Even if you made the connection the filter would not be in a good location.
2. Taking off the stock air intake assembly is a pain in the ***. There are three mounting bolts. The first is easy, the second and third are rubber grommets with no logical removal method- short of breaking the assembly.
3. The intake on the 6637 is short and tapered. Not sure that a clamp would hold.
Short of a visit to the local furnace dealer for some oddball flex hose and figuring out a way to secure the filter once connected, I think the original is the better option.
Maybe I missed something- but not as easy as advertised.
1. The connection from the NAPA 6637 is the same size as the rubber connector connector to the turbo elbow. Even if you made the connection the filter would not be in a good location.
2. Taking off the stock air intake assembly is a pain in the ***. There are three mounting bolts. The first is easy, the second and third are rubber grommets with no logical removal method- short of breaking the assembly.
3. The intake on the 6637 is short and tapered. Not sure that a clamp would hold.
Short of a visit to the local furnace dealer for some oddball flex hose and figuring out a way to secure the filter once connected, I think the original is the better option.
Maybe I missed something- but not as easy as advertised.
#2
True about beeing a pain but this is also most peoples first mod and helps them get familiar with their truck.
1) I used a 4-5" piece of 4" exhaust tubing to connect the filter to the tubing. Along with a exhaust bolt clamp to tighen the filter to the pipe. (thick material)
2) A squirt of oil on those rubber grommets lets it slide right off.
3) I ended up using an exhaust band clamp for this reason, normal clamps cannot tighen it.
The filter is so big that it wedges itself into the opening, I never secured it. The stock filter housing is prone to not sealing well and wont flow as much air as the 6637 filter. I gave myself peace of mind going back to a paper filter (had AFE drop in replacement) when driving down dirt roads. All in all this filter is bigger, filters very well, and seals very good when done correctly. Hope this helped
1) I used a 4-5" piece of 4" exhaust tubing to connect the filter to the tubing. Along with a exhaust bolt clamp to tighen the filter to the pipe. (thick material)
2) A squirt of oil on those rubber grommets lets it slide right off.
3) I ended up using an exhaust band clamp for this reason, normal clamps cannot tighen it.
The filter is so big that it wedges itself into the opening, I never secured it. The stock filter housing is prone to not sealing well and wont flow as much air as the 6637 filter. I gave myself peace of mind going back to a paper filter (had AFE drop in replacement) when driving down dirt roads. All in all this filter is bigger, filters very well, and seals very good when done correctly. Hope this helped
#3
#4
I used a 6" or so piece of 4" exhaust pipe, a heavy "T" bolt clamp (both from NAPA) and a Fleetguard AH1141 filter from International truck dealer - they order it in for me. I used the original black hose that attached to the factory air box and the clamp that held it on. The filter lays on the inner fender between the battery and the brake master cylinder, the intake air temp sensor I wire tied to one of the fender braces (you can see it in the picture linked below just to the right of the air filter, black sensor held on with a white zip tie). No problems since August of 2001 (100,000 or so miles). If I had it to do again I would buy the TYMAR from Dale Isley at Tymar Performance, more professional installation.
Click THIS LINK to go to a pic in my gallery here on this site.
Dave / Believer45
Click THIS LINK to go to a pic in my gallery here on this site.
Dave / Believer45
Last edited by believer45; 10-15-2006 at 10:24 PM.
#5
I agree with you Dave. I think you should buy the original Tymar setup to start with. It comes with the filter holder to keep it up off the fenderwell, and the boots and pipe that come with it put it in the perfect place. I'm not knocking the Kwik setup, as I have done it for several people. But if your hatin' your diy intake, try the original, I promise you will like it.
#6
One more point about the stock air intake...
Not a good design. The intake is really restricted between the hood and grill assembly- really tight. No matter what system you use I can't figure out how to improve air into system.
I'm considering drilling a a bunch of holes into the initial scoop piece. But how can you get some fresh air flow past the grill assembly? I want air that isn't coming from the engine compartment.
Not a good design. The intake is really restricted between the hood and grill assembly- really tight. No matter what system you use I can't figure out how to improve air into system.
I'm considering drilling a a bunch of holes into the initial scoop piece. But how can you get some fresh air flow past the grill assembly? I want air that isn't coming from the engine compartment.
#7
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#8
Originally Posted by Power Strokeme
Soooooo, if we just let the new air filter "lay" where the factory air box was won't vibrations rub a hole in the new filter?
Dave / Believer45
#10
Go to TYMAR WEB SITE and get the email address and phone number. Dale has too much business to actually open a web site at this time. Best bet is to call him, keeping in mind he is in Washington state for those in other time zones.
Dave / Believer45
Dave / Believer45
#11
i've been wanting to enclose my 6637 filter in something like a cake box and run a somewhat large intake tube down to one of the rectangular holes in the core support. i think this would net me a lil bit of power but havent justified the extra work for a marignally noticable power gain. however if it would lower EGT's enough it'd be worth it
-cutts-
-cutts-