cracked block
#1
#2
#3
cracked block
These cracks sound like the typical cracks found in many flathead motors and are not considered to be a problem as a rule. I assume you had the block magnafluxed which would reveal any serious cracks with special attention paid to inspecting the crankcase area and around the webs and panrails. Just to make sure when you assemble and get ready to run the motor I would add a bottle of Irontite triple action all weather seal. This stuff was recommended to me by an old machinist that has done a lot of flatheads and he swears by it. Good luck and let us know what follows.
fifty2f1
fifty2f1
#4
#5
There are so many schools of thought on this topic that it's hard to know what's right. When I had my flathead rebuilt the cracks were severe enough that the machine shop would refuse to give me any warranty on the rebuild if I had them use that block. (see picture in my gallery)
In addition to some of the suggestions above, some guys will weld them, others will "pin" them.
My suggestion is to find an old-timer and have him check your specific situation and help you make a determination on how to proceed. It would be a real shame to spend time and money rebuilding that block only to have it cause problems later on.
I ended up finding a replacement block and rebuilt it because I didn't want to take the risk.
In addition to some of the suggestions above, some guys will weld them, others will "pin" them.
My suggestion is to find an old-timer and have him check your specific situation and help you make a determination on how to proceed. It would be a real shame to spend time and money rebuilding that block only to have it cause problems later on.
I ended up finding a replacement block and rebuilt it because I didn't want to take the risk.
#6
according to Frank Oddo's book Ford Flathead V-8 Builders Handbook "Minor cracks in the deck surface can be repaired by drilling and plugging. A crack where both ends are vivible can be fixed, but there is a practical limit. Any crack that goes into a hole where its end is not visible defies repair. If there are no more than two or three cracks in each deck surface, you can consider your block a "good un."" It is common for them to crack from a water jacket to a bolt hole, I would not worry to much about it.
#7
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#8
The cracks that cause you problems (death cracks) are the ones between the valve seats and the cylinder. The water jacket to stud hole cacks can pretty much be ignored unless they are ultra-spacial. As was stated above you should be fine if you can torque the bolts to the specified loads.
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