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Did a search but couldn't narrow it down to what I am looking for.I was gathering up the stuff I need to change the oil on my Sprinter diesal van.I use Mobil 1 in it at Appox $60 worth a change.It takes 10 qts but goes 10 to 12k between changes.The mfgr has a list of approved oils for this truck and Shell Rotella T is also on the list.This stuff is quite a bit cheaper and is rated for diesals.I was wondering that since the rotella will stand up to the diesal abuse for 10 miles or so would it work in my 65 352 truck?Some one commented that they used diesal oil in their slick and that it was better but could not find the thread.What do you guys think?
Joe
Joe, Technology is a wonderful thing. I'm sure that are a hundreds comments in favor of higher priced oils. The only thing that I can say is that I have never read anywhere that DINO oil changed regularly 2-5000 miles with filter would not be good for well over 100,000 miles. Changing from lead gas to nonleaded has in itself extended the life of engines and about everything on them.
If you have the extra cash, I don't think you would go wrong using higher priced oils. I have over the last 40 years put many thousands of miles on DINO oil, mostly Havoline with no problems. One van with a 351W had about 210,000 on it when a fellow asked if it was for sale, and made an offer that I couldn't refuse. I run DINO oil in my cars and truck today. I guess I'm cheap, but if it aint broke.......
I know the Rotella T is recommended for Cam breakin as it has the zinc you want for that process. as to regular run oil ?? I'd think anything kept on top of would be ok. However my 352 is about to bark for the first time again in 40 years and I plan on staying with the Rotella T for it's lifespan. Just my 2¢
I'm toss back & forth with types and style of oil's. As stated by both previous post I use the same products mention by them. It depends on the style, life and usage of your engine in my opinion on the type of oil. I use shell Rotella in my motorcycle due to it keeps the engine alittle cooler, Havoline in my daily drivers and
Castrol GTX in my Hi-preformance engine's. I'm very impress with Rotella and I believe all oils are good; its the oil grade and the interval change / conditions that should be the concern. Just my two cent's..
From what I understand, Synthetics have a hard time picking up water, So they aren't good for anything that is going to sit for extended times between being run, or just making short trips were the motor never gets up to temp. I run Dino blood in my truck, but it can sit for months at a time before I decide to fire it up.
I've heard running on Diesel grade dino blood is better, but I haven't seen any data to back it up, just speculation and stories fo 500k mile motors. probably something too it, but I still want proof.
From what I understand, Synthetics have a hard time picking up water, So they aren't good for anything that is going to sit for extended times between being run, or just making short trips were the motor never gets up to temp. I run Dino blood in my truck, but it can sit for months at a time before I decide to fire it up.
I have seen this first hand in a two stroke application.I love to use amsoil on high performance watercraft engines.Have not had a single oil caused failure even in extreme racing conditions.The problem comes when you are going to have them set for a couple of months.The cylinders will get a coating of rus if you dont fog the motor .Using dino premix the cylinders would remain clean even without fogging.
Joe